Guoraka Ri, north top, north face

China, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri Group
Author: Xia Zhongming. Climb Year: 2024. Publication Year: 2026.

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The unclimbed ridge leading south to the main summit of Guoraka Ri. Photo by Guoraka Ri Expedition

Guoraka Ri (a.k.a. Guolha Kangri or Guolaka Ri, 6,548m, 28°18’36.30”N, 90°42’57.25”E) forms the end of the long ridge of high peaks that runs northeast from Kula Kangri and Karjiang. On August 29, 2024, Chen Chujun, Huang Siyuan, and Tong Zhanghao drove to the north side of the range and walked up to the foot of Guoraka Ri. 

They set off the next morning at 3 a.m., planning to climb the 1,300-meter north face in one push. This proved ambitious since, just one day before their drive to the area, Chen had been in the hospital due to respiratory problems caused by a mycoplasma infection. 

Chen’s physical state hindered the party’s performance substantially, as did a snow-covered smooth rock section between 5,800 meters and 6,000 meters, which they were forced to climb without protection. 

They eventually reached the north summit (6,454m) at 6:40 p.m. It was too late to continue along the ridge to the main top, so they turned around and endured a sitting bivouac, without sleeping bags, at around 6,200 meters. They eventually made it down to their camp below the face at 2 p.m. on August 31. The 1,300-meter route to the north top was graded D AI3 75°.

—Xia Zhongming, Luxembourg



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