Peak 6,420m, North-Northeast Ridge
Nepal, Mahalangur Himal, Khumbu Section
Peak 6,420m (27°49'0.87"N, 86°53'23.70"E) lies in the southeast corner of the Mingbo Valley (a.k.a. Nare Glacier) on the ridge 2.5 kilometers east-northeast of Malanphulan. Its complete climbing history is unclear, but it is known that, in 2015, Spanish climbers Jorge Martinez and Angel Salamanca started up the north face, below large seracs, then slanted left to gain the north-northeast ridge, which they followed to the summit. In descent, they followed the north-northeast ridge all the way into the notch before Peak 5,985m, then reached the west flank of the latter and made three rappels to the glacier below (AAJ 2016).
In October, guide Matthias Holzer and Jonas Gingele (both Austrian), after first climbing Ama Dablam, set up a camp at 5,600 meters on the glacier north of Peak 6,420m. On the October 21, they crossed the glacier and climbed 50° soft snow to the 5,900-meter notch between Peak 5,985m and Peak 6,420m, at the start of the north-northeast ridge. After spending a night in the notch, they left at 5 a.m. on the 22nd and climbed the ridge to the summit of Peak 6,420m, crossing a few sections of around 70° at 6,200 meters. They returned to their tent at 4 p.m. and descended to base camp the following day.
—Lindsay Griffin, AAJ, with information from Billi Bierling and the Himalayan Database