Photo by Florence Gross Nicole Berthod (Switzerland) and Fay Manners (U.K.) established an 11-pitch route up Jebel Nassrani South in November. The new route ascends the north face of the eastern pillar on Nassrani South, adjacent to the very ...
The Donne Face of Mt. Revelation, showing the Big Easy (white line, Thomson-Vass, 2012) and A New Dawn (de Wilde–Le, 2025). Photo courtesy of ClimbNZ. Tanja de Wilde and Peter Le kicked off the southern summer in the Darran Mountains in Janua...
Panoramic view of the crags above both sides of Ship Island Creek, which drains Ship Island Lake at left and flows down to the Middle Fork Salmon River. Photo by Cody Goldberg For decades, Idaho climbers have imagined what it would be like to...
A Beast the Color of Winter (7 pitches, 800’, IV 5.12b) on the east face of Goat Mountain. Photo by Marc Hanselman After nearly two decades of exploring easy to moderate ridge routes in Idaho’s Pioneer Mountains, in 2012 Drew Daly and I set o...
Lani Chapko during the first ascent of Makluba on Jebel Um Ejil. Photo by Sam Boyce Lani Chapko and I first visited Wadi Rum in 2023 and were immediately enamored with the climbing. Since then, we have made a number of extended visits and hav...
While visiting family in Idaho, I climbed a direct route up the south ridge of Cobb Peak (11,650’) with my dad, Curtis Olson. Beginning at the toe and slightly east of the crest gave access to lower-angle slabs at around 9,400 feet. These provide...
While establishing some routes in Mendoza Canyon, about 45 minutes west of Tucson, I took dramatic pictures of the nearly 1,000-foot northwest face of a formation called the Potato (5,676’), which had a couple of old routes on its east face but ...
New routes on the Sky Blue Spires: (1) Hawg Ripper (along left skyline), (2) Bofa Spire, (3) The Conclavity, (4) Spankin’ the Marmot (a.k.a. Andrew’s Crack), and (5) Journey to the Center of the Earth. Photo by Daniel Dunn In July, Andrew Tum...
The Iridescent Wall, located on a spur of Mt. Le Conte, and the approximate lines of (1) Boots on the Moon (2020), (2) Buns of Steel (2025), (3) Space Force (2018), and (4) Iridescent Flow (2020). Photo by Dave Nettle Two weeks before Brando...
Stoned Ape Hypothesis (18 pitches, VI 5.13a A0), seen from the foot of the 2,000-foot east face of Keeler Needle (ca 14,260’). The new line lies mostly to the right of the classic Harding Route. Photo by Myles Moser On July 7, Harry Kinnard a...
The route line for Hummingbird on Sentinel Rock. Photo by Taylor Martin While working for Yosemite Search and Rescue from May to October, Taylor Martin established four long first ascents on four different formations: Hummingbird on Sentinel ...
A thin hooking section above Balin’s Roof on Cardiac Arrest. Photo by Tom Evans The white noise of rain on the fly gradually turned into an all-encompassing deluge as the runoff became a waterfall washing onto my portaledge. I didn’t sleep mu...
View of the Tsey Loam group above the Dzheyrakh Valley, showing Zub, Bolshaya Medveditsa, Gaikomd, and Koazoy Loam, with Knyazhna Olga on the far right. Photo: Alexander Yakovenko archive The limestone group above the Dzheyrakh Valley in Ing...
Danny Urioste starting the squeeze chimney of pitch three of Fin Baggin' Society. Photo by Tom Ashley Geoff “Madman” Conley was like an uncle to me while growing up in the morally depraved city of Las Vegas. He and my dad, Jorge, would undert...
In 2023, Kyle Willis, Danny Urioste, and I climbed Salami Wand Kenobi (2,000’, 14 pitches, V 5.11- R C2; see AAJ 2024) on the Aeolian Wall of Mt. Wilson. While high on this route, we got a bird’s eye view of some crack systems on the Wind God Towe...
James Wieman starting the 5.10 R sixth pitch of Time. Wieman and various partners made eight trips to the wall to complete the line. Photo by Arturo Calvo It was in 2015, upon moving to Rockville, near Zion National Park, that I first envisio...
The Particle Accelerator Couloir on the southeast face of Mt. Beulah (12,516’). During the ascent, John Climaco stopped climbing approximately 150 feet below the summit, as the terrain above did not look to be skiable. The XXs mark the two short...
Daryl Miller in 1995 as he and Mark Stasik finished the first winter circumnavigation of Denali and Foraker: 45 days, 350 miles. This was not for work but a private endeavor. Photo Courtesy Family Daryl Raymond Miller, a pioneering Denali mou...
The west face of Meru above the Kirti Glacier, seen from Thalay Sagar, with the 2006 route marked in red and the 2023 variations in blue. (A) Meru North (6,450m). (B) Meru Central (6,310m). (C) Meru Main (South, 6,672m). Photo courtesy of Meru G...
Point Walkers (left) and the Cathedral seen from the upper Satling Glacier. The east ridge of Point Walkers is marked. Photo by Mirjam Limmer The Satling Glacier, an easterly tributary of the Phatling Glacier, south of Thalay Sagar, was first...