Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jebel Nassrani North, Land and Freedom Jordan, Wadi Rum

Over two days in November, Rémi Laborde, Stéphane Marigot, and Christian Ravier from France climbed Land and Freedom (630m, 6b+) on the north face of Jebel Nassrani North. The climbers followed the first five pitches of a route called Sabbah’s Hom...

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| Published 2025 | Author The Editors


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Demirkazik, North Face, Close to Heaven Turkey, Aladaglar

The 700-meter north face of Demirkazık (3,756m), showing the approximate lines of (1) Close to Heaven (2025) and (2) Jamieson-Friend Route (1972, first ascent of the face). Photo: Federica Mingolla Collection In August, Rolando Larcher and hi...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dougald MacDonald


In Memoriam AAJ
Christopher S. Wren, 1936–2026

Christopher Wren, 1936-2026. Photo by Eli Burakian/Dartmouth Alumni Magazine Christopher S. Wren, New York Times bureau chief in Moscow, Cairo, Beijing, Ottawa, and Johannesburg; foreign correspondent who covered major events such as Anwar Sa...

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| Published 2026 | Author Samuel C. Silverstein, M.D.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Upernavik and Other Areas, Six Historical Ascents Greenland, West Greenland

Scoping potential lines on Kangeq Island from the yacht Civetta. Photo by Martin Krasňanský The idea to climb in the Upernavik area originated with Dodo’s Delight, a 2016 film featuring climbs above the Arctic Circle, accessed by sailboat. Di...

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| Published 2019 | Author Martin Krasňanský


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Titan II, Southwest Face Greenland, South Greenland, Kangikitsoq Fjord

Titan II rises 1,736 meters above Kangikitsoq Fjord. Rafale (1,200m, 7a) on the southwest face is shown. Titan I (1,811m) is just to the left. Photo by Luca Rosales In July 2025, we—Luca Rosales and Marco Dattolo, both of Grenoble, France—est...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marco Dattolo and Luca Rosales


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ulamertorssuaq, Northwest Face, Big Kumura; Honey Buttress, Manuka Greenland, South Greenland, Tasermiut Fjord

The line of Big Kumura (1,300m, 5.10+ C2 R) on the northwest face of Ulamertorssuaq. All prior routes climbed the big pillar and spire-topped face to the left. Photo by New Zealand Alpine Team Six members of the New Zealand Alpine Team made a...

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| Published 2025 | Author New Zealand Alpine Team, alpineteam.co.nz


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Graahs Fjord and Skjoldungen, Various Ascents Greenland, East Greenland

Melanie Tenorio leading a pitch of Geraldine (740m, 6c A1), one of two parallel routes climbed on the south-facing Caval’ou Wall, above Mørkesund. Photo by Ramona Waldner On July 20, the all-woman team of Naomie Bürki, Pauline Laubscher, Gian...

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| Published 2025 | Author Caro North


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ikamiut Fjord, Three New Routes Greenland, West Greenland, Sukkertoppen (Maniitsoq) Ice Cap Area

Haulbag zipline trickery after the “loop” pitch on Simon’s Route (868m, 16 pitches, E3 6a/A1). Photo by Ben Kent  Robbie Milne, a 22-year-old ski instructor from France, and I, a 26-year-old climber from England’s Lake District, touched down ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Ben Kent


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Lochari, north ridge; Rimuza, north face China, Tibet, Gangdise Range

The unclimbed north face of Jungmai Xuewai Kangri seen from Rutog.Photo by Zhou Taozhu In August 2024, I made the first recorded ascent of Lochari (6,090m, 33°16’51.03”N, 79°48’11.91”E) from the north. This peak is located in the Gangdise Ran...

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| Published 2025 | Author Taozhu Zhou


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Xue Yue Feng, climbs from the west China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range

In the side valley east of the Riwaugie Valley, with (X) marking Xue Yue Feng. Photo by Fang Zhan Xue Yue Feng (5,616m, 29°44'28.82"N, 101°50'51.87"E) is a top with low prominence on the watershed ridge immediately northeast of Reddomain (6,1...

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| Published 2025 | Author Fang Zhan


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Siguniang, north ridge China, Sichuan, Qionglai Shan, Siguniang National Park

Seen from the west, (A) Peak 5,700m (a.k.a. Long Gorge), (B) Siguniang North (5,900m), and (C) Siguniang (6,250m). Marked is the 2024 ascent of the north ridge. Photo by Zhang Qingwei/Zhou Song  The north ridge of Siguniang (6,250m), the high...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nyanchen Tanglha East, Sendho, first ascent, via east face China, Tibet

Following his first ascents in 2024 of Chuchepo and Jiongmudzhi, Tong Haijun returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha in 2025 with Huang Siyuan. Their goal was unclimbed Sendho (6,620m, PLA map; GPS measurement 6,643m, 30°18'29.61"N, 93°32'20.94"E), a lit...

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| Published 2025 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Minya Konka, north spur and northeast ridge, ascent to highest point China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan

On the north spur of Minya Konka during the 2024 ascent. Photo by Minya Konka Expedition In October 2018, Li Zongli and Tong Haijun made an alpine-style ascent of Minya Konka (Gongga Shan, 7,556m), climbing a new route up the north spur and n...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Lotus Flower Mountain, north face China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Lotus Flower Mountain Group

The north face of Lotus Flower Mountain with the two bivouacs made during the ascent. Photo by Xiang Shuxiang/Wang Kun The Lotus Flower Mountain Group, which lies a little over 20 kilometers due north of Kangding in the Garze Tibetan Autonomo...

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| Published 2025 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kangmi Kangri, northwest ridge and northwest face China, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri Group

Climbers on the summit of Kangmi Kangri. Photo by Kangmi Kangri Expedition  Kangmi Kangri (6,412m, 28°16’36.33”N, 90°40’23.70”E) lies immediately northeast of Karjiang across the high plateau of the upper Karaqangjing Glacier. On May 19, 2024...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Guoraka Ri, north top, north face China, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri Group

The unclimbed ridge leading south to the main summit of Guoraka Ri. Photo by Guoraka Ri Expedition Guoraka Ri (a.k.a. Guolha Kangri or Guolaka Ri, 6,548m, 28°18’36.30”N, 90°42’57.25”E) forms the end of the long ridge of high peaks that runs n...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Genyen Range, Two First Ascents China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan

Grad Kristalov on Peak 5,600m seen from the north above the Garmunei Gou. Photo by Luka Lindič China offers some of the greatest potential for first ascents anywhere in the world. The extent of its mountain ranges is difficult to comprehend, ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Luka Lindič


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nerutusôq Glacier and Fork Beard Glacier, Seven First Ascents Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park

An aerial view to the east over the Fork Bear Glacier complex, showing the 2025 team's exploration of the area. Photo by Tom Harding  In April 2025, a four-person team made up of Leanne Dyke, James Hoyes, Ben James, and I flew into the settle...

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| Published 2025 | Author Tom Harding


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Karjiang, Second Ascent China, Tibet, Himalaya

One month after the first ascent of 7,221-meter Karjiang in August 2024 (AAJ 2025), Huang Siyuan and Tong Zhanghao made the second ascent by a slightly more direct line. The two parties had independently planned attempts on the mountain at the beg...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Recent Mountaineering Developments in Parts of Tibet China, Tibet

In recent years, a number of young Chinese alpinists, having learned their craft in Sichuan and put up new routes in their home mountains, are extending their vision to the less explored regions of Tibet. Because of the development of extensive in...

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| Published 2025 | Author Xia Zhongming