Scoping potential lines on Kangeq Island from the yacht Civetta. Photo by Martin Krasňanský The idea to climb in the Upernavik area originated with Dodo’s Delight, a 2016 film featuring climbs above the Arctic Circle, accessed by sailboat. Di...
Titan II rises 1,736 meters above Kangikitsoq Fjord. Rafale (1,200m, 7a) on the southwest face is shown. Titan I (1,811m) is just to the left. Photo by Luca Rosales In July 2025, we—Luca Rosales and Marco Dattolo, both of Grenoble, France—est...
The line of Big Kumura (1,300m, 5.10+ C2 R) on the northwest face of Ulamertorssuaq. All prior routes climbed the big pillar and spire-topped face to the left. Photo by New Zealand Alpine Team Six members of the New Zealand Alpine Team made a...
Melanie Tenorio leading a pitch of Geraldine (740m, 6c A1), one of two parallel routes climbed on the south-facing Caval’ou Wall, above Mørkesund. Photo by Ramona Waldner On July 20, the all-woman team of Naomie Bürki, Pauline Laubscher, Gian...
Haulbag zipline trickery after the “loop” pitch on Simon’s Route (868m, 16 pitches, E3 6a/A1). Photo by Ben Kent Robbie Milne, a 22-year-old ski instructor from France, and I, a 26-year-old climber from England’s Lake District, touched down ...
The unclimbed north face of Junmai Xuewai Kangri seen from Rutog.Photo by Taozhu Zhou In August 2024, I made the first recorded ascent of Lochari (6,090m, 33°16’51.03”N, 79°48’11.91”E) from the north. This peak is located in the Gangdise Rang...
In the side valley east of the Riwaugie Valley, with (X) marking Xue Yue Feng. Photo by Fang Zhan Xue Yue Feng (5,616m, 29°44'28.82"N, 101°50'51.87"E) is a top with low prominence on the watershed ridge immediately northeast of Reddomain (6,1...
Seen from the west, (A) Peak 5,700m (a.k.a. Long Gorge), (B) Siguniang North (5,900m), and (C) Siguniang (6,250m). Marked is the 2024 ascent of the north ridge. Photo by Zhang Qingwei/Zhou Song The north ridge of Siguniang (6,250m), the high...
Following his first ascents in 2024 of Chuchepo and Jiongmudzhi, Tong Haijun returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha in 2025 with Huang Siyuan. Their goal was unclimbed Sendho (6,620m, PLA map; GPS measurement 6,643m, 30°18'29.61"N, 93°32'20.94"E), a lit...
On the north spur of Minya Konka during the 2024 ascent. Photo by Minya Konka Expedition In October 2018, Li Zongli and Tong Haijun made an alpine-style ascent of Minya Konka (Gongga Shan, 7,556m), climbing a new route up the north spur and n...
The north face of Lotus Flower Mountain with the two bivouacs made during the ascent. Photo by Xiang Shuxiang/Wang Kun The Lotus Flower Mountain Group, which lies a little over 20 kilometers due north of Kangding in the Garze Tibetan Autonomo...
Climbers on the summit of Kangmi Kangri. Photo by Kangmi Kangri Expedition Kangmi Kangri (6,412m, 28°16’36.33”N, 90°40’23.70”E) lies immediately northeast of Karjiang across the high plateau of the upper Karaqangjing Glacier. On May 19, 2024...
The unclimbed ridge leading south to the main summit of Guoraka Ri. Photo by Guoraka Ri Expedition Guoraka Ri (a.k.a. Guolha Kangri or Guolaka Ri, 6,548m, 28°18’36.30”N, 90°42’57.25”E) forms the end of the long ridge of high peaks that runs n...
Grad Kristalov on Peak 5,600m seen from the north above the Garmunei Gou. Photo by Luka Lindič China offers some of the greatest potential for first ascents anywhere in the world. The extent of its mountain ranges is difficult to comprehend, ...
An aerial view to the east over the Fork Bear Glacier complex, showing the 2025 team's exploration of the area. Photo by Tom Harding In April 2025, a four-person team made up of Leanne Dyke, James Hoyes, Ben James, and I flew into the settle...
One month after the first ascent of 7,221-meter Karjiang in August 2024 (AAJ 2025), Huang Siyuan and Tong Zhanghao made the second ascent by a slightly more direct line. The two parties had independently planned attempts on the mountain at the beg...
In recent years, a number of young Chinese alpinists, having learned their craft in Sichuan and put up new routes in their home mountains, are extending their vision to the less explored regions of Tibet. Because of the development of extensive in...
The line of Lemnos in the Clouds on the headwall of the northwest buttress of Eglinton Tower. Photo by Kelly Turner From June 6 to July 15, our all-female+ team of four—Natalie Afonina, Shira Biner, Heather Smallpage, and I—set out on a 42-da...
The circle marks the location of La Pomme d’Adam, a one-pitch variation to the mega-classic La Pomme d’Or. Photo by Vincent Landry La Pomme d’Or (350m, WI5+) on the east face of Mont de l’Equerre is the great classic among Quebec’s long ice r...
Mont de l’Équerre with the giant ice route of La Pomme d’Or and the 13-pitch line of Les Chercheurs d’Or. Photo by Patrick Brouillard Patrick Brouillard is a regular in the Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie National Park and has established...