Maximiliano Arias enjoying the high-quality snow on pitch four of Vuelta Austral. Photo by Vicente Urzúa In June, Eduardo Tapia, Vicente Urzúa, and I traveled to Huaraz with the goal of improving in mixed climbing, as we already had much expe...
Photo-topo of the route Directissima Mallorquina on the west face of Santa Cruz Chico. From June 20 to July 20, 2025, a team from the Alpinism Technical Group of the Balearic Islands (FBME, Federació Balear de Muntanyisme i Escalada) explore...
Approaching the foot of the southwest face of Urus Central. Photo by Cati Lladó Our team from the Alpinism Technical Group of the Balearic Islands (FBME, Federació Balear de Muntanyisme I Escalada) spent two months in Peru between June and Ju...
Photo-topo of Sudor Peruano on the northeast face of Huandoy Este. The descent route is shown in blue. Photo by Wilder Alva Chinchay In June 2025, Wilder Alva Chinchay (Peru) and I (Panama) established a new route on the northeast face of Hua...
Collages of Rock & Desire: Re-imagining Climbing in Red Rock, Risk in the Andes & Running into Dreams, by Joanne Urioste (Wild Turkeys Press). Memoir by the Red Rock pioneer, guidebook author, and Southwest climbing legend. Against the Wi...
Spare These Stones: A Journey Through Southern Climbing Culture. By Andrew Kornylak (Mountaineers Books). If us Southern climbers had a nickel for every time we had to explain how rich and diverse the climbing options are down here, we’d all be a...
Pay No Mind: A Memoir of Climbing, Abuse, and Survival. By Fallon Rowe (Di Angelo Publications). Turn to Stone: A Memoir. By Emily Meg Weinstein (Simon & Schuster). Climbing offers such a fount of metaphor that it’s hard to avoid turning the...
Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life. By Sonnie Trotter (Patagonia Books).“Embracing the unknown is a great way to start,” writes Sonnie Trotter in the dedication of Uplifted. In a series of stories from the fringes, infused with strong imag...
Thirty Below: The Harrowing and Heroic Story of the First All-Women's Ascent of Denali. By Cassidy Randall (Henry N. Abrams). Mountaineering Women: Climbing Through History. By Joanna Croston (Thames and Hudson). For a long time, a particular a...
Siebe Vanhee following the demanding offwidth crack on the Sudafricana Route of the east face of the Central Tower, during an unsuccessful attempt on a 24-hour free ascent. Vanhee and Tommy Caldwell returned to the Central Tower and succeeded on...
Maxi Abasto on the glacier during the ascent of Cerro Brechón. The peaks behind remained unclimbed as of late 2025. Photo by Kiff Alcocer The Cordón del Mesón, south of Lago Viedma and El Chaltén in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, and to the e...
Nathan Heald and I had the good fortune to climb the mythical Nevado Santa Cruz (6,259m, sometimes called Pukaraju), made legendary by Nicolas Jaeger’s 1978 solo ascent of the south face. From Cashapampa, we approached via the Paccharuri Valley wi...
The south side of Shkhara (5,203m). The left line shows Reborn, climbed in the winter of 2025 to the junction with the Badriashvili-Tepnadze Route (right line), the first and only winter ascent of Shkhara from the south. Photo by Archil Badriash...
Mizhirgi West (5,018m) and the new route up the southwest buttress. Photo by Alexander Lobyrev/Wikimedia Commons A Russian team comprising Ivan Koblyakov, Ivan Kuchkin, and Alexander Sokolov completed the first ascent of the southwest buttres...
Gulba with approximate lines of (1) 2023 traverse, (2) Ivasuxari Roza (2014), (3) Khachapuri (2021), (4) Amaia eta Iker (2023), and (5) Pferderennen02 (2025). Photo by Elisabeth Mayr In September 2025, Elena Barbist, Elena Prem, Hannah Rabl, ...
The Myshlyaev Route. Photo: Anna Piunova Archive Between August 7 and 14, 2024, Russian climbers Oksana Kochubey, Nadezhda Muzhikina, Olga Paducheva, and Nadezhda Pilshchikova (all from St. Petersburg) completed the first all-women’s ascent o...
Chegem Peak (4,351m) from the northeast. Photo by Sergei Leonkin The Chegem Gorge lies in the Central Caucasus of Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia. The group includes Chegem Peak (4,351m) and neighboring Dzhaylyk (4,424m), separated by Donkin Pass...
Over two days in November, Rémi Laborde, Stéphane Marigot, and Christian Ravier from France climbed Land and Freedom (630m, 6b+) on the north face of Jebel Nassrani North. The climbers followed the first five pitches of a route called Sabbah’s Hom...
The 700-meter north face of Demirkazık (3,756m), showing the approximate lines of (1) Close to Heaven (2025) and (2) Jamieson-Friend Route (1972, first ascent of the face). Photo: Federica Mingolla Collection In August, Rolando Larcher and hi...
The six members of the 1962 expedition that made the first ascent of the Southeast Spur of Denali stand in front of one of Don Sheldon’s Piper Cubs. Left to right: Hank Abrons, Chris Wren, Sam Cochrane, Boyd Everett, Sam Silverstein, and Charley...