Karjiang, Second Ascent

China, Tibet, Himalaya
Author: Xia Zhongming. Climb Year: 2024. Publication Year: 2026.

One month after the first ascent of 7,221-meter Karjiang in August 2024 (AAJ 2025), Huang Siyuan and Tong Zhanghao made the second ascent by a slightly more direct line. The two parties had independently planned attempts on the mountain at the beginning of 2024, but Liu, as a university lecturer, was forced to climb during the monsoon season, whereas as Huang and Tong, as professional mountain guides, could make their attempt during the more stable conditions of September.

Huang and Tong set up an advanced base at 5,900 meters and took one day's rest. Leaving at 3:30 a.m. on September 9, they simul-climbed to their planned bivouac site at 6,900 meters. It was only 1 p.m., but they decided to stop and set up an open bivouac, where they slept until midnight before leaving for the summit. Deep, soft snow slowed progress, but they still reached the summit just before 4 a.m., then descended the same day.

—Xia Zhongming, Luxembourg



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