Xue Yue Feng, climbs from the west
China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range
Xue Yue Feng (5,616m, 29°44'28.82"N, 101°50'51.87"E) is a top with low prominence on the watershed ridge immediately northeast of Reddomain (6,112m). It is believed to have been climbed first in May 2025 by the Sichuan-based mountaineering club Ridge Outdoor Team. From a high camp to the northwest at 4,900 meters, the climbers are thought to have ascended a couloir of around PD standard (60°), well to the left of the west face, then traversed to the summit.
In July, our university club from Beijing planned an ascent of Reddomain north face, but this proved impractical due to logistics and poor acclimatization. He Bingchen and I decided instead on the west face direct of Xue Yue Feng, a steep serac barrier leading to more gentle snow slopes.
Approaching from the Riwaugie Valley to the northwest, we established two camps above our base, with Camp 2 on the glacier plateau beneath the west face. The following morning, July 18, having suffered a night without sleep, we headed for the ice wall.
The bergschrund was easy and followed by a pitch of AI2. The second pitch had around ten meters of hard glacial ice at 80°, while the third pitch climbed a steep couloir between two seracs and finished on the snow slopes above.
Although climbing directly to the summit looked straightforward, the weather was deteriorating, the snow above looked avalanche prone, and continuing to the top would have meant descending in the dark, which we deemed unwise. We rappelled from Abalakovs and returned to Camp 1 that evening. We named our partial new route Edelweiss Superdirect (210m, AD AI3).
—Fang Zhan, China