The last few meters on Cerro Socavones. Photo by Agustín Ferrer On September 18, Hernán López, José Vial, and I—all members of the Club Andino Universitario—left for Cerro Socavones (3,772m, -34.4279, -70.2609), 100 kilometers southeast of Sa...
The only workable bivy ledge the team could find for the night at 3,000 meters. Photo by Paloma Farkas Our expedition began as an improbable idea. Angelina Di Prinzio (Argentina), Catalina Unwin (Chile), and I were three friends living in dif...
The south side of Shkhara with the lines of (1) Reborn, climbed in the winter of 2025 to the junction with (2) the Badriashvili-Tepnadze Route, the first and only winter ascent of Shkhara from the south. Photo by Archil Badriashvili Rising al...
Mizhirgi West (5,018m) and the new route up the southwest buttress. Photo by Alexander Lobyrev/Wikimedia Commons A Russian team comprising Ivan Koblyakov, Ivan Kuchkin, and Alexander Sokolov completed the first ascent of the southwest buttres...
Gulba with approximate route lines. Photo by Elisabeth Mayr In September 2025, Elena Barbist, Elena Prem, Hannah Rabl, Jana Scheiring, and I, along with team leader Babsi Vigl, traveled to Georgia for the final expedition of the Austrian Natu...
The Myshlyaev Route. Photo: Anna Piunova Archive Between August 7 and 14, 2024, Russian climbers Oksana Kochubey, Nadezhda Muzhikina, Olga Paducheva, and Nadezhda Pilshchikova (all from St. Petersburg) completed the first all-women’s ascent o...
Chegem Peak (4,351m) from the northeast. Photo by Sergei Leonkin The Chegem Gorge lies in the Central Caucasus of Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia. The group includes Chegem Peak (4,351m) and neighboring Dzhaylyk (4,424m), separated by Donkin Pass...
Over two days in November, Rémi Laborde, Stéphane Marigot, and Christian Ravier from France climbed Land and Freedom (630m, 6b+) on the north face of Jebel Nassrani North. The climbers followed the first five pitches of a route called Sabbah’s Hom...
The 700-meter north face of Demirkazık (3,756m), showing the approximate lines of (1) Close to Heaven (2025) and (2) Jamieson-Friend Route (1972, first ascent of the face). Photo: Federica Mingolla Collection In August, Rolando Larcher and hi...
The six members of the 1962 expedition that made the first ascent of the Southeast Spur of Denali stand in front of one of Don Sheldon’s Piper Cubs. Left to right: Hank Abrons, Chris Wren, Sam Cochrane, Boyd Everett, Sam Silverstein, Charley Hol...
Scoping potential lines on Kangeq Island from the yacht Civetta. Photo by Martin Krasňanský The idea to climb in the Upernavik area originated with Dodo’s Delight, a 2016 film featuring climbs above the Arctic Circle, accessed by sailboat. Di...
Titan II rises 1,736 meters above Kangikitsoq Fjord. Rafale (1,200m, 7a) on the southwest face is shown. Titan I (1,811m) is just to the left. Photo by Luca Rosales In July 2025, we—Luca Rosales and Marco Dattolo, both of Grenoble, France—est...
The line of Big Kumura (1,300m, 5.10+ C2 R) on the northwest face of Ulamertorssuaq. All prior routes climbed the big pillar and spire-topped face to the left. Photo by New Zealand Alpine Team Six members of the New Zealand Alpine Team made a...
Melanie Tenorio leading a pitch of Geraldine (740m, 6c A1), one of two parallel routes climbed on the south-facing Caval’ou Wall, above Mørkesund. Photo by Ramona Waldner On July 20, the all-woman team of Naomie Bürki, Pauline Laubscher, Gian...
Haulbag zipline trickery after the “loop” pitch on Simon’s Route (868m, 16 pitches, E3 6a/A1). Photo by Ben Kent Robbie Milne, a 22-year-old ski instructor from France, and I, a 26-year-old climber from England’s Lake District, touched down ...
The unclimbed north face of Jungmai Xuewai Kangri seen from Rutog.Photo by Zhou Taozhu In August 2024, I made the first recorded ascent of Lochari (6,090m, 33°16’51.03”N, 79°48’11.91”E) from the north. This peak is located in the Gangdise Ran...
In the side valley east of the Riwaugie Valley, with (X) marking Xue Yue Feng. Photo by Fang Zhan Xue Yue Feng (5,616m, 29°44'28.82"N, 101°50'51.87"E) is a top with low prominence on the watershed ridge immediately northeast of Reddomain (6,1...
Seen from the west, (A) Peak 5,700m (a.k.a. Long Gorge), (B) Siguniang North (5,900m), and (C) Siguniang (6,250m). Marked is the 2024 ascent of the north ridge. Photo by Zhang Qingwei/Zhou Song The north ridge of Siguniang (6,250m), the high...
Following his first ascents in 2024 of Chuchepo and Jiongmudzhi, Tong Haijun returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha in 2025 with Huang Siyuan. Their goal was unclimbed Sendho (6,620m, PLA map; GPS measurement 6,643m, 30°18'29.61"N, 93°32'20.94"E), a lit...
On the north spur of Minya Konka during the 2024 ascent. Photo by Minya Konka Expedition In October 2018, Li Zongli and Tong Haijun made an alpine-style ascent of Minya Konka (Gongga Shan, 7,556m), climbing a new route up the north spur and n...