The steep upper reaches of the Candlestick’s west face. The first ascent route is not visibile but is near the left skyline. Photo by Daniel Jeffcoach In my years of exploring the Great Western Divide and Monarch Divide in the Sierra Nevada, ...
Zach Lovell on one of the crux 5.10a pitches on Shits and Glitters, near the summit of Four Gables. Photo by Sara Green “Zach, we already thought of a name,” said my fiancée, Syd Knadler, as she manteled onto the summit plateau of Four Ga...
Jake Whisenant onsighting the 5.11c Glass Elevator roof, the third pitch of Wonka’s Way (7 pitches, 5.11c) on Hershey’s Kiss. Photo by Leo Franch Over the long Fourth of July weekend, Matt Allen and I made the soul-crushing trek over Taboose ...
Japhy Dhungana on the 5.13a crux pitch of Dr. Bear Love Free (800’, 4 pitches, 5.13a), on the north buttress of Merriam Peak, Granite Park area, Sierra Nevada, California. Photo by Zach Lovell Sometimes you don’t have to pick between quality ...
Approximate route line on the northwest headwall of Castle Mountain. Photo by Greg Barrett The striking northwest headwall of Castle Mountain jumps out in the setting sun while you’re driving south on Highway 1. I texted my extremely dialed f...
The line of Time (24 pitches, VI 5.10 A2) on the west-facing Red Alert Wall. Photo by Cameron Jackson Since first learning about the Daniels River Valley (DRV) and Red Alert Wall (50.37517, -124.35519), I’ve spent countless hours on CalTopo,...
Mt. Robson from the south, showing the The Great Couloir in February 2023. Photo by Alex Buisse / Mont Blanc Lines I’m so relieved to be on the other side of this project. Skiing the south face of Mt. Robson (3,959m) had been a dream for year...
Pitch four (5.10+) on Iron Tears. Photo by Gabs Clark On August 17, 2025, Gabs Clark and I set out to repeat Murder by Numbers (5.11, Ruddy-Slawinski, 2007) on the east face of the Rimwall, but on our way to the route, a striking dihedral cau...
Giacomo Meliffi climbing pitch six of L’oro dello Yukon. Photo by Dario Eynard Visiting the Cirque of the Unclimbables and climbing a new route has always been one of my dreams. Doing it together with three friends—Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eyn...
The view up the southeast side of Gilt Peak from Frodo’s Knob. Team Photo Gilt Peak (1,893m/6,211’, 53.942523, -129.222608) is deep in the Coast Mountains, within Foch-Gilttoyees Provincial Park. It’s one of the most visible mountains in the ...
Morning light on Howse Peak (3,295m), seen from high on Mt. Chephren. Photo by Nic Houser On August 4, 2024, at 4 p.m., Greg Barrett and I left Waterfowl Lakes Campground, eyes set again on the east face of Mt. Chephren (3,274m). We had prev...
Julie Beauchemin on pitch nine of Follow the Sun (520m, 5.10) on the east/southeast face of an unnamed tower 1.85 km west of Mt. Northumbria. Photo by Bruno-Pierre Couture On July 19, 2025, Julie Beauchemin, Trigg Sharp, and I hiked through a...
Ines Papert on the crux pitch of On the Wings of Maybe during the first free ascent. Photo by John Price On the Wings of Maybe (400m, 5.12+/5.13-) is an alpine rock climb on the Rimwall, a 2,680-meter summit of high-quality Palliser limestone...
In August, Cynthia Chung, Alec Cooper, Mark Hurst, and Laura Woodall climbed an eight-pitch route up east-facing slabs at the foot of Aegir Peak, behind the Ulu emergency shelter in the Weasel River Valley: Aegir Sanction (400m, 5.8 R A0). Details...
The new route Folia do Divino on the north face of Pedra Riscada. Photo by Ed Padilha On August 16, 2025, Willian Lacerda, Valdesir Machado, Elcio Muliki, and I departed from Curitiba, in the Brazilian state of Paraná, bound for Minas Gerais,...
Mark Elton Photo-topo of Regicide, the first route up the east face of Pic Dondy in the Andringitra Massif. Photo by Mark Elton In October, Mark Elton (USA), Thibau Grandjean (France), and I (USA) established Regicide, a 12-pitch route on th...
The White Ladder: Triumph and Tragedy at the Dawn of Mountaineering. By Daniel Light (W.W. Norton). Over the years, I’ve enjoyed many of the original mountaineering stories written by the explorers and athletes. I’ve also been drawn to accounts b...
Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest. By Melissa Arnot Reid (Crown). Ten years ago, Melissa Arnot Reid, a Rainier guide who’d clocked over 100 ascents of that peak as well as five previous Everest summits, became the first America...
The new route Brasiliana (1,000m, 8a+), on the east face of Pedra Riscada. The route is now the leftmost of four lines in this sector. Photo by Rafael Gomes In early August 2025, our team of Brazilian climbers—Felipe Alvares, Vitor Barbosa, G...
In September 2025, climbers Chris Deuto (USA), Ben Sotero (Brazil), Andre “Zóio” Junior (Brazil), and Dan Teitelbaum (USA) made the first free ascent of A Resistência (750m, 8a+) on Pedra da Fortaleza, a 965-meter monolith in the state of Espírito...