The Czech line on the northwest face of Chamlang (7,321 meters). The climb and descent took seven nights away from base camp; the seventh bivy site is hidden. (H) marks the high point of the 2019 French attempt on Chamlang’s north pillar. The ph...
(A) Changi Tower. (B) K6 Main. (C) Link Sar (7,041m) from the southeast, showing the line of the 2019 ascent, advanced base camp, and bivouacs. Stocking ABC at 4,700 meters (1,000 meters above base camp) with weeks of supplies was a crucial stra...
The rounded summit of Peak 6,130m seen from the northwest on the high glacier below the south face of Langshisha Ri. The French team climbed the right skyline. Photo by: Pierre Rizzardo Taking a permit for Langshisha Ri (6,412m), the Fr...
Unclimbed Gyaekochen (6,107m) from the northwest. Photo by: Paolo Grobel Dolpo is considered a land for trekkers, not a destination for mountaineers. However, there are beautiful peaks: not necessarily all that high, but wild and rem...
Ardang (6,034m) from the north, showing the Canadian first ascent (with two camps) in red and the British attempt on the northeast ridge in blue. Photo by: Emily Ward In late autumn, two teams attempted unclimbed Ardang (6,034m) in the Limi ...
Seen from the east: (A) Amotsang, (B) Jomson Peak, and (C) Margot Peak. The solo first ascent of Amotsang was by the south ridge, beyond the left skyline. Photo by: Paulo Grobel Amotsang (6,393m, 28°50'5.76"N, 84°10'13.19"E) was brought on...
Our planned objective for 2019 was a new route on Tirich Mir, the highest peak in the Hindu Kush. However, by the time we arrived in Pakistan, Kazuya Hiraide and I still had not received a permit, and so we went to Gilgit to reconnoiter another ob...
The route line for Luka Lindič, Ines Papert, and Brette Harrington's The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) on the east face of Mt. Fay in the Valley of Ten Peaks. The original route (1985) finished up and right from the snowfield at two-thirds he...
When I heard that Steve Wunsch had died, and how he had, until the end, kept his cancer private, an Irish song, “Johnny, I Hardly Knew Ye” came to mind, and I realized that during all the time we traveled together, the climbs, the successes, the f...
Bob Swift began backpacking in the Boy Scouts and took up climbing with the Sierra Club as a teenager. There were practice climbs at Berkeley’s Cragmont and Indian Rocks, learning from the likes of David Brower and Richard Leonard, who had been cu...
Jess Fenton Roskelley was born in Spokane, Washington, on July 13, 1982. He graduated from Mt. Spokane High School in 2001 and attended the University of Montana for two years before embarking on an expedition to climb Everest with his father, Joh...
Dee Molenaar, an international mountaineering legend, geologist, and artist, passed away on January 19, 2020. He was 101. Throughout his life, Dee demonstrated great generosity, getting as much satisfaction from helping others achieve their mount...
Wayne Procter Merry passed away at home in Atlin, British Columbia, on October 30, 2019. He was 88. Wayne lived a consequential and deeply satisfying life as a trailblazer in a variety of arenas: big-wall climbing, national park administration, se...
For the millennial generation, those born between 1981 and 1996, there is no climber that systematically challenged and defined the standards and disciplines of mountain sports as David Lama did. When we lose exceptional people at much too young a...
Brad Gobright grew up in Orange County, California, along with his sister, Jill, three years his junior. His parents, Pam and Jim, who are avid hikers, brought the family to Lone Pine Lake in the Sierra Nevada when Gobright was 4, cementing his lo...
“You should come have dinner with my brother, John. He’s done some climbing,” Rick Evans said in a meeting one day. My brain didn’t make the connection between this guy who had “done some climbing” and the John Evans who was a hero of mine sinc...
Helmut Fritz Beckey, known as Helmy, was born in Seattle and died in Munich, Germany, at age 93. In his youth, he established first ascents and new routes throughout the Cascades and elsewhere. Helmy learned the basics of climbing as a member of ...
Hansjörg Auer was born February 18, 1984, and was raised on his family’s alpine farm in the Ötztal valley of Tirol, Austria. He grew up in an environment where climbing came naturally. Before he’d even reached the age of ten, he’d already ...
Max Didier (Chile), Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak (both USA), and I had met the year before in El Chaltén and talked about doing an expedition together. In February 2020, it happened: We got ambitious, formed a team of friends, and set out to explore ...
On January 18, 2020, Marine Israel (France), Jeffrey Buckley, August Uribe, and Oscar Uribe (USA), and I departed via the maritime vessel Alakush from Caleta María (Azopardo Bay) in Chile, headed for the eastern Cordillera Darwin. We sailed southw...