Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Asgard, Never Laugh at Dragons, and Other Routes Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park

Bronwyn Hodgins on the summit of Thor Peak with the Weasel River far below. Photo by Jacob Cook I crouched on a rock ledge that was barely wider than a picnic bench and sloped disconcertingly toward the abyss. Both my hands supported our litt...

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| Published 2019 | Author Bronwyn Hodgins


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Inglefield Mountains, Exploration and Ivory Gull Research Canada, Nunavut Ellesmere Island / Prince of Wales Icefield

Meltwater channels near Cape Mouat on Ellesmere Island. From this aerial vantage, one can see how drones would help in quickly identifying safe crossing points over the channels, which were up to 50km long. Photo by Greg Horne The Inglefield ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Greg Home


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Gunj-e-Dur Valley, Various Ascents Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Shuijerab Subgroup

Looking east from the ascent of Mai Dur Sar in 2016 to (A) Trident Gunj-e-Sar (6,093m), (B) Point 6,000m, (C) Gunj-e-Sar Main (6,376m), (D) Gunj-e-Sar Middle (about 6,200m, climbed in 2017 by Ross Davidson and Karim Hayet and named Yad Sar), (E)...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jerzy Wala


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Two-Headed Massif, North Summit, Southeast Couloir and Southwest Ridge Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Khunjerab Subgroup

Two-Headed Massif from the Polish Massif to the east. Photo by Boguslaw Magrel The Two-Headed Massif lies to the east of Yawash Sar and northwest of the North Ghidims Glacier. When developing a sketch map of the Ghidims Valley, I bestowed the...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jerzy Wala


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Valkyrie Peak and Other Ascents Canada, Baffin Island / Auyuittuq National Park

Looking southeast up an arm of the Fork Beard Glacier. The Swiss team climbed the 500-meter north face of the mountain at left, calling it Valkyrie Peak. Their route was Rien á Déclarer (“Nothing to Declare,” 7a A2+). The other faces are probabl...

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| Published 2019 | Author Denis Burdet and Pierre Bétrisey


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mario Sar, South-southwest and Southeast ridge; Dih Sar, Southeast Face, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Karun Koh Subgroup

Looking south from Mario Sar at Karun Koh (variously 7,164m 6,977m).  Photo by Mariusz Saramak The Ghujerab Mountains form the northern Karakoram. This vast mountain area can be conveniently partitioned into four areas or subgroups: Khunjerab...

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| Published 2019 | Author Jerzy Wala


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Yawash Sar II, West Face, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Khunjerab Subgroup

The west face of unclimbed Yawash II with the route attempted by Krzysztof Wielicki and Jalal Uddin in 2018.  Above the narrows, this face is around 850m high. Photo by Karim Hayat The peaks of Yawash Sar (I, 6,258m; II, 6,125m; and III, 6,06...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jerzy Wala


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Panpoche II, Southwest Ridge and South-southwest Face; Panpoche I, Northeast Ridge Nepal, Manaslu Himal

Starting the crux “blade traverse” at 6,520m, heading toward the summit of Panpoche I.  Photo by Archil Badriashvili "Those mountains are so beautiful!" Giorgi Tepnadze, Baqar Gelashvili, and I all said the same thing while gazing eastward to...

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| Published 2019 | Author Archil Badriashvili


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nevado Tunsho (main summit), southeast face, second ascent and correction Peru, Cordillera Central

Nevado Tunsho (5,730m) is in the central mountain range in Peru, the Cordillera Central. Few climbers have managed to reach its highest summit. In May, Peruvian guides Octavio Salazar Obregón and Eloy Salazar Obregón, along with Erick Llantoy, cli...

| Keywords pinto, andes, Tunshu, Tunsho
| Published 2019 | Author Octavio Salazar Obregón


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pongos Norte, South Face (Not to Summit) Peru, Cordillera Blanca

On July 3, David Mateo (Spain), Beto Pinto (Perú), and I climbed a possible new route on the snowy southern face of Pongos Norte (5,680m), reaching a western subsummit. Although the main summit was first reached by its north face in 1964 and has b...

| Keywords Beto Pinto, andes, pongos, jatunllacsha
| Published 2019 | Author Alvaro Lafuente, Spain, with information from Beto Pinto, Perú


