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Accident Reports ANAM
FATALITY — Volcanic Eruption Mexico, Pueble, Popocatéptl

One climber was killed and another seriously injured while attempting to climb the off-limits volcano Popocatépetl, the fifth-highest summit in North America. The active volcano erupted on June 22, and according to official reports, a group of fo...

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| Published 2022 | Author Cbsnews.com and the Brigada de Rescate del Socorro Alpino de México A.C.


Accident Reports ANAM
LEAD FALL ON ROCK — Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection Canada, Québec, Grands-Jardins National Park, Mont de Gros-Bras

This occurred on June 1 on Hals-und Beinbruch (7 pitches, 5.8). On the fourth pitch, just after several meters of more engaging vertical climbing, a large rock measuring approximately one meter by one meter by 10 centimeters dislodged and pulled o...

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| Published 2022 | Author Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l'escalade.


Accident Reports ANAM
SLIP ON ROCK WHILE LEADING Canada, Québec, Chicoutimi-Nord

This incident occurred on April 24, around 2 p.m., as a female climber, age 27, was leading a dihedral on Post Scriptum (5.11d) in the Marshmallows Sector. The footholds were slippery, and as she held a gaston (a thumb-down grip on side-pull hold)...

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| Published 2022 | Author Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l'escalade.


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL SLIP ON ROCK — Climbing Unroped Canada, British Columbia, Assiniboine Provincial Park

On August 12, a party of two climbers left the Hind Hut to ascend the north ridge of Mt. Assiniboine (AD 5.5). By late morning, they had reached one of the steeper upper steps at about 3,500 meters (11,482’). The pair had soloed everything up to t...

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| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FALL ON ROCK Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, cascade Mountain

Married couple Daniel Heritage (28) and Emma Heritage were midway up a popular multi-pitch route called Mother’s Day Buttress (8 pitches, 5.6) on Cascade Mountain. Leading the fifth pitch, Daniel chose a more difficult (5.8) variation up a steep c...

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| Published 2022 | Author Canada Parks and Gripped.,com


Accident Reports ANAM
LEADER FALL ON ROCK — Swing into Ledge Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain

On October 5, two climbers were on the eighth and final pitch of Tonka (5.10d) on Tunnel Mountain when the leader fell sideways, hitting a small ledge. The climber sustained an injury to their lower leg and ankle and was lowered back to the belay,...

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| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
FALL ON ROCK — Inadequate Protection Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Temple

On July 15, two climbers were nearing the top of Mt. Temple’s north face via the Greenwood-Locke Route (20 pitches, 5.10+) on their second day of climbing. The route was in relatively dry summer condition, and the weather was clear and calm. At 4...

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| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
FALL ON SNOW — Avalanche Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Icefields Parkway

On March 22, a party of two was climbing Polar Circus (9 pitches, WI5), located above the Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies. At approximately 4 p.m., while descending snow slopes between ice pitches, the party was struck by a Size 2 avalan...

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| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FALL ON ROCK — Loose Rock Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Bedson Ridge

Person 1 (female belayer, 29) and Person 2 (male leader, 29) were climbing on Bedson Ridge near the northeast boundary of Jasper National Park. This area has multi-pitch climbs on highly compact limestone. The pair were friends and had been climbi...

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| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FREE SOLO FALL — Climbing Unroped Canada, British Columbia, Cheakamus Canyon

On October 15, Nathan Roberts (35) died as a result of a fall while free soloing Mrs. Negative (5.12a) at Cheakamus Canyon, a sport crag north of Squamish. He was alone at the time and attempted the route while waiting to meet up with a climbing p...

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| Published 2022 | Author Climbing .com


Accident Reports ANAM
ROCKFALL — Triggered by Rappel Ropes Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Waddington Range

On the morning of July 29, Matteo Agnoloni (30) and I, Ethan Berman (31), set off early from a bivy high on the ridgeline connecting Serra 3 and 4 in the Waddington Range. We were attempting a full traverse of the range and were in the midst of a ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Ethan Berman


Feature Article AAJ
An Elusive Summit: The First Ascent of Pumari Chhish East Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh

"Look, Jérôme," Mathieu Maynadier said, pointing at a map as he and Jérôme Sullivan drank coffee at Mathieu’s home back in 2021. “Pumari Chhish East is like Latok, but without any previous ascents.” At the time, Mathieu and Tom Livingstone had a...

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| Published 2022 | Author Christophe Ogier


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Breitenbach, North Face, First Ski Descent Idaho, Lost River Range

I became interested in the north face of Mt. Breitenbach (12,140’) in the early 2000s as an alpine climbing objective. There had been several attempts over the years, but only one route, the Grand Chockstone Couloir (III 5.8 A2, Boyles-Olson-Weber...

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| Published 2023 | Author Marc Hanselman


Accident Reports ANAM
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE Wyoming, Wind River Range, Cirque of the Towers, Wolfs Head

July 6 was the second day of climbing in the Cirque of the Towers for Alex Satonik (35) and Peter Haley (29). After climbing Pingora the previous day, they decided to try the equally classic East Ridge of Wolfs Head (10 pitches, 5.6). Satonik wrot...

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| Published 2022 | Author Alex Satonik and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
GLISSADING ACCIDENT — Fall into Moat Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon, Spalding Falls

On June 30 at approximately 2:25 p.m., while on patrol, a National Park Service (NPS) climbing ranger encountered two climbers yelling for help near the top of Spalding Falls. The climbing ranger reported that a 62-year-old male had lost control w...

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| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
STRANDED BY WEATHER Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot Mountain

On September 21 at 8:30 p.m., climbing rangers received a call from a climber reporting that his party of three were soaking wet and stuck on the south face of Teewinot (12,325’). The reporting party relayed that they had a single headlamp and no ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Climbing Fall Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Cathedral Traverse

On August 16 at 10:52 a.m., National Park Service (NPS) climbing rangers received a call from a climber on the Cathedral Traverse, between Teewinot and Mt. Owen. His climbing partner had fallen from the col atop the Koven Couloir. The reporting pa...

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| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
LONG FALL — Loose Rock, Simul-climbing Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Cascade Canyon

At 4 p.m. on July 23, NPS climbing rangers received a call from a climber near the summit of Symmetry Spire. She reported that her climbing partner had taken an estimated 60-foot tumbling leader fall and that he had briefly lost consciousness and ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
ROCKFALL Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran

On August 16 at 12:36 p.m., rangers received a cell phone call from a climber who reported that his two partners needed assistance at 9,600 feet on Mt. Moran (12,610’). The reporting party (RP) was descending the CMC Route and was in communication...

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| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue and Carter Ley


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FALL WHILE DESCENDING DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER Washington, Mt. Ranier, Disappointment Cleaver

On August 22, a Canadian climber named Chun Hui Zhang (52) died after falling while descending the Disappointment Cleaver route on Mt. Rainier. He was climbing the mountain with several friends. His body was recovered the day after the accident wa...

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| Published 2022 | Author National Park Service