American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26316 Records

Title Publication Year
Wild Adventures We Have Known: My Life With Willi Unsoeld
WILD ADVENTURES WE HAVE KNOWN: MY LIFE WITH WILLI UNSOELD.  Jolene Unsoeld, with lectures by Willi Unsoeld. Unsoeldsto- ries....
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
The Art of Freedom: The Life and Climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
THE ART OF FREEDOM: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF VOYTEK KURTYKA.  Bernadette McDonald. Rocky Mountain Books, 2017. Hard- cover, 256 pages, $32 (...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Allen Steck: A Mountaineer's Life
A MOUNTAINEER’S LIFE.  Allen Steck. Patagonia, 2017. 255 pages. Hardcover, 255 pages, $35. Readers of this treasure of an American memoir, packed ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Takphu North, Southwest Ridge from the East
In the autumn of 2016, a German Alpine Club (DAV) expedition under the leadership of Herbert Bader made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Panbari, South Ridge, Attempt
Leon Hiro Davis, Andres Marin, and I had planned on climbing Panbari (6,905m) for quite some time . It had been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Larkya Peak (Larkya Main), First Ascent by Southeast Face
Larkya Peak (6,416m) lies on the ridge north of Manaslu North and is visible from the northeast along the classic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Larkya Peak (Larkya Main), Southeast Face, Directa Ecuatoriana
While reaching the summit of Manaslu, Esteban Mena caught a glimpse of Larkya Peak (6,416m) and later had no trouble ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kyungka Ri, Southwest Face and Northwest Ridge, Attempts and Ascent
During the post-monsoon season there were a number of attempts on Kyungka Ri I (6,599m), an officially unclimbed peak close ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cerro Kishtwar, Northwest Face Direct, Har-Har Mahadev
In 2011 Denis Burdet, Robert Frost, David Lama, and Stephan Siegrist climbed Yoniverse on the northwest face and upper south ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rappel Anchor Failure – Trusting Old Gear
It was May 22, my fourth day living on the outskirts of Zion National Park. I had moved there for a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Slesse Mountain, Navigator Wall, First Winter Ascent; Labour Day Buttress and Station D, First Winter Ascents and New Route
The Slesse group from the east, showing (A) Labour Day Horn, (B) Station D, (C) South Peak, and (D) Slesse ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Complete Slesse Massif Traverse
At the end of August, Nick Elson and Julian Stoddart (Canada) did a one-day car-to-car traverse of the Slesse Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cheam Range, Lady Peak, North Face
On May 7, Brette Harrington and Marc-André Leclerc climbed the north face of Lady Peak (2,178m) in the Cheam Range, near ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Leaning Towers, The Pulpit, East Face
The Leaning Towers are a small group of granitic peaks in the heart of the Purcell Wilderness Conservatory in southeastern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Hector, South Ridge, Apollo
Local guide Mark Klassen spearheaded the first ascent of the south ridge of Mt. Hector (3,394m), above the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sujetando Aire
In the winter of 2017-’18, I spent two months in Colombia exploring different areas and climbing a few new lines ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Slesse, East Face, First Free Ascent
After five trips with four partners over two seasons, I completed the second ascent and first free ascent of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Exploratory Traverse and First Ascent of Nga Kangri
WHEN OUR SIX-MEMBER TEAM set out from Rongdo, a quaint village in Ladakh, we had little idea of our final ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Marikula Killa West Top (Miyar Shivling), Chodong Devling, and Other Ascents
In August 2017, having climbed several new routes in the Miyar Valley in the autumn of  2015 , Muriel Zucchini and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 6,113m, East-Northeast Spur, Attempt
A nine-member expedition led by Rudra Prasad Halder, with a three-man Sherpa support team, planned to attempt an unnamed and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 5,620m, East Ridge
In September, Hiroyoshi Manome, Makoto Kuroda, and Yukio Ueda from Japan left Tos (Tosh) village in the Kullu Valley and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Chugimago North, Northwest Face; Omi Tso Go, Northeast Ridge; Khang Kharpo, South-Southeast Ridge
On October 23, Miha Zupin and I left Slovenia for the Rolwaling, and on the 28th reached the village of Na (4,150...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 7,984', Attempt; Serendipity Spire, Charlie Zulu
“When is this storm gonna end?!” a local pilot asked. Speculation erupted from almost every weary patron in Conscious Coffee, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Esquinero, Northeast Face
On January 29, 2018, Szu-ting Yi and I met Juan Carlos Martinez, a fisherman in Villa La Angostura, Argentina. He warily eyed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Danger Zones: Mt. Hood
