Peak ca 6,280m, historical first ascent, via south face

Nepal, Mustang Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2001. Publication Year: 2026.

In September and October 2001, the prolific Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi made reconnaissance treks in several of the mountain groups of West Mustang. In early October, he was camped near Ghar Gompa and the village of Lo Gekar, hoping to find a way to access the unclimbed Araniko Chuli (6,034m) on the border with Tibet. On this occasion he failed (though he would return the following year and successfully reach the summit), so instead his expedition turned to a group of unexplored, generally rounded snow and scree peaks to the south, less than 20 kilometers west-southwest of Lo Manthang.

Approaching from Ghar Gompa, the expedition—eight Japanese members, sirdar Ang Purba, and three climbing Sherpas—established a camp at 4,733 meters (29°7'15.85"N, 83°51'23.01"E), a little north of Dhakmar Valley. From there, they climbed to the 5,489-meter shoulder on a ridge to the northwest, as designated on the then newly published HMG-Finn map. To the west, they could see an attractive pointed summit over 6,200 meters. They continued north, up a broad valley covered with shale that resembled roofing slates, and after a long walk reached a 5,950-meter col (29°8'23.04"N, 83°48'40.61"E) a little to the west of Peak 6,010m. Returning to the Dhakmar Valley, they spent the night at a high camp (5,581m).

The next morning, October 7, the team moved northwest to reach a small glacier at 5,720 meters, and from there to the Dhau Dhundhun Tal, a lake at 5,905 meters where they had lunch. In the afternoon, they carefully climbed a crumbling rock ridge on the west side of the lake, then traversed below the snowy south face of the attractive pointed peak seen the previous day. Katsuhiko Asahi, Koji Mizutani, Ohnishi, Takehiko Yanagihara, and climbing Sherpas Chuldin Nuru, Kancha Dawa, and Mingma Nuru proceeded to climb this face in seven moderate pitches.

The summit lies at 29°8'27.78"N, 83°46'49.68"E, and the team estimated the height as 6,280 meters (around 6,287m on Google Earth). The descended the long east ridge to arrive at the 5,950-meter col reached the previous day and returned to high camp. After resting the following day, they returned to Lo Gekar on the October 9.

—Lindsay Griffin, AAJ, with information from Rodolphe Popier, The Himalayan Database, and the Himalayan Journal