THE WHITE LADDER: TRIUMPH AND TRAGEDY AT THE DAWN OF MOUNTAINEERING By Daniel Light (W.W. Norton) Over the years, I’ve enjoyed many of the original mountaineering stories written by the explorers and athletes. I’ve also been drawn to accounts by ...
ENOUGH: CLIMBING TOWARD A TRUE SELF ON MOUNT EVEREST By Melissa Arnot Reid (Crown) Ten years ago, Melissa Arnot Reid, a Rainier guide who’d clocked over 100 ascents of that peak as well as five previous Everest summits, became the first American ...
The new route Brasiliana (1,000m, 8a+), on the east face of Pedra Riscada. The route is now the leftmost of four lines in this sector. Photo by Rafael Gomes In early August 2025, our team of Brazilian climbers—Felipe Alvares, Vitor Barbosa, G...
In September 2025, climbers Chris Deuto (USA), Ben Sotero (Brazil), Andre “Zóio” Junior (Brazil), and Dan Teitelbaum (USA) made the first free ascent of A Resistência (750m, 8a+) on Pedra da Fortaleza, a 965-meter monolith in the state of Espírito...
Emil Stefani ascending the couloir on the west side of Cerro Socavones. Photo by Agustín Ferrer On September 18, Hernán López, José Vial, and I—all members of the Club Andino Universitario—left for Cerro Socavones (3,772m, -34.4279, -70.2609...
On the summit in superb weather. Left to right: Paloma Farkas, Catalina Unwin, and Angelina Di Prinzio. Photo by Angie Di Prinzio Our expedition began as an improbable idea. Angelina Di Prinzio (Argentina), Catalina Unwin (Chile), and I were ...
Lenore Sparks leading the eighth pitch of the 400-meter Tsofa Dombo, on Karambony. Photo by Jan Novak Say “tsofa dombo” to any Bara person native to the Tsaranoro Valley, and you will most certainly get a laugh. The phrase translates to “the ...
Photo-topo of the new route Famadihana on Madagascar’s Mitsinjoarivo. Photo by Hayden Jamieson In September 2025, Cedar Christensen (USA), Luan Gäumann (Switzerland), Will Sharp (USA), and I spent 25 days in Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley, aim...
Photo-topo of Doble Funge on the east face of Cunduvile at Cumbira Segundo. Photo by Bosco Bonilla A perfect mix of adventure, African culture, huge walls for opening new routes, and the social component of the Climb Angola project had kept A...
The new route Terra da Ginguba on Kaikiawila dome. Photo by Manu Ponce After an expedition to Angola in 2024 (AAJ 2025), we knew the best was yet to come and that we wouldn’t be long in returning. Without much effort, we assembled a team of s...
Seán Villanueva O'Driscoll free climbing the crux traverse on pitch 22 of the east pillar of Cerro Chaltén. Photo by Tasio Martín The East Pillar marks the left side of the imposing east face of Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy). The route that climbs...
In the Chaltén Massif, as has become customary, there were several major rockfall events in the 2025–26 season, some particularly large, including from Cerro Adela, El Mochito, the Filo del Hombre Sentado, Aguja de la Silla, the west side of Cerro...
The Central (left) and North towers in the Paine group, with the line of Paradigm Shift. The route climbs 29 new pitches, then follows the 1963 Bonington-Whillans route to the summit. Photo by Trevor Anthes This project began in the Chilean s...
In 1999, Swiss climber Peter Luthi and Argentines Andy Casal, Marcelo Galghera, and Leo Viamonte spent two months exploring the Turbio IV Valley and started a route up the large wall of La Oreja, then unclimbed. Two years later, Casal returned wi...
In August and September, Joaco Cisternas and Nico Gutiérrez from Chile climbed two long ice and mixed routes in the Cajón del Maipo area. The first was on Cerro Punta Balcón (3,650m, -33.766485, -70.034874): Corredor Chaski (800m, WI4 M5 40°). The...
Between October 18 and 25, Lisandro Arelovich, Gervasio Fierro, and Glauco Muratti from Rosario, Argentina, made the first ascent of Cerro Hosco (5,109m, -32.9406, -69.6697), west of Mendoza. The group departed from Punta de Vacas (2,400m) and biv...
Nevado de Chañi (5,896m) and the line of El Vuelo del Pichón on the south face. Earlier routes are not shown. Argentines Emilio Arciènaga and Ulises Kusnezov and Venezuelan Bernardo Baena opened a new ice route in early June on Nevado de Chañ...
Dakota Walz cruises the fifth pitch of Mercury Miners (220m, 6a+) a new line on the Chameleon Wall, with a great view of Tsaranoro Be and its neighbors across the valley. Photo by Bosco Bonilla After a month of big-walling in Mozambique, Bosc...
Edinburgh Hill, rising nearly 600 feet above the Drake Passage, off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. The climbers ascended the orange basalt near the prow, followed by dangerous scrambling to the summit. Photo by Todd Swain In early Februa...
Henry Feder on the fourth pitch of Endemic Species (1,200’, 5.11+) on Flatiron Butte. Photo by Mike Pond In July 2024, Henry Feder and I spent a week at Flatiron Butte in the Northern Sierra and established two new routes on the east face: Ph...