Mt. Robson from the south, showing the The Great Couloir in February 2023. Photo by Alex Buisse / Mont Blanc Lines I’m so relieved to be on the other side of this project. Skiing the south face of Mt. Robson (3,959m) had been a dream for year...
Pitch four (5.10+) on Iron Tears. Photo by Gabs Clark On August 17, 2025, Gabs Clark and I set out to repeat Murder by Numbers (5.11, Ruddy-Slawinski, 2007) on the east face of the Rimwall, but on our way to the route, a striking dihedral cau...
Giacomo Meliffi climbing pitch six of L’oro dello Yukon. Photo by Dario Eynard Visiting the Cirque of the Unclimbables and climbing a new route has always been one of my dreams. Doing it together with three friends—Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eyn...
The view up the southeast side of Gilt Peak from Frodo’s Knob. Team Photo Gilt Peak (1,893m/6,211’, 53.942523, -129.222608) is deep in the Coast Mountains, within Foch-Gilttoyees Provincial Park. It’s one of the most visible mountains in the ...
Morning light on Howse Peak (3,295m), seen from high on Mt. Chephren. Photo by Nic Houser On August 4, 2024, at 4 p.m., Greg Barrett and I left Waterfowl Lakes Campground, eyes set again on the east face of Mt. Chephren (3,274m). We had prev...
Julie Beauchemin on pitch nine of Follow the Sun (520m, 5.10) on the east/southeast face of an unnamed tower 1.85 km west of Mt. Northumbria. Photo by Bruno-Pierre Couture On July 19, 2025, Julie Beauchemin, Trigg Sharp, and I hiked through a...
Ines Papert on the crux pitch of On the Wings of Maybe during the first free ascent. Photo by John Price On the Wings of Maybe (400m, 5.12+/5.13-) is an alpine rock climb on the Rimwall, a 2,680-meter summit of high-quality Palliser limestone...
In August, Cynthia Chung, Alec Cooper, Mark Hurst, and Laura Woodall climbed an eight-pitch route up east-facing slabs at the foot of Aegir Peak, behind the Ulu emergency shelter in the Weasel River Valley: Aegir Sanction (400m, 5.8 R A0). Details...
The new route Folia do Divino on the north face of Pedra Riscada. Photo by Ed Padilha On August 16, 2025, Willian Lacerda, Valdesir Machado, Elcio Muliki, and I departed from Curitiba, in the Brazilian state of Paraná, bound for Minas Gerais,...
Mark Elton Photo-topo of Regicide, the first route up the east face of Pic Dondy in the Andringitra Massif. Photo by Mark Elton In October, Mark Elton (USA), Thibau Grandjean (France), and I (USA) established Regicide, a 12-pitch route on th...
The White Ladder: Triumph and Tragedy at the Dawn of Mountaineering. By Daniel Light (W.W. Norton). Over the years, I’ve enjoyed many of the original mountaineering stories written by the explorers and athletes. I’ve also been drawn to accounts b...
Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest. By Melissa Arnot Reid (Crown). Ten years ago, Melissa Arnot Reid, a Rainier guide who’d clocked over 100 ascents of that peak as well as five previous Everest summits, became the first America...
The new route Brasiliana (1,000m, 8a+), on the east face of Pedra Riscada. The route is now the leftmost of four lines in this sector. Photo by Rafael Gomes In early August 2025, our team of Brazilian climbers—Felipe Alvares, Vitor Barbosa, G...
In September 2025, climbers Chris Deuto (USA), Ben Sotero (Brazil), Andre “Zóio” Junior (Brazil), and Dan Teitelbaum (USA) made the first free ascent of A Resistência (750m, 8a+) on Pedra da Fortaleza, a 965-meter monolith in the state of Espírito...
Emil Stefani ascending the couloir on the west side of Cerro Socavones. Photo by Agustín Ferrer On September 18, Hernán López, José Vial, and I—all members of the Club Andino Universitario—left for Cerro Socavones (3,772m, -34.4279, -70.2609...
On the summit in superb weather. Left to right: Paloma Farkas, Catalina Unwin, and Angelina Di Prinzio. Photo by Angie Di Prinzio Our expedition began as an improbable idea. Angelina Di Prinzio (Argentina), Catalina Unwin (Chile), and I were ...
Lenore Sparks leading the eighth pitch of the 400-meter Tsofa Dombo, on Karambony. Photo by Jan Novak Say “tsofa dombo” to any Bara person native to the Tsaranoro Valley, and you will most certainly get a laugh. The phrase translates to “the ...
Photo-topo of the new route Famadihana on Madagascar’s Mitsinjoarivo. Photo by Hayden Jamieson In September 2025, Cedar Christensen (USA), Luan Gäumann (Switzerland), Will Sharp (USA), and I spent 25 days in Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley, aim...
Photo-topo of Doble Funge on the east face of Cunduvile at Cumbira Segundo. Photo by Bosco Bonilla A perfect mix of adventure, African culture, huge walls for opening new routes, and the social component of the Climb Angola project had kept A...
The new route Terra da Ginguba on Kaikiawila dome. Photo by Manu Ponce After an expedition to Angola in 2024 (AAJ 2025), we knew the best was yet to come and that we wouldn’t be long in returning. Without much effort, we assembled a team of s...