La Pomme d’Or (350m, WI5+) on the east face of Mont de l’Equerre is the great classic among Quebec’s long ice routes. Located in the heart of Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie National Park, it stands as an essential benchmark in ice climbing, with an international recognition comparable to Polar Circus in the Rockies.

While rappelling La Pomme d’Or, I noticed the potential for a direct mixed variation to the fifth pitch: an obvious crack cutting across the wall to reach the ice 20 meters higher, just five meters from the anchor. The inspiration was instantaneous: I was convinced it would go.

A few days later, I contacted Frédéric Maltais, a highly respected climber in Quebec and the author of numerous significant first ascents in the region. If I were going to attempt this project with anyone, it had to be him.

In February 2026, we returned together to La Pomme d’Or by fat bike, heading up the Malbaie River in the dark, on one of those −25°C days. The crack sits about 280 meters above the ground, and to reach it we climbed in simul-climbing style—quickly and efficiently—to the base of the dream pitch, then got to work.

After a long, frigid day working the moves, Fred completed the first ascent on toprope, while I fell near the top, where the ice thins out. After more than four hours hanging in the harness equipping the line in biting cold (six bolts were placed), I was too exhausted to give it a proper redpoint attempt. The line was far harder than expected: marginal holds, microscopic feet, long reaches — exactly what I’d hoped for.

A week later, after visualizing every move and every placement, rested and confident, we returned to attempt the lead ascent and complete the first free ascent of our project. February 10 turned out to be a perfect day: mild, with very little wind. 

Fred, being the true friend and gentleman he is, let me take the sharp end first, placing the draws on the way up. I didn’t have high expectations of sending the redpoint, knowing I had fallen the previous week even on toprope. But being rested, focused, and calm played in my favor. I managed to link the pitch on my first go.

We named this new section La Pomme d’Adam, graded WI6 M8+/M9. What a joy it was to climb this mixed gem on such a mythical route as La Pomme d’Or. 

—Vincent Landry, Canada