Sam Boyce on Calcifer’s Ridge on the north side of Mt. Redoubt. Behind, a pillar of smoke rises from a day-old fire in Perry Creek. The fire and smoke became inspiration for the route’s name. Photo by Lani Chapko On a mission into the Depot C...
Marshall Trautman climbing pitch five (A2) of Mother of Exiles, shortly before he whipped and blew a Screamer. Photo by Mark Allen A long-overlooked sheer wall looms in the Washington Pass area, northeast of Wallaby Peak in the Cedar Creek ba...
The line of the first ascent of Khudopin Sar (6,458m GPS), by the south couloir and northwest ridge, in October 2025. Photo by Gaëtan Navarrete Julien Priour and I were in the Shimshal area in October. After finding very dry and unfavorable c...
The west ridge of Cherireen Sar (6,224m GPS), climbed in July 2025 to make the first ascent of the mountain. Photo by Vincent Woerle I met Lukas Woerle (Austria) in 2022 at Gasherbrum base camp. Two years later, by coincidence, we met again a...
Nick Roy on the northeast ridge of Easy Mox in January 2025. Photo by Eric Gilbertson Despite the name, Easy Mox (8,397’, 48.948747, -121.262656) is considered one of the most difficult of the Bulgers (Washington’s 100 highest peaks) to climb...
Close-up of the upper southwest face of Lincoln Peak, with the April 2025 ski route by the X Couloir marked. Photo by John Scurlock On a solo venture on April 14, I carried out what was probably the first complete ski descent of Lincoln Peak...
The nearly mile-high northeast face of Johannesburg Mountain, with the line of Route 66, likely the first new route up the face in decades. Older routes are not shown. Photo by John Scurlock I’d been curious about the hanging northeast face o...
Jurau A from the northeast, with the approximate lines of (1) Chancos y Chacras (2018) to just below the top, and (2) Kuntur (2025) to the northeast summit. Photo by Koky Castañeda Over three days in June, we climbed to the northeast top of J...
Cerro El Brujo from the west. The south ridge is the right skyline, climbed in November 2025 to the south summit (center). The ascent gained about 2,300 meters. Photo by José Antonio Mena | AndesHandbook.org Cerro El Brujo is a large massif n...
Jon Griffin, Thomas Huber, and I had visited the Choktoi Glacier in 2024, our goals the west summit of Suma Brakk and the southeast pillar of Latok III. Initially, the weather was stunning, but as our preparation was beginning to pay off, we were ...
The German Alpine Club organizes a three-year program—DAV Expedition Teams—to encourage young alpinists to explore unclimbed routes. At the end of the 2007–2009 program, an eight-member team traveled to the Hunza Valley for a six-week trip. The hi...
Hunza Peak (6,270m) had been our goal in 2024 as part of the acclimatization plan before the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (AAJ 2025). Some illness meant we only had time to concentrate on the main target, but our desire to climb Hunza remained. ...
I first saw a photo of the stunning north buttress of unclimbed Dansam (a.k.a. K13, 6,666m, 35°12'12.24"N, 76°45'36.47"E) in 2021. At the time, it felt like a distant dream, but it became my compass and helped guide the direction of my climbing fo...
The upper west face of Tirich Mir (7,708m). (1) The normal route (1967); several different lines have been followed above the 7,200-meter col. (2) The approximate line climbed in 2025. The year 2025 marked the seventy-fifth anniversary of the...
The south face of Chumik Kangri, showing the route of the first ascent (red line) and the descent along the west ridge. Photo by Wadim Jabłoński From September 12 to 14, Wadim Jabłoński (Poland), Adam Kaniak (Slovakia), and I made the first ...
In July, Denis Urubko (Russia) and I completed a new line on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat (8,125m), climbing in alpine style, with no fixed ropes during the ascent and no assistance from other climbers. We reached the summit on July 10, our fif...
We (Andrew Attfield and James O’Sullivan) flew to the town of Simikot in western Nepal in early September. From there, we headed east, then north, up the Dojam Valley, eventually branching left into the Nin Khola. On reaching a spot known as Sumna...
Numbur (6,958m, 27°45’17.57”N, 86°34’20.65”E) is a shapely pyramid south of Tengkangpoche that was first climbed in 1963 by a Japanese expedition, via the southwest ridge. Prior to 2025, in addition to repeats of the southwest ridge, there had bee...
Summit ridge of Manaslu, 8,150 meters, October 22. Sergei Kondrashkin leading, Kirill Eizeman on belay. Photo by Andrey Vasilyev In 1972, a Tyrolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz completed the third ascent of Manaslu (8,163m) by a new rout...
François Cazzanelli on the south-southeast ridge of Kimshung, with Langtang Lirung behind. Photo by Damiano Levati Lukas Waldner and I arrived in Kathmandu on October 5, and after one night there continued by jeep on flooded roads to Syabrube...