Shawa Kangri (5,728m) with the line of Less Is More on the northwest face. Photo by Matteo De Zaiacomo This year didn’t start well. I fractured two cervical vertebrae in an ice climbing accident, and doctors were not optimistic about a speedy...
On the 400-meter headwall of Khang Chan Chemno during the first ascent. Photo by Dutch Expedition Academy The Expedition Academy of the Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Association (NKBV) is a two-year program that trains already profi...
Hector Sanmiguel on the summit ridge of Peak 5,660m on the eastern rim of the Denyai Tokpo. Peaks on the far right are at the head of the glacier and are mostly unclimbed. Photo by Alberto Urtasun Alpinism, unpackaged and unpolished. Two frie...
Inayat Ullah Bhat and Laway Mudasir at base camp by Novsar Lake. Photo by Inayat Ullah Bhat The Pir Panjal Range of the Lesser Himalaya lies south and west of Srinagar and the Vale of Kashmir, which separates it from the Greater Himalaya. The...
Alex Hansen on the snow arête of the southwest ridge during the first ascent of Changla Khang West. Photo by Benny Lieber Alex Hansen and I arrived in Kathmandu in early October with the dream of going on a big adventure in an area we had not...
The northwest face of Shershon and the 2025 direct route. In October, a small group of climbers reconnoitered the area around Makalu Base Camp to acclimatize while gauging snow and ice conditions created by heavy late-monsoon precipitation. ...
High on Sharphu VI during the first ascent, via the east flank. Photo by Xtreme Climbers On March 25, a team from the company Xtreme Climbers made the first ascent of Sharphu VI (6,076m, 27°46’26.82”N, 87°55’21.81”E), the most northerly in th...
The route up the southwest ridge of Pathibhara Southeast. Photo by Xtreme Climbers After their success on Sharphu VI in March, Hernán Leal (Chile) and Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa joined Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa, Kunga Gyaju Sherpa, and Pema Tasi Taman...
Matic Primožič on the lower section of the northwest face of Kwangde Nup. Photo by Urh Primožič Matic Primožič and I (Urh Primožič, no relation) arrived in Nepal on September 20 to find completely dry conditions. We based ourselves in the Val...
The northeast ridge of Bijora Hiunchuli, leading directly to the summit. Photo by Bijora Hiunchuli Expedition The Himalayan Camp is an initiative to pass the Japanese Alpine Club’s strong mountaineering culture to future generations. Young a...
In September 2024, after two weeks of work, Christian Cattell, Camden Clements, Kevin Crum, and John Greer completed a long free route on the upper southeast face of Tehipite Dome in Kings Canyon National Park. There and Back Again (1,800’, 12 pit...
Zach Lovell leading a 5.10 corner on The Crockerdile Tooth. Photo: Chris Robertson In early August, Chris Robertson and I hiked into the McGee Creek drainage and were immediately enamored with the vertical maze on Mt. Crocker’s north pillar. ...
In the summer of 2025, on July 13, Derek Field and I completed the first ascent of Giselle’s Big Advencha (1,200’, 5.10+) on the north pillar of Mt. Crocker, adding a high-quality route to this sheer buttress rarely visited by climbers. Giselle’s...
Peak 6,420m (27°49'0.87"N, 86°53'23.70"E) lies in the southeast corner of the Mingbo Valley (a.k.a. Nare Glacier) on the ridge 2.5 kilometers east-northeast of Malanphulan. Its complete climbing history is unclear, but it is known that, in 2015, S...
Pharilapcha from the southeast with (1) Stone(d) Yeti (2025), and (2) The Oracle Night (2006). Photo by Patrick Perry Johnson After six weeks in the Khumbu, having been shut down on various peaks due to heavy snowfall, Erik Gomez and I set ou...
In September and October 2001, the prolific Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi made reconnaissance treks in several of the mountain groups of West Mustang. In early October, he was camped near Ghar Gompa and the village of Lo Gekar, hoping to find ...
Arriving at base camp (4,900m) at the start of the Chhuama Valley. (C) marks the summit of Chhuama III. The summits of Chhuamas I and II are hidden beyond the ridge at right. Photo: Korean Chhuama III Expedition Chhuama III (official height 6...
High camp to the east of the Chhuama group. The highest point visible in the center of the picture is Chhuama II. The peak catching the sun on the far right lies in Tibet. Photo: Seven Summits Treks Chhuama I (6,366m, 29°18'38.30"N, 83°51'40....
Kanjiralwa from the southwest. (1) The 1991 French-Spanish route on the northwest face to southwest ridge. (2) Approximate line of the finish to the 1973 Japanese route up the long south ridge (marked in red). (3) The 2016 Nepalese route up the ...
Although the 1974 expedition from Yamagata University in Japan to West Nepal was widely covered at the time (including briefly in the AAJ), recent communication with journalist Tatsuhiko Yoshizawa has shown this team did not climb a new route up K...