Cerro Hosco, First Ascent, via East Face

Argentina, Central Andes
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2025. Publication Year: 2026.

image_3Between October 18 and 25, Lisandro Arelovich, Gervasio Fierro, and Glauco Muratti from Rosario, Argentina, made the first ascent of Cerro Hosco (5,109m, -32.9406, -69.6697), west of Mendoza. The group departed from Punta de Vacas (2,400m) and bivouacked before crossing the Tupungato River via a Tyrolean traverse. For three days, they trekked east along an unnamed river, camping at 3,650 meters, 4,100 meters, and 4,600 meters. The approach was complex, with limited access to water and tricky rock glaciers to cross. Muratti and friends had used this same approach two decades earlier to make the first ascent of Cerro El Escondido, just east of Cerro Hosco.

On October 22, the group headed for the summit in good weather. They climbed unroped up a snow couloir on the east face with an angle of 40° to 50°, then passed a set of rotten rock formations to the left over mixed terrain (II) and then pure rock (III). After summiting, they rappelled this difficult section. Farther down, they triggered a big rockfall, fortunately without serious consequences. Because the mountain felt a bit savage and difficult to approach, they called it Cerro Hosco, which in Spanish means “harsh” or “sullen.” This was one of the last unclimbed summits in the area.  

—Marcelo Scanu, Argentina



Media Gallery