Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Phandambiri and Montanha Filho Mozambique

Samuele Mazzolini solves the crux pitch (8a) of Templo dos Macacos on Montanha Filho. Photo by Manrico Dell'Agnola Phandambiri is a 1,436-meter granite monolith (18°1’25”S, 33°33’30”E) located on a private reserve in Macossa District in west-...

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| Published 2025 | Author Mirco Grasso


Feature Article AAJ
The Big Pointy One A Big Year for Mozambique Walls

The Malema massif, with (left to right) Malema Three, Two, and One. The 2025 route is on the opposite side of Malema One. Photo by Dakota Walz Mozambique is a land of unclimbed walls. Granite domes grow wild on every distant horizon of the sa...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dakota Walz


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Preface

With more articles and accident reports than in prior years, the 2026 ANAC is 16 pages longer than recent editions. I apologize to those of you who submitted a report that you do not see here; please understand the we had to make difficult decisio...

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| Published N/A | Author Pete Takeda


Feature Article AAJ
Committed on Yerupajá A New Route and Bold Traverse in Peru's Cordillera Huayhuash

The 2025 route up the east spur and east ridge of Nevado Yerupajá Grande (6,634m). The east spur was first climbed in 1969, accessed from the glacier to the right; the rock wall at the foot of the face had been climbed more than once as well. Be...

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| Published 2025 | Author Bru Busom


Feature Article ANAM
Know the Ropes: The Tangled Science of Climbing Knots and How They Can Fail

Photo by Luke Webster Although knots are an integral part of safety systems, their climbing applications have long been a matter mainly of tradition and habit, with rigorous empirical assessments trailing behind. Climbers throughout have been...

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| Published N/A | Author Robert Chisnall; Illustrations by Stephen Baklund


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Fall in Ski Boots California, Alpine County, Round Top

On April 24, a solo skier summited Round Top (10,381 feet), in the Sierra Nevada near the Kirkwood Mountain Resort ski area. After he summited, he traversed toward the Crescent Moon Couloir, his planned descent. On the traverse, the skier found hi...

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| Published 2025 | Author The Skier


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche — Partial Burial, Broken Leg New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine, Hillman's Highway

Tuckerman Ravine in full winter conditions. Photo: Jim Kelly On February 26, a solo skier descended Hillman’s Highway in Tuckerman Ravine under CONSIDERABLE avalanche hazard—wind slabs rated possible up to D2 on northeast, east, and south asp...

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| Published 2025 | Author Mt. Washington Avalanche Center


Accident Reports ANAM
Crevasse Fall — Fall into Crevasse Washington, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier

Daton Nestlebush emerges from a deep crevasse on Mt. Baker. When he fell, his snowboard tip caught on a small ice chunk four feet below the surface—only his arms and head were visible. Photo: Manny Pacheco On May 23 at 3 a.m., my longtime fri...

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| Published 2025 | Author Manny Pacheco


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake

The 3/4 Couloir at Moraine Lake, Alberta, was the scene of a fatal fall in May 2025. The higher yellow X marks where the skier fell, and the lower X marks where they came to rest. Photo: Parks Canada On May 27, three experienced local skiers ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Knee Stuck In Crack Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Provincial Park, Bugaboo Spire

In July 2025, a climber was stranded when his knee became stuck in an offwidth on the classic Kain Route—seen here as the left skyline of the right-hand formation (Bugaboo Spire). Photo: Edna Winti I, Nicholas Moline (26), and William Loopesk...

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| Published 2025 | Author Nicholas Moline


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Multiple Pieces of Protection Pulled Canada, British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Stanley Headwall

This injured climber fell 20 meters after pulling four pieces while leading the first pitch of Cosmik Debris (WI6 M6) on the Stanley Headwall. The route follows a line of drips left of the big waterfall behind the rescuer’s right shoulder. Photo...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Amputated Thumb — Loose Boulder Canada, British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Rangers Pass, Uto Peak

Even on popular routes, loose rock poses a hazard. The climber pictured here had his thumb amputated by a large, sliding block on Uto Peak shortly after this photo was taken. Photo: Matthew Speirs On July 5, Taylor MacLean (early 30s), Jon Go...

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| Published 2025 | Author Matthew Speirs


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Broken Hold, Ledge Impact Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Temple

In August 2025, a climber fell while attempting the Greenwood-Jones route on the North Face of Mt. Temple. In this photo, a Parks Canada Rescue Technician approaches the fallen climber. Photo: Parks Canada On August 24, a party of two was cli...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Leader Pulls Off Loose Block Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade Mountain

Rescue scene on the Hendo Spur, Cascade Mountain. The party is visible in the yellow circle. Photo: Parks Canada On July 19, a party of three was ascending the summit ridge of the Hendo Spur, the East Ridge of Cascade Mountain (2,998m). While...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Climber Struck By Falling Ice — Poor Position, Summited Late in the Day Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Icefields Parkway, Murchison Falls

On March 2, two experienced climbers set out to climb Murchison Falls (III WI4/5) along the Icefields Parkway. They left the parking area around 7 a.m. in temperatures of 16°F/-9°C, with a forecasted high of 36°F/2°C. Sun was expected later in the...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error on Ice — Ankle Fracture Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Tangle Creek Falls

I, Karl Parkinson (32), was climbing with a group at Tangle Creek Falls (WI 2/3), a beginner-friendly ice crag in Jasper National Park. The group was a mix of experienced and beginner ice climbers. My belayer was an ice climbing novice in their 50...

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| Published 2025 | Author Karl Parkinson


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Inexperience Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mt. Athabasca

The climber (barely visible in the yellow circle) stranded on Athabasca. Photo: Parks Canada On July 21, Parks Canada received a phone call that an individual was stranded partway up the southeast side of Mt. Athabasca (3,491m). They stated t...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Inexperience Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, CR5A Peak

 A stranded pair of climbers (red circle) on Hallway to Heaven as viewed from the rescue helicopter. The 5.9 crux roof is above the stranded climbers. Incapable of climbing to the top and too inexperienced to rappel on gear anchors, this pair el...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Short Fall — Slip, Ankle Injury Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mt. Alberta

Mt. Alberta’s Japanese Route is one of the most coveted objectives in the Canadian Rockies. It is a long, committing, and historically significant climb on a difficult and remote peak. It requires the standard Rockies skill set and the logistics...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Rappel-Dislodged Rock, Head Laceration Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Morro Peak

Site of the stranding on Morro Peak. Photo: Parks Canada On August 5, a group of four climbers was ascending Limestone Highway, a 12-pitch 5.7 sport route on Morro Peak (1,679m) in Jasper National Park. Five pitches up, the party realized the...

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| Published 2025 | Author Parks Canada