Accident Reports ANAM
Fall During Walk-Off California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench

On August 8, at 3:45 p.m., Yosemite dispatch received a 911 call from a distressed individual who stated that one of their climbing partners had fallen off a cliff while descending from Sunnyside Bench. His friends had traversed to the base of the...

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| Published 2024 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Near Miss, Rock Dislodged on Rappel California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches

Royal Arches takes a remarkably moderate line up the buttress to the left of the massive arch, pictured above. On Memorial Day, crowding on the rappel descent prompted one team to take a shortcut. This instigated rockfall that nearly killed or s...

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| Published 2024 | Author Anonymous Climber


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock

On October 14, at approximately 5:30 p.m., a climber on the East Buttress of Lower Cathedral (IV 5.10+) was struck on the head by a football-sized rock dislodged by their partner. The climber was bleeding but remained responsive to verbal stimuli....

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| Published 2024 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Fall on Slab — Descending Unroped, Mosquito Swarms California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Tenaya Peak

This photo of Tenaya Peak shows a section of the descent (red line). The end of the red line marks where an unroped climber slipped and fell. The yellow arrowed X shows where the 70-foot fall ended. Photo: Russell Bengert On June 13, my longt...

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| Published 2024 | Author Russell Bangert


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall From Anchor — Rope Detached from Open Anchor California, Bay Area, Mt. Diablo State Park

This ram’s horn anchor on a route called Two for One in Mt. Diablo State Park was involved in a near-fatal accident in October. It is possible the climber did not set the rope in the lowest and most secure position in the horns before she attemp...

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| Published 2024 | Author Jenna Chan, Bay Area Climbers Coalition and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall on Rock — Climbing in Hiking Boots California, South Lake Tahoe, Pie Shop

My name is Mac (13), and on June 4 I was involved in a rescue at Pie Shop. The people on the spot were Steve (71), Angela, my dad, and Dr. Michael. Steve was going to teach Angela about climbing outside. We got to our climbing spot, and my dad wa...

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| Published 2024 | Author Mac Miller


Accident Reports ANAM
Hypothermia California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

On June 2, an early-to-mid-20s climber descending Avalanche Gulch returned to Helen Lake (10,400 feet) with symptoms of mild hypothermia. Climbing rangers Eric Falconer and Hayden MacArthur were notified of the individual’s condition by his two cl...

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| Published 2024 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

Mt. Shasta is a breathtaking and often crowded experience, with a fair share of avalanches and rockfall. Photo: Jack Dolan On May 26, over the Memorial Day weekend, shortly before 9:15 a.m., a solo male climber (51) descending Avalanche Gulch...

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| Published 2024 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

On May 3 at approximately 10:30 a.m., a solo climber ascending Casaval Ridge ventured off route, traversing onto a south-southeast slope approximately 1,000 vertical feet above Olberman’s upper moraine in Avalanche Gulch. The climber triggered a w...

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| Published 2024 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Shasta Season Summary California, Mt. Shasta

Aerial view of Mt. Shasta (14,179 feet). The Shasta tribe called this symmetric peak: Waka-nunee-Tuki-wuki; the Karuk tribe: Úytaahkoo. Photo: Ewen Denney — Wikipedia The 2024 climbing season began strong in mid-April, with excellent snow cov...

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| Published 2024 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall From Anchor — Unfamiliar Knot Arizona, Queen Creek, The Pond

On January 30, Claire Amiel (34) fell while cleaning an anchor on a sport route at the popular Pond area in Queen Creek. The fall from the anchor, resulted in her death. According to a source that wishes to remain anonymous, Amiel was the less ex...

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| Published 2024 | Author Anonymous, John Godino and The Editors


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Gap Between Pads Arizona, Indoor Gym

I had traveled from out of state to visit a friend, and on February 14 I figured I’d check out the bouldering at a local gym. About an hour into my session, I slid off a slab problem about six to eight feet off the mats. When I landed, my right fo...

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| Published 2024 | Author Connor Fiatal


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Climbing Fall — Possible Fixed Protection Failure Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Johnson, The Escalator

In April 2024, Robbi Mecus died in a fall while descending The Escalator (4,400 feet, 5.5 AI3) on Mt. Johnson. Her climbing partner survived despite critical injuries. Their line of ascent is marked in red. The route’s upper half is hidden from ...

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| Published 2024 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers and Outside oniine


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, Cassin Ridge

The 2024 climbing season was marked by calm, clear periods coinciding with very low temperatures. During one of these cold spells, a climber, high on the committing Cassin Ridge—the central rib leading to the summit—suffered a severe/deep and li...

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| Published 2024 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall — Solo Climbing Alaska, Denali, West Buttress Route, Denali Pass

On May 19, the NPS was contacted by a concerned family member of a Japanese solo climber named T. Hagiwara (mid-40s). He was on the West Buttress Route and was last heard from on May 13. Until that date, the climber had been regularly texting via ...

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| Published 2024 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Hypothermia — Exhaustion, High Altitude Illness, Frostbite Alaska, Denali, West Buttress Route, Summit Ridge

On May 28, at 1 a.m., NPS personnel received an alert from an emergency satellite device requesting evacuation of three climbers who were near the summit of Denali (Mt. McKinley). The climbers, all from Malaysia, reported they were hypothermic and...

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| Published 2024 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Denali National Park Accident Summary Alaska

Denali mountaineering rangers and volunteers assessed 34 patients during the 2024 climbing season. Among those, 27 patients were treated by National Park Service (NPS) personnel, and 25 required NPS evacuation. The remaining two were treated and r...

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| Published 2024 | Author Denali Mountaineering Handbook


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huandoy Sur, South Face, French Route Peru, Cordillera Blanca

After the Japanese and then the Italians made their respective routes on Huandoy Sur’s south face (see reports here and here), a French expedition attacked the face. The French were led by René Desmaison and composed of Pascal Ottmann, Maurice Fai...

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| Published 1976 | Author The Editors


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huandoy Sur, South Face Peru, Cordillera Blanca

On June 8 we arrived at Base Camp at 12,500 feet on the Llanganuco Lakes. We should have taken time for acclimatization, but perhaps because we knew the Japanese were already on the wall, of which we caught glimpses through the clouds, the next da...

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| Published 1976 | Author Franco Nembrini


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Huandoy Sur, South Face, and Chacraraju Este, South Face Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Our expedition consisted of Kunihiko Kondo, climbing leader, Masaru Hashimoto, Tetsuya Ishii, Masatoshi Yoshino, Shuzo Manabe, Yasuhide Hayashi, Terue Katayama, Ms. Yuriko Hashimoto and me as leader. We established Base Camp on the Llanganuco Lake...

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| Published 1976 | Author Ikuo Kakimoto