A Russian team comprising Ivan Koblyakov, Ivan Kuchkin, and Alexander Sokolov completed the first ascent of the southwest buttress of Mizhirgi West (5,018m, 43.04417N, 43.14836E), between Pushkin Peak and Mizhirgi East in the Bezengi region. All previous ascents on Mizhirgi West followed the classic south and west ridges, first climbed in the 1930s. The southwest buttress is the only entirely rock route on a 5,000-meter peak in the Bezengi mountains.

After acclimatization carries to Jangi Kosh Base Camp (3,200m) and Camp 1 on the Sella Glacier (ca 4,000m), they started climbing at 8 a.m. on August 16. The lower section featured steep corners, compact slabs, and sections of loose rock that required careful climbing. Protection was generally good, and the entire route was climbed free. A narrow ledge high on the buttress offered the only viable bivouac site. Anticipating no water sources on the wall, the team had carried all their supplies.

On August 17, the trio followed a mixed rib toward the summit. Snow lay along the north side of the rib, though most of the climbing stayed on rock. On the summit tower, they moved around to the southeast side, avoiding an ice couloir by climbing rock to the right. They reached the top at 5 p.m. Their route was 27 pitches, with difficulties reaching French 6a+ in short sections.

To descend, the climbers rappelled directly down the ice couloir, then moved back onto the southwest face and continued down their line of ascent, installing rappel anchors as needed. They returned to the bivouac around midnight, then completed the descent on August 18, reaching Jangi Kosh that evening. 

—Anna Piunova, AAJ, with information from Ivan Koblyakov, Russia