Sermersoq Island, Glacier Peak, Le Sang du Cri
Greenland, South Greenland
On August 12, Virgile Devin, Fred1eric Machefert, and Arthur Jourdan from France climbed a new route up the southwest face of Glacier Peak (approx. 60°17’47.18”N, 45°16’41.12”W) in the center of Sermersoq Island (various spellings), north of Nanortalik. This summit of about 1,100 meters rises between Savtakkerne, the highest peak on the island, and the Needle.
The three found about 500 meters of climbing on excellent granite and called their route Le Sang du Cri (7a+/6b obl.). They walked off to descend.
The new line is to the right of an earlier route on the same face called La 4eme Dimension (475m, 7a), climbed in July 2022 by Clément Brillault, Maxime Gastaldi, and Théo Malzieu. These three French climbers had a very successful trip, climbing a 600-meter, 17-pitch route up the south face of Savtakkerne (La Vie en Mieux, 6a+ A1), an 11-pitch route up the southwest face of the Needle (Crakage, 6c+ A1), and several shorter routes, in addition to the line on Glacier Peak. A well-illustrated trip report (PDF) is available at the this link.
—Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information from Virgile Devin, Maxime Gastaldi, and camptocamp.org