Pat Perry Johnson and I arrived in Namche Bazaar on April 6. A week later, we attempted Kyajo Ri’s southwest ridge but retreated 200m below the summit due to lack of time and deteriorating weather. Disappointed but still full of motivation, we set...
After arriving in the Rolwaling in October, Connor Holdsworth, Jack Morris, Dave Sharpe, and Nathan White (all from the U.K.) established base camp on the 21st and an advanced base at 4,860m the next day. They then acclimatized by climbing Parcham...
In October 2023, Maciej Kimel and I made the first ascent of the northeast pillar of Chobutse (6,686m), naming our route Just Breathe (1,600m, M5 WI4 R/X). The pillar had one previous known attempt, by Romanian Mihnea Prundeanu and Cypriot Kyriako...
Damien Nicodemi navigating a fun but grainy crack on the fourth pitch of Felsic High Road on Mt. Langley. Photo: Emma Kluge. On August 25, Emma Kluge and I climbed a new route on Mt. Langley (14,026’) in the southern Sierra. For a couple of y...
Looking up Arctic Lake Wall. In August, Daniel Dunn, Rett English, and I visited Arctic Lake Wall and climbed a new route up the center, aiming for the left side of the wall’s largest roofs. We took a line to the left of Arctic Beast (700’...
Jake Terry leading pitch seven of the East Rib (1,500’, 5.10a), with some of the route visible above. Photo: Ian McEleney. I had long heard about the classic 1972 East Pillar route on Mt. Barnard’s east peak (ca 13,680’): It has a reputation...
In late May 2024, Neal Harder, Josef Maier, Brandon Thau, and I established the first free route on the south face of Homers Nose (a.k.a. Homers Brow). This was our second attempt. We started on the first two pitches of Dance of Topo-Usha (5.10 A3...
Spring Roll (1,000’, III/IV 5.10). Photo: Thomas Sicilian. In early August 2024, Jack Schlinkert and I set out from Mineral King to hike in to Spring Lake Wall, intending to climb one of the established routes. As we set up camp, our attenti...
On November 2, Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and I embarked on a nearly 30-mile approach from Monache Meadows to the Kern River region to scout some intriguing formations. We camped at the natural bridge feature near Lava Falls on Golden Tr...
The Sage (1,060’, 10 pitches, 5.10c), seen here from the south, follows a series of corners, ramps, and chimneys up the southern aspect of the Fortress. Photo by Sam Fearer. In early August, under a full summer sun, Dave Meyer and I set out t...
David Stone just below the summit of Oyster Peak during the first ascent of Mother of Pearl Ridge. Photo: Daniel Jeffcoach. In mid-August, David Stone and I hiked 20-plus miles from the Rancheria trailhead on the east side of Wishon Reservoir...
Map of domes climbed in 2023 and 2024 to the east of Courtright Reservoir. Dave Nettle The many granite domes surrounding Courtright Reservoir have long been known for excellent rock and challenging friction and edging routes in a spectacula...
Mt. Goode from the north, showing the new six-pitch route Tiger Lily (III 5.11-) up the sunlit orange and gold panel. Photo by Cole Taylor. On the north aspect of Mt. Goode (13,085’), a beautiful peak near Bishop Pass, is a narrow gray panel,...
After a successful trip to Royce Lakes Basin earlier in the season (see report here), Matt O’Brien and I decided to return in July with our friend Daniel Dunn to try a new route on Merriam Peak. Heart of Darkness (1,100’, 9 pitches, IV 5.11-),...
Beding Go (6,125m), with the northwest ridge, climbed in 2024, on the left and the southeast ridge, the original 2015 route, on the right. Photo by Cian O'Brolchain. On October 13, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and I teamed up to climb the northwest ri...
About five kilometers south of Chhopa Bamare, along the frontier ridge, is an unnamed snow summit of 5,805m (28°0’42.43”N, 86°5’7.24”E). On December 29, 2023, eight days after reaching their base camp, a Nepalese team comprising Lila Bahadur Basne...
Chhopa Bamare (6,109m), showing (green) the original route up the southeast face and south ridge (2019) and (red) the 2024 route along the northeast ridge. Photo by Hiroyoshi Manome. Chhopa Bamare (6,109m, 28°3’32.05”N, 86°5’28.50”E) is the ...
Base camp with the west and northwest sides of Phurbi Chhyachu behind. Photo by Marek Disman. Drawn to Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637m) by its aesthetic appearance and sparse mountaineering history, Rosa Morotti and I aimed to repeat the original rou...
The 2024 Korean-Nepalese Route followed a slender couloir on the east-southeast face of Jugal I (6,591m). The rocky summit toward the left edge of the picture is Jugal III (6,184m). In the spring, a joint expedition from Korea and Nepal, led ...
The northwest face of Ganchempo and the route followed in November 2024. The climbers descended the standard route to the south-southwest. In 2023, Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrín climbed a parallel line to the left. Various unauthorized ascent...