A climber injured his leg on the first pitch of the Durrance Route (just right of the sun/shade line in the middle of this photo). Though his partner offered to bail, the climber considered the time they had invested in the trip and decided to c...
On the afternoon of May 30, Jenna Jones (18) was gearing up at the base of a sport crag when she was struck in the head by a falling rock. Jenna sent the following report to ANAC: While on a Teton trip with my boyfriend, “A,” we decided to do a q...
On July 3, two male climbers summited the Middle Teton via the Northwest Couloir Route. As the weather deteriorated and winds increased, the climbers elected to descend the Middle Teton Glacier Route (Grade III 5.4 AI2+) instead of the standard 3r...
With the Middle Teton (center right) dominating the skyline, Garnet Canyon presents a beautiful and relatively low-altitude (9,280 feet) vista. Still, without proper acclimatization, climbers can easily suffer high altitude illness here. Photo: ...
On the afternoon of July 16, a 72-year-old male fell while leading on the Upper Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Luckily, he landed on the ledge from which he was being belayed. This climber sustained significant injuries and was having difficulty b...
This photo was taken after a 30-plus-foot leader fall low on the North Face of the Grand Teton. The leader’s high point is visible (blue X), as is the failed cam placement (red arrow). The fall ended at the yellow arrow. Photo: Christian Feinaue...
On July 24, a 22-year-old female climber fell on steep snow while descending the Southwest Couloir Route on the Middle Teton (12,809 feet). The fall occurred while the climber was traveling on a shortcut to avoid the usual path to the saddle below...
In recent years, Frenchman Coulee, a.k.a. Vantage, has emerged as a destination climbing area, with sport routes and superb crack climbs on columnar basalt. Pictured here is a popular area known as the Feathers. The density of routes and ease of...
On June 29, I (male, 35) and two partners (both male, 40 and 36) were descending the Emmons Glacier after a summit attempt. A little after 7 a.m., a serac collapsed higher on the mountain. We were around the 11,000-foot level, near the top of the ...
At 1:30 p.m. on June 6, Mt. Rainier climbing rangers were notified about a satellite SOS activation on Liberty Ridge. The incident commander was able to directly message two climbers, who were stranded at 9,700 feet. Rockfall had hit one climber i...
Being mindful of one’s rope position is always important. The photo shows a later re-creation of an accident on a granite sport climb near Leavenworth, Washington, in which the leader’s rope wrapped around their arm immediately prior to a fall. ...
In rare circumstances, girth-hitching anchor cord around a rappel ring can lead to anchor failure. Manipulating the rappel ring in certain ways (pulling outward on the top of the ring in this illustration) can cause the girth hitch to "flip," es...
Climbing accidents are a painful yet consistent measure of the state of our sport. Accidents mirror trends in climbing culture, reflect areas of its growth, and follow a shifting demographic. As climbing encompasses a bigger, more varied populatio...
On August 3 at approximately 2:40 p.m., the Whatcom County Sheriff’s Office notified North Cascades National Park climbing rangers of a potential rescue situation on Thornton Peak. Initial information was that a 36-year-old female had a lower leg ...
T.C. Price Zimmerman seemed to live a charmed, or at least exceptional, life. He was, concurrently, president of the American Alpine Club and dean of the faculty at Davidson College. He had graduated Phi Beta Kappa from Williams College; studied a...
This has never been climbed,” Dhruv tells us. A passionate local climber and a living guidebook, Dhruv Joshi helped put our expedition to India together. He points to a beautiful pyramid just to the south of Nanda Devi East: “About 6,300 meters.” ...
These days, becoming a great alpine climber undoubtedly requires high-level physical fitness and proficiency across various climbing styles. However, as others have said before, alpine climbing isn’t just a sport—it feels more like an art form. Ph...
It had been a 50-day odyssey to get from Oban, Scotland, to the massive shield of granite called Mirror Wall on the Renland peninsula of East Greenland. Those seven weeks included sailing through rough seas, vomiting with seasickness, dodging stor...
Kajaqiao (left) and Manamcho seen from the northwest over the Manam Valley. The first-ascent route on Manamcho (Fowler-Ramsden, 2007) faces the camera. The 2024 route up the southwest face and ridge lies near the right skyline. Photo: Lai Xingzh...
The northwest face of Jiongmudazhi (6,590m) and the line of the first ascent in September 2024. Photo: Tong Haijun/Wang Yongpeng Less than a month after climbing Chuchepo (see report here), Tong Haijun and Wang Yongpeng returned to the area i...