In Memoriam AAJ
David Breashears, 1955–2024

Photo by Jimmy Chin David Breashears, who died at his home in Massachusetts on March 14, at age 68, had an outsized influence on many people’s lives, including mine. His endeavors as an incredibly bold and visionary climber and alpinist were ...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Jimmy Chin


Feature Article AAJ
Three Modern Aid Routes on Baffin Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park

Using a Micro Traxion on a fixed rope, Miles Fullman works to free the aid pitches climbed earlier on the lower east face of Mt. Loki. The hardest of these pitches is estimated to be free climbable at 5.12+. In back are the north (left) and sout...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Miles Fullman


Accident Reports ANAM
Anchor Failure Utah, Moab Area, River Road

Sorcerer’s Apprentice Left (5.11c) climbs two pitches up the shaded, left-facing corner. A lone climber fell to his death in spring of 2024 while retrieving a stuck rappel rope. Photo: Eric Dixon On the evening of April 21, Grand County Searc...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Grand County Search and Rescue and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Protection Pulled Out Utah, Moab, Castleton Tower

The Kor-Ingalls Route on Castleton Tower climbs the shaded cracks on the right side of the formation. First climbed in 1961 by Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls, it is included in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America....

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Grand County Search and rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Missed Clip Tennessee, Foster Falls, The Left Bunker

Everything about Eclipse (5.12c/d) is classic, except for the third clip. In February 2024, Brian West fell from near this spot, ending up in the hospital—he was not wearing a helmet. Here we see the helmeted West on an earlier attempt. He has t...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Brian West


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Poor Pad Placement Texas, Hueco Tanks State Park, North Mountain

Pete Korpics on an early attempt on See Spot Run. He recalls, “I was very familiar with this famous and dangerous route, as I’d been attempting it for several years.”  Photo: Pete Takeda On January 22, I (Pete Korpics, 35) was attempting to c...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Pete Korpics, Mtn.Project.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Amputation — Leader Fall, Rope Wrapped Around Pinkie South Dakota, Spearfish Canyon, Warm-Up Walls

Spencer Drewelow demonstrates how, while clipping an anchor in Spearfish Canyon, he fell and the rope amputated his pinkie. Reattachment surgery was successful, as was the follow-up leech therapy. His finger ultimately survived, and he is climbi...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Spencer Drewelow


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Ropes Stuck Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Smith Rock Group

A rescuer approaches two stranded climbers after they took the wrong descent and got their ropes stuck on a recessed anchor. Immediately prior, the pair had watched another party rappel off the same incorrect anchor, get their rope stuck (yellow...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Caleb Bryce, Deschutes County Sheriff's Office, Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Loose Rock Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Picnic Lunch Wall

An injured climber being evacuated from the base of Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock. After this climber suffering a debilitating leader fall, he and his partner fixed their rope and rappelled two pitches to the base, thereby facilitating a faste...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Kassandra Spinnie and Nolan's Instagram account


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Locking Carabiner Jammed Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Kiss of the Lepers Buttress

On December 22, at 4:51 p.m., I was dispatched to a stuck climber at Smith Rock State Park. A female climber was stuck about 40 feet above the ground on the final rappel from a route called First Kiss (5 pitches, 5.7). She was climbing with a male...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Caleb Bryce, Deschutes County Sheriff's Office, Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Fumarole Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

In April 2024, an 18-year-old climber tumbled into this fumarole after taking a long fall on Mt. Hood. He was discovered wedged between the rock and snow. His father/climbing partner can be seen descending (red circle) above. Photo: Ben Sleister...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Ben Sleister


Accident Reports ANAM
Near Miss — Open Grigri Oregon, Climbing Gym

On March 24, while at a rock gym, Bystander 1 and Bystander 2 were alerted by a belayer that he needed assistance. A climber was top-roping near the end of a route and the belayer’s Grigri was not fully closed. This left the outer plate open and t...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Ruby Piechocki


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Missed the Pads North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Dixon School Boulders

On February 18, my friend and I (Anonymous) hiked to the Dixon School Boulders for a session. We’d been climbing there for a number of years. After warming up in the Lower Patio Area, we went to the classic Galvatron (V3). Since we often climb tog...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Anonymous Climber


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock North Carolina, Blue Ridge Mountains, Laurel Knob

Laurel Knob is one of the tallest crags in the eastern U.S. and home to some serious multipitch climbing. Formerly a clandestine climbing destination on private land, the 1,200-foot granite dome was purchased by the Carolina Climbers Coalition i...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Lead Climber


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Pendulum fall North Carolina, Linville Gorge, Amphitheater

The rugged Linville Gorge is a quality Southeastern climbing destination and also a designated wilderness area. The relative isolation of these crags needs consideration when planning a climb. Photo: Ken Thomas — Wikimedia On January 19, MC a...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author James Massey, James Robinson, Burke County SAR and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled Out North Carolina, Linvile Gorge, Table Rock Mountain

On August 2, a climber fell while leading a route on Table Rock Mountain. She was unaware of it at the time, but she had broken her back. Despite the injury, she self-rescued shortly before a thunderstorm doused the crag. Photo: Anonymous climbe...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Climber 1


Accident Reports ANAM
Ledge Fall North Carolina, Pisgah National Forest, Looking Glass Rock, Fate Osteen Crag

AH (37) and CE (48) met online and decided to go to the Fate Osteen Crag for some rock climbing. On November 29, they got to the base of Twist of Fate (2 pitches, 5.7) and decided that CE would lead the first pitch (5.7). AH joined CE at the belay...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Karsten Delap and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Lowering Error, Clipped Wrong Rope at Anchor New York, Shawangunks, The Near Trapps Area

On October 14, Mohonk SAR rangers responded to a climber who had fallen to the ground while being lowered from Outer Space (5.8) in the Near Trapps area. They found the climber (Climber 2, female) lying in the talus beneath the route. A trailing r...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Mohonk Preserve Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Rock Dislodged During Intentional Fall New York, Shawangunks, Trapps Area

In October, a climber was taking practice falls after attending a “Fall Therapy” clinic that was taught indoors by a certified guide. This led to a serious accident when a chunk of rock was dislodged, striking the climber after he stopped fallin...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Mohonk Preserve Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Shawangunks Annual Summary New York, Shawangunks, Mohonk Preserve

The 2024 season at the Mohonk Preserve saw numerous climbing-related incidents that resulted in various musculoskeletal injuries. There were eight lead climbing incidents, four bouldering accidents, and one environmental incident that the Mohonk S...

| Keywords
| Published 2024 | Author Mohonk Preserve Rangers