Chhuama III, first ascent of a southeasterly top, via the east face
Nepal, Mustang Himal
Chhuama III (official height 6,262m, map height 6,268m, 29°17'50.16"N, 83°50'51.28"E) is situated on the Nepal-Tibet border northwest of Lo Manthang. Chhuamas I to IV were included in the 57 new peaks officially opened for climbing by the Nepal government in January 2025, as part of a widespread tourist development plan (AAJ 2025).
A Korean expedition comprising Kim Dong-jin, Kim Hyon-chul, and Oh Nam-yong arrived in Nepal in October and employed the Kathmandu agency Trekking Camp, which recommended Chhuama Peak III as a suitable objective. The Korean climbers were joined by two guides, Dawa Phurten Bhote and Mingmar Sherpa.
For acclimatization, the group initially travelled to the Thorong La (5,416m) before proceeding by Jeep to Lo Manthang (3,840m) on October 20. Although a road now connects Lo Manthang with the village of Nhichung (3,951m), near Nyamdo to the north, the team decided to trek, taking four hours to reach this village. The next day, they continued trekking northwest alongside the Kali Gandaki River to its source, where they established base camp at 4,900 meters, three hours above Nhichung. The valley above, which runs west toward Mustang Himal, is sometimes referred to as the Chhuama Valley.
Team members then moved west up this valley and on October 26 established a high camp at 5,480 meters, four hours’ walk above base and close to the entrance to a valley that rises north, then west, toward the east flank of Chhuama III. On the 27th, Dawa Phurten and Mingmar fixed 400 meters of rope on the east face’s snow slopes, then a storm moved in and everyone was forced down to base camp.
On November 1, the entire team regained high camp and left the following morning at 2 a.m., moving slowly through deep snow. They ascended the center of the east face, then continued up left to finish on a southeasterly top at 29°17'40.54"N, 83°51'0.20"E, where their GPS measured 6,211 meters. This is a snowy top with a few scattered flat boulders. Kim Dong-jin and the two guides arrived at 12:10 p.m., and the remaining team members joined them at 12:50 p.m. They did not continue to the main summit.
—Oh Young-hoon, Korea