Peak 5,970m, Southeast Face and East Ridge

India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul and Spiti
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2025. Publication Year: 2026.

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The approach and ascent to the summit of Peak 5,970m (6,001m GPS). (A) Peak 5,970m. (B) Ramjak (6,318m). (D) Shingo South (6,068m GPS). (BC) Base camp. (S) Shingo La. (CI) Camp I. (C2) Camp 2. 

Northwest of well-known Ramjak (6,318m), at 32°51’58”N, 77°06’35”E, lies Peak 5,970m (map height), which was attempted in 2015 by the east ridge; the party was stopped by avalanche slopes about 250 meters from the top (AAJ 2016).

On July 31, having driven from Manali with Peak 5,970m as their objective, an India expedition established base camp close to the road below the Shingo La (5,090m). Members were Mayukh Banik, Anusuya Dey, Nirmal Kumar, Subhendu Mandal, and Arpita Roy, with the lead climbing carried out by two paid support staff, Mingma Tenzing Sherpa and Phurtemba Sherpa.

On August 3, after reconnaissance, the team moved west up the glacier toward Shingo South (see AAJ 2025) and made Camp 1 at 5,370 meters. The plan was to cross the northeast ridge of Shingo South and descend to the glacier on the far (north) side, thus gaining access to Peak 5,970m’s east side. This was achieved on August 5—a demanding traverse over steep, rocky slopes and unstable moraine, where around 90 meters of rope were fixed to aid the return. Camp 2 was at 5,004 meters, after descending the glacier south-southwest to its base.

On the 6th, the whole team left at 3 a.m. and made a long push up Peak 5,970m, climbing the southeast face and upper east ridge of the mountain. In the higher part of the ascent, 305 meters of rope were fixed. The climbers summited a little after 3 p.m. and recorded an altitude of 6,001 meters. They regained camp at 9 p.m.

—Lindsay Griffin, AAJ, from a report submitted to the Himalayan Journal



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