Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bautaen, Origo Nights Norway, Spitzbergen

The east face of Bautaen and the line of Origo Heights. The fjord of Hornsund lies in southern Spitzbergen (Svalbard), and on the south coast of its inner waters lies the small peak called Bautaen (76.97086°N, 16.38613°E). This is a remote su...

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| Published 2019 | Author Krister Jonsson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bautaen, Origo Nights Norway, Spitzbergen

The fjord of Hornsund lies in southern Spitzbergen (Svalbard), and on the south coast of its inner waters lies the small peak called Bautaen (76.97086°N, 16.38613°E). This is a remote summit and I am not aware of routes being climbed there. I clim...

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| Published 2019 | Author Krister Jonsson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jeff's Test Testing

This is where article content will live. This is edited content.

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| Published 2020 | Author Jeff Weinberg


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kugelhorn, North Face, Vind för Våg Norway, Nordland

The Kugelhorn (68.25592°N, 16.47003°E) in the Efjorden region is perhaps best known for its classic east ridge (Ostkammen, Norwegian 5-/5). The north face is steep and extensive, and to date there have been only a few routes: the North Slope (5 pi...

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| Published 2019 | Author Information from Krister Jonsson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Geshot Peak, Northwest Spur and West Face Pakistan, Himalaya

The mountain locally named Geshot Peak (a.k.a. Toshe III or Toshain III, 6,200m, 35°8'44.44"N, 74°24'14.92"E) lies about 20km southwest of the summit of Nanga Parbat. On June 29, I made the first ascent of the peak, starting from the Bunar Valley ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Simon Messner


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Ushat, Historical Corrections Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Ushat-too

In AAJ 2019 we reported the presumed first ascent of Pik Ushat by an Australian expedition. However, this was not the first ascent, nor even the second, as noted in the following report from a two-man team that visited the area in 2002.After an al...

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| Published 2002 | Author Markus Kautz


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Waddington, Complete West Ridge Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges

“Hey, Simon, I’d like to go somewhere big like Waddington rather than go rock climbing on obscure spires.”Well, I thought, that’s raised the bar.Ian Welsted and I were discussing climbing objectives for our Coast Mountains trip in the summer. “Wel...

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| Published 2019 | Author Simon Richardson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Daniels River Valley, Super Unknown, Schneider Quits Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges

I returned to British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast this summer for another season of exploration and route development in the Daniels River Valley, funded in part by an AAC Live Your Dream grant. At the end of July, a weather window finally appeared ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Colin Landeck


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Agamau, North Face and Northeast Ridge; Pik Buffy, Location Correction Tajikistan, Pamir, Muzkol Range

In 2017, from the vicinity of Ak Baital Pass on the Pamir Highway, I photographed a peak at 38°32’12.0”N, 73°28’28.5”E with an altitude of 5,553m, according to the Soviet military map. Lying west of the Ak Baital Valley in the southeast part of th...

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| Published 2019 | Author Juda Tadeusz Dzięgielewski


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Combatant, Peaceful Warrior Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Waddington Range, Tiedemann Group

Paul Cordy, Tony Richardson, and I flew to the Waddington-Combatant col with White Saddle Air on August 5, aiming to take advantage of a brief weather window. We planned to warm up on Mt. Combatant (3,756m) via Cam Cairns and Michael Down’s 1982 r...

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| Published 2019 | Author Paul McSorley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Hongu, Northeast Face, First Recorded Ascent Nepal, Malahangur Himal – Barun Section

Pemba Sherpa (Nepal) and Hiroki Nakayama (Japan) approached Hongu (6,764m, a.k.a. Hongku, Honku, or Sura Peak, 27°49'34.7"N, 86°58'37.6"E) in October via the Hinku and Hongu valleys. Base camp and Camp 1 were in identical locations to the camps us...

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| Published 2019 | Author Hiroki Nakayama


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Muztagh Tower, Black Tooth, East Ridge and Traverse Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

Philipp Brugger, Martin Sieberer (both from Austria), and I trekked up the Baltoro Glacier in July with the intention of making the first ascent of Muztagh Tower's Black Tooth (6,719m). In 2016 two Germans attempted the ascent via the southeast ri...

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| Published 2019 | Author Simon Messner


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Historical Notes on Palung Ri and the North-Northwest Ridge of Cho Oyu China, Tibet, Mahalangur Himal

Many sources (including the AAJ) have credited the first ascent of Palung Ri (7,012m) to Slovenians Andrej and Marija Štremfelj, who climbed the south-southeast ridge in 1995 as acclimatization for an ascent of Cho Oyu. Palung Ri lies immediately ...

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| Published 1992 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huayna Potosí, Double Traverse, Ski Descents Bolivia, Cordillera Real

Seeking new ways to explore familiar Huayna Potosí, on which I often guide, I planned an extended ski tour over the 6,088-meter mountain in April. After spending the night in the Anselme Baud Hut at 5,270m, the highest hut on the south side, I sta...

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| Published 2019 | Author Robert Rauch


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Condoriri Group, Pico Austria, Southeast Face Bolivia, Cordillera Real

In 2009, on the Fortaleza Buttress of Pico Austria (5,320m), Gerry Galligan (Ireland) and Rob MacCallum (U.K.) climbed a line up the east ridge to give Caporales Celtica (350m, AD, British V-Diff), a good route on sound rock. Ten years later, in M...

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| Published 2019 | Author David Vitale


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Himaciña, Southeast Ridge Bolivia, Cordillera Real

On October 16, the day after climbing Surapatilla (see report here), Chris Knight and I left our camp at 4 a.m. to climb Himaciña (5,458m, as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°0'28.99"S, 68°21'43.16"W; Google Earth’s imagery is incorrectly flattened ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chhopa Bamare, First Ascent by Southeast Face and South Ridge Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

In February and March, John Kelley (USA) and I were in the northwestern Rolwaling to attempt the first ascent of Chhopa Bamare (6,109m, 28°3'28.67"N, 86°5'23.08"E), the highest of a group of peaks on the Tibetan border northwest of Lamabagar vill...

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| Published 2019 | Author Benjamin Billet


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Gyalsten, South-southeast Face Nepal, Jugal Himal

Gyalsten seen from the Jugal Glacier above advanced base. The line followed on the first ascent, via the south-southeast face, is marked. A col on the frontier ridge, off picture to the right, was reached in 1955 by a British women's expedition. ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tul Singh Gurung and Rodolphe Popier


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 41, Northeast Face Nepal, Malahangur Himal – Khumbu Section

Previously unreported was the first ascent of the northeast face of Peak 41 (6,648m) by a Korean team in 2016. The ascent remained under the radar, even in Korea, likely because of the use of a helicopter for descent.The climbers arrived at their ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Rodolphe Popier and Kim Dong-soo


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Blåtinden, East Face Norway, Lyngen – Uløya Island

On July 23 we completed the first rock route on the east face of Blåtinden (1,142m), which we named Uløya, Welcome to (360m, Norwegian VI+). Our ascent took seven hours, during which we used neither bolts nor pitons. The rock is sharp, shattered a...

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| Published 2019 | Author Gosia Jurewicz and Jozek Soszynski