Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pine Creek Pass and Granite Park Areas, Three New Routes California, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra

How does one determine whether it’s a climbing trip with some fishing, or a fishing trip with some climbing? From August 9 to 16, Mike Hathorn, Dan Wolfskill, and I enjoyed a multisport week, catching several dozen trout and three new climbs in th...

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| Published 2024 | Author Zach Lovell


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Royce Lakes Basin, Royce Peak, Two New Routes California, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra

In July 2024, Matt O’Brien and I hiked 11 miles up to Royce Lakes Basin, a beautiful area with three large alpine lakes surrounded by towering peaks. We spent several days there, during which we established two new alpine rock routes. On our seco...

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| Published 2024 | Author Matt Carpenter


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Abbot, Northwest Face, Warning Shot California, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra

To access the remote northwest face of Mt. Abbot (13,715’), I hiked in from Mosquito Flat trailhead to the east, past Ruby Lake and Mills Lake, to Abbot’s northeast side. On October 9, the bulletproof ice (AI2) of the Petit Griffon Couloir (leadin...

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| Published 2024 | Author Trevor Shumaker


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Shrinking Summits on Rainier and Other High Peaks in Washington Washington, Cascades

Eric Gilbertson with the differential GPS at the new summit of Mt. Rainier on the southwest rim, with Columbia Crest in the background. Photo by Ross Wallette.  Between August and October, with the help of climbing partners Saulius Bračiulis,...

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| Published 2024 | Author Eric Gilbertson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jabberwocky Tower, Song of the Summer Washington, Cascades, Stuart Range

Jabberwocky Tower is a unique peak just east of Colchuck Lake in the Enchantments, visible from various spots nearby. Hundreds of people walk by Jabberwocky on a summer weekend without giving it a second look, but the formation was first climbed d...

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| Published 2024 | Author Wayne Wallace


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Choral Peak, Northwest Face Washington, North Cascades

Choral Peak (7,972’), in the Entiat Mountains, is one of the 200 highest peaks in Washington, with a popular scramble on its east face. It also has a steep northwest face below a large snow bowl—the perfect combination to form an alpine ice route....

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| Published 2024 | Author Eric Gilbertson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Boston Peak, First Winter Ascent Washington, North Cascades

By 2024, Boston Peak (8,883’) was likely the tallest peak in Washington that had never been climbed in winter. Located in North Cascades National Park, it is usually climbed in summer via the fourth-class east face. I’d photographed all sides of t...

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| Published 2024 | Author Eric Gilbertson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Castle Peak, North Face, Ripped Settee Washington, North Cascades

On September 8, Sean Reckert and I climbed what we think is a new route on the central buttress of the north face of Castle Peak (8,306’) in the Pasayten Wilderness. Our line, Ripped Settee (1,200’, 11 pitches, IV 5.12a A0), is east (climber’s lef...

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| Published 2024 | Author Spencer Gray


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Khumjungar, First Ascent, Via South-southwest Face Nepal, Damodar Himal

The first ascent of Khumjungar (a.k.a. Khamjung, 6,750m, 28°53’19.65”N, 84°7’37.07”E) was undertaken by the “Project Together” team of Pur Bahadur Gurung and me, in December 2023. The expedition began in Kathmandu on the 15th. After a rugged jeep...

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| Published 2023 | Author Prakash Gurung


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Sanctuary Peak, First Ascent, Via West Ridge Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal

In 1996, a joint Shinshu University and Nepal Police expedition made the first ascent of Ratna Chuli (7,035m; see AAJ 1997). I was one of the team that reached the summit, gaining invaluable experience for my Himalayan career, all thanks to suppor...

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| Published 2024 | Author Yasuhiro Hanatani


Accident Reports ANAM
Free Soloist Rescue California, El Cajon Mountain, The Wedge

The stranded free soloist above was rescued shortly after this photo was taken. One of the rescuers was Chase Morgan. He wrote to ANAC, “The soloist was standing on a sloping foot ledge, just below the slippery crux, about 45 feet off the ground...

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| Published 2023 | Author Chase Morgan and Brent Donovan


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Insufficient Pads California, Joshua Tree National Park, Hidden Valley Area

On November 9, Gibson McGee (19) was bouldering on White Rastafarian, a V2 highball (some say V3) that has been the scene of many accidents. He fell from near the top and struck the ground, shattering his L1 vertebra (the highest bone in the lower...

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| Published 2023 | Author Gibson McGee, Mtn. Project, Climbing Magazine and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Communication Error, Taken Off Belay California, Malibu, Point Dume State Park

Point Dume State Park is a popular seaside area with short top-ropes. Last year, Right Center (5.7) was the site of a serious lowering accident. Photo: Cecily Breeding | Wikimedia On October 9, we decided to go to the beachside cliff at Point...

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| Published 2023 | Author Ben Nutter


Accident Reports ANAM
Top-Rope Solor Fall — Device Jammed by Sling California, Sequoia National Park, Angel Wings

Whitney Clark’s progress-capture device failed when the as-yet-unused retention sling got stuck in the device as she was ascending. It is common practice to use a sling and an elastic connection to hold the progress-capture device upright as o...

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| Published 2023 | Author Whitney Clark


Accident Reports ANAM
Pinned Under Boulder California, Inyo National Forest, Lamarck Col

Larsen Tormey, three hours after being pinned by a large boulder near Lamarck Col. This photo was taken shortly before his partner managed to pull the boulder off. Photo: Jacob Ireland Around 12:40 p.m. on September 28, Larsen Tormey (28) was...

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| Published 2023 | Author Jacob Ireland


Accident Reports ANAM
Impalement on Cam California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

Cole Taylor climbing into trouble on the Half Dollar Pitch of Freeblast. He fell shortly after this photo was taken, impacting a slab (out of sight). On impact, his leg became impaled on a Camalot’s lobe. Photo: Dylan Miller On October 20, Ga...

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| Published 2023 | Author Cole Taylor


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Unroped Fall California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

On October 2, a 55-year-old male was reported missing by his son. The missing climber had failed to return from a solo attempt on the West Gully of El Capitan. Members of Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) were deployed, and after a few hours of s...

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| Published 2023 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Large Flake Detached on Follower California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Falls Wall

Via Aqua (4 pitches, 5.8) is moderate climb characterized by its wandering route-finding, subpar rock quality, and stunning views. This unique route (yellow line) crosses a huge, massively exposed ledge system two-thirds of the way up the 1,500-...

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| Published 2023 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome saw a serious leader fall on July 7 (yellow circle) when a cam pulled out. Photo: Tuxyso | Wikimedia On July 7, two male climbers in their 30s began a proposed three-day climb of Half Dome’s Regular Nor...

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| Published 2023 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Rockfall California, Yosemite National Park, Leaning Tower

On the afternoon of June 19, two teams were descending from Leaning Tower. The descent, which is known to be challenging, was the site of a devastating accident and a male climber in his 40s lost his life. While the lower team was trying to find ...

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| Published 2023 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers