Nicole Berthod (Switzerland) and Fay Manners (U.K.) established an 11-pitch route up Jebel Nassrani South in November. The new route ascends the north face of the eastern pillar on Nassrani South, adjacent to the very steep southeast face of Jebel Nassrani North, home to the classic La Guerre Sainte (12 pitches, 7b).

The pair spent six days working on their route, which is protected with traditional gear, drilled threads, and occasional bolts or pitons, in line with local ethics. From the top of the east pillar, they joined the 1989 route Zamarama Dama (Gufler-Haupolter-Precht) and continued more easily to the top of Jebel Nassrani South.

The new line is called Mukatila (365m, 6a A0), an Arabic word for a female warrior, a twist on the “warrior” theme in the names of nearby routes. With its relatively moderate difficulty, an established rappel route, and shady aspect, the route is likely to become popular.  

—Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information from Fay Manners, U.K.