Chhuama I, first ascent, via east-northeast ridge from Chhuama II

Nepal, Mustang Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2025. Publication Year: 2026.

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High camp to the east of the Chhuama group. The highest point visible in the center of the picture is Chhuama II. The peak catching the sun on the far right lies in Tibet. Photo: Seven Summits Treks

Chhuama I (6,366m, 29°18'38.30"N, 83°51'40.10"E) and Chhuama II (6,325m, 29°18'44.49"N, 83°52'16.17"E) are two of the 57 peaks opened for climbing by the Nepal government in January 2025, as part of a widespread tourist development plan (AAJ 2025). Chhuama I had no documented ascent, but Chhuama II was summited in 2018 by a Swiss commercial expedition that climbed the southeast face and northeast ridge.

Both peaks lie on the Nepal-Tibet frontier, and in December 2025, Ashish Gurung, Jenjen Lama, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, sponsored by Seven Summit Treks, took the road from Lo Manthang toward the border post at the Kora La before trekking west to a base camp. From there, they moved to a high camp up the valley at 5,300 meters.

Early the following morning, December 21, they climbed the straightforward southeast face and northeast ridge of Chhuama II, in good firm snow, arriving at the top at 8:45 a.m. They continued down the sharp, snowy, west-southwest ridge to the col before Chhuama I, from which an unstable, blocky granite crest led to the top of Chhuama I, which they reached at around 11 a.m.

From there, the three reported descending the south ridge, also rocky, and so back to their high camp. While the team agreed that II would be eminently suitable as a trekking peak, Chhuama I was not, being a much longer climb over very poor rock.

According to Seven Summits Treks, the first winter ascents of Chhuama I and II highlighted its growing focus on exploratory alpine style mountaineering, respect for minimal impact in its climbing ethics, and the sustainable exploration of Nepal's lesser-known peaks.

—Lindsay Griffin, AAJ



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