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Six New Routes in Peru’s Cusco Region Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Cordillera Urubamba

At the end of May, the prolific Spanish climber Oriol Baró and partners arrived in Cusco without plans or a set goal in mind, but knowing they would be able to find a real adventure. Like Baró, his teammates Ferran Rodriguez and Guillem Sancho wer...

| Keywords Nate Heald, Oriol Baro, andes
| Published 2019 | Author Nathan Heald


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huandoy Este, northeast face, Come Moco Spur (not to summit) Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Our team consisted of three people: Alessandro Fracchetti, Andrea Spezialli (both Italy), and I. Alessandro and I first attempted the northeast face of Huandoy Este (5,950m) in 2017, but we were stopped about 200m from the summit ridge due to poor...

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| Published 2019 | Author Renato Rodriguez


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huandoy Norte, East Face, BOYS 1970 Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Breathing rapidly, I try to get more air into my lungs, wordlessly opening my mouth as a fish would struggle for the last bits of oxygen. It is a nasty feeling to suffocate slowly. Especially when it is purely voluntary. Why am I doing it then? Th...

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| Published 2019 | Author Marek Holeček


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Siulá Grande, South-Southeast Face, Peruana Supreme Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

About five years ago, Peruvian climbing expert Sergio Ramirez Carrascal told me about a beautiful unclimbed ramp on the south side of Siulá Grande (ca 6,344m). Of the peak’s three main faces, the south is the least frequented, due to difficult acc...

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| Published 2019 | Author Nate Heald


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tukumach'ay, Southwest Face; Tunshu Central, Southwest Face to Southeast Ridge Peru, Cordillera Central

At the beginning of May, Pablo Rosagro and I visited the Pariacacca subrange in the Cordillera Central. We accessed the area from Canchayllo and installed our base camp at Lago Tembladera (4,480m). On May 9 we ascended the southwest face of Tukum...

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| Published 2019 | Author Sergi Ricart Ibars


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Putka Chico, South Face, Justo en las Ganas! Peru, Cordillera Blanca

From August 23–27, we (Simon Bustamante and Felipe Proaño) ventured to the Parón Valley, north of Huaraz. On August 25, after summiting La Esfinge by the 1985 route in about four hours, we spent the afternoon hiking over to scout a line up an int...

| Keywords Putaca, Esfinge, Paron, Parón
| Published 2019 | Author Felipe Proaño and Simon Bustamante


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Tornillo, Northwest Face, Burrito Chin de los Andes; Huanka Punta, Southwest Face, Cabeza Clava; Cashan West, Northeast Face, Andean Kingdom; Quebrada Llaca, Aupa Gasteiz Peru, Cordillera Blanca

For the quality and quantity of new routes—with heights always above 4,000m—and exploration, our expedition to the Peruvian Andes with Manu Ponce in June was one of the most important in our long career. Our Andean journey began south and east of ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Eneko Pou Iker Pou


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antachaire III, Southwest Face, Waiting for Axelle Peru, Cordillera Central

In May, Malu Espinoza (Peru), Beto Pinto Toledo (Peru), and I climbed the southwest face of Antachaire III (11°54'5.95"S, 76° 2'59.00"W). There are three Antachaire peaks—I (5,700m), II (5,650m), III (ca 5,670m)—that form a west to east chain. Ant...

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| Published 2019 | Author Guy Fonck


Feature Article AAJ
Runnel Vision: An 800-meter sport climb on Pedra Baiana Brazil

Pedra Baiana in the morning light. The 2019 route Runnel Vision (800m, 8a A0) climbs the prominent left-to-right dike on the shaded wall, eventually finishing up a prominent runnel in the central southeast face. The 2016 route Sangre Latina asce...

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| Published 2019 | Author Mike “Twid” Turner


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chon-turasu, North Face Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too

Max Ten on the east ridge of Chon-turasu, close to where he and Kirill Belotserkovskiy reached the ridge after climbing the north face. Photo by Kirill Belotserkovskiy Together with Zakir Abduraimov, Kolya Ovchinnikov, Grisha Schukin, and...

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| Published 2019 | Author Kirill Belotserkovskiy