The unclimbed ridge leading south to the main summit of Guoraka Ri. Photo by Guoraka Ri Expedition Guoraka Ri (a.k.a. Guolha Kangri or Guolaka Ri, 6,548m, 28°18’36.30”N, 90°42’57.25”E) forms the end of the long ridge of high peaks that runs n...
Grad Kristalov on Peak 5,600m seen from the north above the Garmunei Gou. Photo by Luka Lindič China offers some of the greatest potential for first ascents anywhere in the world. The extent of its mountain ranges is difficult to comprehend, ...
An aerial view to the east over the Fork Bear Glacier complex, showing the 2025 team's exploration of the area. Photo by Tom Harding In April 2025, a four-person team made up of Leanne Dyke, James Hoyes, Ben James, and I flew into the settle...
One month after the first ascent of 7,221-meter Karjiang in August 2024 (AAJ 2025), Huang Siyuan and Tong Zhanghao made the second ascent by a slightly more direct line. The two parties had independently planned attempts on the mountain at the beg...
In recent years, a number of young Chinese alpinists, having learned their craft in Sichuan and put up new routes in their home mountains, are extending their vision to the less explored regions of Tibet. Because of the development of extensive in...
The line of Lemnos in the Clouds on the headwall of the northwest buttress of Eglinton Tower. Photo by Kelly Turner From June 6 to July 15, our all-female+ team of four—Natalie Afonina, Shira Biner, Heather Smallpage, and I—set out on a 42-da...
The circle marks the location of La Pomme d’Adam, a one-pitch variation to the mega-classic La Pomme d’Or. Photo by Vincent Landry La Pomme d’Or (350m, WI5+) on the east face of Mont de l’Equerre is the great classic among Quebec’s long ice r...
Mont de l’Équerre with the giant ice route of La Pomme d’Or and the 13-pitch line of Les Chercheurs d’Or. Photo by Patrick Brouillard Patrick Brouillard is a regular in the Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie National Park and has established...
Kylus Hart starting the quest up the headwall of Sikunga Express. Photo by Erik Boomer “How cold is it going to be?” I asked Erik Boomer. “Hmm, hard to say—definitely won’t be hot.” Over the course of 30 days, from April 30 to May 28, we had...
The summit tower of Freya Peak, showing the technical final stretch of Celine’s Boot Camp on the northwest face. Photo by Pachi Ibarra In mid-July 2025, I set out with Chilean climbers María Paz “Pachi” Ibarra and Violeta Sepúlveda on a month...
At the end of July, a team of four from Scotland’s University of Stirling—Rosie Aldridge, Dylan Coker, Megan Cumming, and Benjamin Toole—established a base camp on the north shore of Rodin Bay in Sermiligaaq Fjord (66.084906, -36.600279) and spent...
On August 12, Virgile Devin, Fred1eric Machefert, and Arthur Jourdan from France climbed a new route up the southwest face of Glacier Peak (approx. 60°17’47.18”N, 45°16’41.12”W) in the center of Sermersoq Island (various spellings), north of Nanor...
In the summer of 2025, Chase Leary and Andy Puhvel made more than a dozen trips to the east face of Mt. Goode (13,085’) to complete a route started seven years earlier by Leary, Jason Lakey, and Sarah Land. The result was The Goode, the Grateful, ...
Lost and Found (1,500’, 5.5 M4) on the north face of Mt. Emerson (13,210’). The route starts to the right of the classic North Couloir (Clyde, 1926), which the Lost and Found team descended. Photo by Mike McLaughlin As with many great faces i...
The steep upper reaches of the Candlestick’s west face. The first ascent route is not visibile but is near the left skyline. Photo by Daniel Jeffcoach In my years of exploring the Great Western Divide and Monarch Divide in the Sierra Nevada, ...
Zach Lovell on one of the crux 5.10a pitches on Shits and Glitters, near the summit of Four Gables. Photo by Sara Green “Zach, we already thought of a name,” said my fiancée, Syd Knadler, as she manteled onto the summit plateau of Four Ga...
Jake Whisenant onsighting the 5.11c Glass Elevator roof, the third pitch of Wonka’s Way (7 pitches, 5.11c) on Hershey’s Kiss. Photo by Leo Franch Over the long Fourth of July weekend, Matt Allen and I made the soul-crushing trek over Taboose ...
Japhy Dhungana on the 5.13a crux pitch of Dr. Bear Love Free (800’, 4 pitches, 5.13a), on the north buttress of Merriam Peak, Granite Park area, Sierra Nevada, California. Photo by Zach Lovell Sometimes you don’t have to pick between quality ...
Approximate route line on the northwest headwall of Castle Mountain. Photo by Greg Barrett The striking northwest headwall of Castle Mountain jumps out in the setting sun while you’re driving south on Highway 1. I texted my extremely dialed f...
The line of Time (24 pitches, VI 5.10 A2) on the west-facing Red Alert Wall. Photo by Cameron Jackson Since first learning about the Daniels River Valley (DRV) and Red Alert Wall (50.37517, -124.35519), I’ve spent countless hours on CalTopo,...