Kangmi Kangri, northwest ridge and northwest face
China, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri Group
Kangmi Kangri (6,412m, 28°16’36.33”N, 90°40’23.70”E) lies immediately northeast of Karjiang across the high plateau of the upper Karaqangjing Glacier. On May 19, 2024, Chen Chujun, Huang Siyuan, and Tong Haijun drove to the valley north of the range, and by the end of the following day they had ascended the Karaqangjing Glacier to the edge of the upper plateau at 6,070 meters, where they made a bivouac northwest of the mountain.
On May 21, the trio simul-climbed the lower section of the northwest ridge of Kangmi Kangri, then moved right and onto the northwest face, which had sections of 70° snow and ice. Higher, two pitches of hard ice and a short mixed section led to the south-southwest ridge, not far below the summit, which they reached at 3:50 p.m.
The three made five or six rappels along the ascent route, then continued straight down the face. After reaching their bivouac site, they continued down to 5,300 meters, where they stopped again at 7 p.m. They graded the technical part of the 350-meter route M3 WI3 70°.
This was the second ascent of the mountain. The first had taken place on October 21, 2001, when a Dutch pair, Court Haegens and Rudolf van Aken, climbed the south-southwest ridge. During the previous month, they had attempted the northwest face, to the right of the 2024 route, retreating from above 6,200 meters when they realized they would be unable to make the summit and return before nightfall (AAJ 2002). These two named the peak Kangmi Kangri, which means Yeti Snow Mountain.
—Xia Zhongming, Luxembourg