Editor's Note: The story of the two American ascents of Everest in 1963 appeared in the 1964 AAJ in one long article, with the first part, written by Norman Dyhrenfurth, covering the ascent by the South Col route, and the second part, written by W...
Editor's Note: The story of the two American ascents of Everest in 1963 appeared in the 1964 AAJ in one long article, with the first part, written by Norman Dyhrenfurth, covering the ascent by the South Col route, and the second part, written by W...
The northwest face of Alpomish, climbed in 2024 and 2025. From the col, the teams took separate routes up to the right to reach the top. Photo by Eric Gilbertson In July 2024, Uzbek climber and guide Vladimir Dolgiy led a team to attempt what...
In November, John Biggar (Scotland) led an international team consisting of Ulli Bayer, Daniel Choquet, Vito Ricciardi, and Andrew Thorburn to the mountains south of ice-capped Ritipampa de Quellcaya, in the southern Cordillera Vilcanota. They mad...
Carrie Adams negotiates exposed 4th-class rock on the east summit of Machu Riti, after climbing the south face. Photo by Derek Field In August 2025, my partner, Carrie Adams, and I traveled to southern Peru to spread a parcel of my late wife ...
The routes climbed and descended in 2025 on the north side of Nevado Verdish-Ventanilla. Photo by Frank Nederhand In 2014 and 2015, Quique Apolinario Villafan and I explored the Pariacaca Mountains, which sit east of Lima and west of Huancayo...
On June 10, the Basque team of Aritz Aparicio, Ander Uria, and Urko Zabala climbed a new line up the north side of Puscanturpa Este (ca 5,440m). Galdu eta Irabazi (“Losing and Winning”) had eight pitches, mostly on rock, with cruxes of 7a and 7b. ...
The south face of Nevado Palcaraju (6,274m) and the line of the first ascent of the face. Photo by: Matt Stacy On May 5, Dane Christensen, Nate Heald, and I set off on a quest to put a route on the unclimbed south face of Nevado Palcaraju (6...
The south face of Nevado Mururaju with the two 2025 lines. Expedition Photo After more than a month in the Cordillera Blanca, we were a little tired but still had time for another climb. We wanted something away from the beaten path, and afte...
The line of Kolibri, climbed by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl, and Alexander Huber in 2025. Photo: Alexander Huber Collection In 2023, Dani Arnold and I visited the great Cordillera Huayhuash to check out the possibilities for a new route on the e...
Topo of the 2025 route Carlos Suarez on the northeast face of Cashan Oeste. Photo by Manuel Lopez In late July, Alex Úbeda and I opened a route on the northeast face of Nevado Cashán Oeste (5,686m, -9.560183, -77.370175). After climbing the c...
Michael Chessler and his wife, Heinke Forfota. Photo by George Meyers Michael “Mike” Chessler, owner and purveyor of one of the world’s leading collections of mountain literature for over 40 years, died June 28, at 82, after a long illness. H...
Hacia Rutas Salvajes on the southwest face of Nevado Churup. Prior routes are not shown. Nevado Churup (a.k.a. Tsurup, ca 5,495m) was one of the few mountains visible from Huaraz that we had yet to climb. A classic in the 1980s and ’90s, when...
Topo of Mi Carnal on the south face of Urus Oeste. Photo: Iñaki Herrasti Collection It all began at Plaza Ginebra in Huaraz. I’d gone to meet friends for dinner, and at the table next to ours were friends of theirs, Linda and Alex from Austri...
Maximiliano Arias enjoying the high-quality snow on pitch four of Vuelta Austral. Photo by Vicente Urzúa In June, Eduardo Tapia, Vicente Urzúa, and I traveled to Huaraz with the goal of improving in mixed climbing, as we already had much expe...
Photo-topo of the route Directissima Mallorquina on the west face of Santa Cruz Chico. From June 20 to July 20, 2025, a team from the Alpinism Technical Group of the Balearic Islands (FBME, Federació Balear de Muntanyisme i Escalada) explore...
Approaching the foot of the southwest face of Urus Central. Photo by Cati Lladó Our team from the Alpinism Technical Group of the Balearic Islands (FBME, Federació Balear de Muntanyisme I Escalada) spent two months in Peru between June and Ju...
Photo-topo of Sudor Peruano on the northeast face of Huandoy Este. The descent route is shown in blue. Photo by Wilder Alva Chinchay In June 2025, Wilder Alva Chinchay (Peru) and I (Panama) established a new route on the northeast face of Hua...
Collages of Rock & Desire: Re-imagining Climbing in Red Rock, Risk in the Andes & Running into Dreams, by Joanne Urioste (Wild Turkeys Press). Memoir by the Red Rock pioneer, guidebook author, and Southwest climbing legend. Against the Wi...
Spare These Stones: A Journey Through Southern Climbing Culture. By Andrew Kornylak (Mountaineers Books). If us Southern climbers had a nickel for every time we had to explain how rich and diverse the climbing options are down here, we’d all be a...