THOUGH THE EXACT number is unknown, the U.S. Forest Service estimates that at least 10,000 people attempt to climb Mt. ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2018
Avalanche Response: Physiology, Rescue, and Resuscitation
THIS ARTICLE outlines the causes of morbidity and mortality in avalanche incidents, as well as prudent and practical rescue steps ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2018
Fatal Ground Fall: Rope Likely Cut Over Edge
ON JULY 30, at 1:59 p.m., Yosemite dispatch was notified via a 911 call that a climber (Matt Price, male, 20s) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
South Sinai, New Routes
WITH THE HELP and encouragement of Dave Lucas, a British guide, Kyle Duba, Kyle Elmquist, Micah Rush, and I—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Jebel Misht, Fata Morgana
Becoming enthralled by a place—many people have experienced this after visiting Patagonia, Yosemite Valley, or other climbing destinations . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Speed Records and Traverses
On May 28, Andy and Jason Dorais set a fastest known time for Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge , approaching and climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Wilson, Tickled Rib
IN EARLY OCTOBER, Tom Bohanon and I spent several days climbing moderate classics in Red Rock Canyon. The rock climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mystery Towers, New Routes
In the spring of 2017, Jim Beyer soloed two hard aid routes in the Mystery Towers , adjacent to the Fisher Towers: ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Aiguille de Fleur, Russian Ties
Michael Goodhue and Vincent Keller climbed a new line up the east face of Aiguille de Fleur on the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Challenger Peak, Septem Virtutum Anima Mea
Over three stormy days in July, Elisha Gallegos and Daniel Schuerch put up a long technical route up the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Katmai National Park Traverse
Luc Mehl and Josh Mumm completed a 200-mile, 15-day ski traverse through Katmai National Park, at the northeast end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Chigmit Mountains, Double Glacier, Various Ascents
In mid-June, James Kesterson, Paul Muscat, Glenn Wilson, and I spent eight days mountaineering above the Double Glacier, at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Modern Classic: The South Ridge of Mt. Russell
Dana “Maddog” Drummond and I knew we were in for a good time when Paul Roderick admitted this was his ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Denali Season Summary and Speed Record
Forty-two percent of climbers registered to attempt Denali reached the summit in 2017, the lowest percentage since 2014 . More than 90 percent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nanga Parbat: Second Winter Ascent, First Complete Ascent of Northwest Face, and Rescue
Nanga Parbat from the northwest. Red is the upper section of the Mackiewicz-Revol route with Camp 4 marked. (C) is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
The Spectre, Variation to Original Route; Alpha Tower, First Ascent by North Face
THE SPECTRE, reminiscent of Fitz Roy, is located at 86°12.255’S, 148°28.294’W, in the Gothic Peaks (named by American scientist and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Gen Glacier Basin: Pik 5,610m, North Face, Pik Patkhor, North Face Attempt
Pete Dronkers and I (both U.S.) spent several weeks in August climbing in the central Rushan Range. We were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mindzhar Valley, Peak 5,860m, Northeast Ridge; Peak 5,914m, Attempt
In  AAJ 2017  I reported on first ascents near the Mindzhar Pass, around 30km west of Pik Lenin. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Eastern Borkoldoy, First Ascents from Kainar Lake
The Borkoldoy Range lies due south of Lake Issyk Kul and north of the Western Kokshaal-too mountains, and consists of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Laylak Valley, Pik Alexander Blok, West Face, Summer Bouquet
Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy, and I (Slovakia) spent seven weeks in Kyrgyzstan, from July 27–September 10, with the aim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rangtik Tokpo: Chakdor Ri, Jamyang Ri, and Other Ascents
Anastasija Davidova and I visited the valley of Rangtik Tokpo in 2016 ( AAJ 2017 ), and I decided to return in 2017 with Matjaz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Western Brook Pond, Dreamline
On February 21, Will Mayo, Anna Pfaff, and Joe Terravecchia (all USA) completed Dreamline, a huge “spray ice” route to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kijai Nala, Arjuna South, Southwest Pillar, Gandiva
Pete Graham and I have been climbing together in winter and on alpine terrain quite consistently for a few years. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ice and Mixed Roundup
In 2017 the focus for activists in the Canadian Rockies seemed to shift away from alpine routes toward ice and mixed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Wiencke Island, Monte Pizduch, Bloody Nose
In 2014 I climbed the south face of an unnamed peak on the east coast of Anvers Island, which I named ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tadrarate, La Grand Rouge
In search of new projects, Alexander Huber and I were drawn to the deep and impressive Taghia Gorge, especially to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018