On March 25, a team from the company Xtreme Climbers made the first ascent of Sharphu VI (6,076m, 27°46’26.82”N, 87°55’21.81”E), the most northerly in the main chain of Sharphu peaks. The only known previous attempt on this summit had been made in the fall of 2023 (AAJ 2024), when Japanese climbers tried the northwest ridge.

Hernán Leal (Chile), Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Ngada Sherpa, and Purnima Shrestha (all from Nepal) set up base camp in the Nupchu Valley, northwest of Kambachen, at around 4,600 meters.  After several days of acclimatization, they made three rotations to an intermediary camp at 5,250 meters and Camp 1 at around 5,500 meters, just below the start of the steep, convoluted glacier on the mountain’s east flank. 

On March 23, they left base camp and spent nights at both camps. On the 25th, they slanted southwest across the broken glacial slopes, overcoming steep ice pitches, to finish up the northeast face and final section of the northwest ridge of Sharphu VI.

—Lindsay Griffin, AAJ, with information from Pemba Sherpa, Xtreme Climbers, Nepal, and Rodolphe Popier, Himalayan Database