In September 2024, after two weeks of work, Christian Cattell, Camden Clements, Kevin Crum, and John Greer completed a long free route on the upper southeast face of Tehipite Dome in Kings Canyon National Park. There and Back Again (1,800’, 12 pit...
Zach Lovell leading a 5.10 corner on The Crockerdile Tooth. Photo: Chris Robertson In early August, Chris Robertson and I hiked into the McGee Creek drainage and were immediately enamored with the vertical maze on Mt. Crocker’s north pillar. ...
In the summer of 2025, on July 13, Derek Field and I completed the first ascent of Giselle’s Big Advencha (1,200’, 5.10+) on the north pillar of Mt. Crocker, adding a high-quality route to this sheer buttress rarely visited by climbers. Giselle’s...
Peak 6,420m (27°49'0.87"N, 86°53'23.70"E) lies in the southeast corner of the Mingbo Valley (a.k.a. Nare Glacier) on the ridge 2.5 kilometers east-northeast of Malanphulan. Its complete climbing history is unclear, but it is known that, in 2015, S...
Pharilapcha from the southeast with (1) Stone(d) Yeti (2025), and (2) The Oracle Night (2006). Photo by Patrick Perry Johnson After six weeks in the Khumbu, having been shut down on various peaks due to heavy snowfall, Erik Gomez and I set ou...
In September and October 2001, the prolific Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi made reconnaissance treks in several of the mountain groups of West Mustang. In early October, he was camped near Ghar Gompa and the village of Lo Gekar, hoping to find ...
Arriving at base camp (4,900m) at the start of the Chhuama Valley. (C) marks the summit of Chhuama III. The summits of Chhuamas I and II are hidden beyond the ridge at right. Photo: Korean Chhuama III Expedition Chhuama III (official height 6...
High camp to the east of the Chhuama group. The highest point visible in the center of the picture is Chhuama II. The peak catching the sun on the far right lies in Tibet. Photo: Seven Summits Treks Chhuama I (6,366m, 29°18'38.30"N, 83°51'40....
Kanjiralwa from the southwest. (1) The 1991 French-Spanish route on the northwest face to southwest ridge. (2) Approximate line of the finish to the 1973 Japanese route up the long south ridge (marked in red). (3) The 2016 Nepalese route up the ...
Although the 1974 expedition from Yamagata University in Japan to West Nepal was widely covered at the time (including briefly in the AAJ), recent communication with journalist Tatsuhiko Yoshizawa has shown this team did not climb a new route up K...
After consultation with Janusz Majer, who informed us that most peaks in the area were unclimbed and there was huge potential for new lines, Michał Nowicki, Maks Parys, Matej Prcin, Marco Schwidergall, and I (all Polish except for Prcin, who is Sl...
In June, I experienced one of the defining moments of my climbing life: opening a new line, in alpine style, on Spantik (7,027m). For a child from the Hunza Valley, Spantik is not only a majestic mountain but also a source of inspiration and the p...
In 2024, Boris Langenstein and I attempted the first ski descent of Nanga Parbat from its 8,125-meter summit by the south-southeast or Rupal side. We climbed the Schell Route (1976) but stopped at 7,524 meters due to poor weather and snow conditio...
Between August 18 and September 15, Jacek Czech, Przemyslaw Pawlikowski, and I, from the Tatra Volunteer Search and Rescue Team (TOPR), visited the Karakoram with financial help from the Kukuczka Foundation. Our goal was the unclimbed southeast fa...
Yudai Suzuki, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I arrived in Lachit village just four days after leaving Japan. We trekked north and established base camp on the Lachit Glacier at 4,200 meters, then spent much time in reconnaissance and acclimatization. De...
At the start of July, after completing the necessary logistics in Skardu, Joseba Iztueta, Ekaitz Maiz, Ibon Mendia, and I drove in a 4x4 to the Hushe Valley. By this time, several of us were struggling with severe stomach issues, and I personally ...
Six months after Barbara “Babsi” Zangerl completed a first-try, no-falls ascent of Free Rider (VI 5.13a)—the first flash of any of El Cap’s main wall routes (see AAJ 2025)—Will Moss flashed Free Rider in a single day. Moss, age 20 at the time, had...
The north face of North Peak (12,248’) in the Sierra Nevada, showing: (left) North Couloir, the classic ice climb on the face; (center) White Noise (800’, Steep snow, M4); and (right) Far Right Extremist (600’, Steep snow, M2). Other routes are ...
Between August 18 and September 15, 2025, Jacek Czech, Przemyslaw Pawlikowski, and I, from the Tatra Volunteer Search and Rescue Team (TOPR), visited the Karakoram with financial help from the Kukuczka Foundation. Our goal was the unclimbed southe...
View to the northeast from an intermediate camp (ca 5,600m) on the Biarchedi South Glacier, with (A) Serac Peak (6,710m), (B) Biarchedi I (6,810m), and (C) Biarchedi IV (6,690m). The attempted route to Biarchedi I climbed the glaciated slope dir...