Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Paradise Lake, Peak 4,539, Northeast Glacier and Southeast Ridge China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan

Paradise Lake with (A) Peak 4,539m, climbed in 2024, (B) Peak 4,359m, (C) Peak 4,171m, and (D) Peak 3,700m showing the line of Dry Martini, also climbed in 2024. Expedition Photo Deng Tao, Li Bo, and Zhang Xinyi arrived at Paradise (a.k.a. Ak...

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| Published 2024 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Paradise Lake, Dry Martini and Other Ascents China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan

On the first ascent of Dry Martini, looking east across Paradise Lake toward unclimbed rock. Photo by Zhen Wang. As the proverb goes, you won’t know how big China is until you arrive in Xinjiang. The long journey to Paradise Lake proves this ...

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| Published 2024 | Author Zhiming Wang


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ao Nang, Dream Wall, Fun Dee Thailand, Krabi Province

 Dennie Vester (NZ) on the sixth pitch of Fun Dee (5.12a), on the Dream Wall in Ao Nang, Thailand. Photo by Dakota Walz. For most climbers, the town of Ao Nang is simply a launchpad to the famous Tonsai and Railay bays. However, Ao Nang has i...

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| Published 2024 | Author Dakota Walz


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mukumbarí Integral Link-up Venezuela, Sierra Nevada de Mérida

Situated southeast of Mérida in far western Venezuela, the Sierra Nevada holds the country’s highest peaks, culminating in Pico Bolívar (named after Simón Bolívar, the Venezuelan military officer who liberated many South American countries from Sp...

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| Published 2025 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
San Isidro Canyon, Hard Very Cactus Mexico, Nuevo León, El Salto Area

Patrick Hill high on the walls of San Isidro Canyon during the first ascent of Hard Very Cactus. Photo: Matt Reeser El Salto is known primarily for sport climbing. However, on December 15, 2023, Matt Reeser (USA) and I established Hard Very C...

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| Published 2023 | Author Patrick Hill


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Fox Jaw Cirque: Three-Peak Traverse and Partial New Route on Cavity Ridge Greenland, East Greenland, Schweizerland

The three-day Trident VI Orobica traverse went west to east (left to right) over (A) Baby Molar, (B) Molar, and (C) Incisor. (D) is Cavity Ridge, showing the incomplete line of No Me Moleste Mosquito. Photo: Thomas Triboli In 20 years, we’ll ...

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| Published 2024 | Author Thomas Triboli


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Maujit Qaqarssuasia Massif, Two New Routes, and Other Climbs Greenland, South Greenland, Torsukattak Fjord

Miška Izakovičová following a sustained pitch on the headwall of Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea, on the Thumbnail (Maujit Qaqarssuasia). Photo: Tim Miller In August 2024, Miška Izakovičová (Slovakia), Callum Johnson, Simon Smith, and I...

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| Published 2024 | Author Tim Miller


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kekertarmiut Island, Innaarsuit, Various New Routes Greenland, West Greenland

India Fallowfield and Ben Kent seconding pitch six of Gas Mark 5 (404m, E5 6b), Innaarsuit, Kekertarmiut Island. Photo: Chris Moore In June and July, the British team of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent, and Chris Moore established a flurry of new...

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| Published 2024 | Author Matt Samet


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Four First Ascents During Southeast-Northwest Crossing Greenland, West Greenland

General route of Eric Gilbertson and Branden Joy’s 2024 southeast-to-northwest traverse of Greenland, covering more than 1,500 miles on foot and kite-skis. The midroute jog to the left marks the detour to Umiammakku Nunaat, where four first asce...

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| Published 2024 | Author Eric Gilbertson and Branden Joy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
El Gran Trono Blanco, Estrella Fugaz Mexico, Baja California, Cañón del Tajo

On October 26 and 27, Iván Acosta, Sergio Acosta, Jesús Avalos, Phany Cano, Israel López, Carlos Sanchez, and I climbed Estrella Fugaz (420m, 5.10b A2) on El Gran Trono Blanco’s southwest face. Our route is now the first you encounter near the bot...

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| Published 2024 | Author Luis Carlos García Ayala


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Karjiang, First Ascent, via Southwest Face China, Tibet, Himalaya

On the lower part of the southwest face during the first ascent of Karjiang (7,216m). Photo: Liu Yang  By his definition of a mountain versus a subsidiary top, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski lists the Himalayan peak Karjiang (...

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| Published 2024 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Sundardhunga Khal: A Famous Pass Reached from the South India, Uttarakhand, Eastern Garhwal

A collapsed serac in the icefall was the crux of the 2022 attempt to reach Sundardhunga Khal. Photo: Anindya MukherjeeAccess to Nanda Devi’s Inner Sanctuary has captivated mountaineers for more than a century. On the southern rim, Sundardhunga Kha...

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| Published 2024 | Author Anindya Mukherjee and Abhishek Das


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chandra Bhaga Range, CB26, Northwest Face India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul

Descending from CB26 back to the approach glacier after the ascent of the peak by the northwest face. Photo: Juraj Koreň Seven years ago, Michal Sabovčík and I started a project where we aimed to ascend a previously unclimbed mountain or rout...

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| Published 2024 | Author Juraj Koreň


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Shingo South, East Face and South-Southeast Ridge India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul

The Shingo La (5,090m) is a high pass on an old trekking route from Lahaul to Zanskar. More recently, the route has been converted to a motorable road. The planned Shingo La Tunnel, beneath the pass, should ensure the road will be usable in all we...

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| Published 2024 | Author Subajit Banerjee


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chhogo Tokpo: Skarma Mindruk Ri, Antimatterhorn, Spao Ri and Ibex Peak India, Ladakh, Zanskar

In recent years, the peaks of Zanskar have seen increasing popularity with mountaineering expeditions. Despite this, there are still plenty of unclimbed summits from 5,500m to 6,500m. The scale here is quite friendly for the Himalaya and therefo...

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| Published 2024 | Author Matic Jošt


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Northumbria, Two New Routes Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park

Looking down pitch eight of PangTen (424m, 5.10) with the 1,250-meter west face of Mt. Thor in the background. Photo: Darin Berdinka Having both turned 50, Owen Lunz and I felt like we could no longer procrastinate, so we committed to a long-...

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| Published 2024 | Author Darin Berdinka


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Sirmilik National Park, West-to-East Traverse and First Ascents Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island

The tricky descent into Kilutea Canyon on the Borden Peninsula. Photo: Philippe Gauthier From May 3 to 29, 2023, our team of four (Philippe Gauthier and son Simon Gauthier, and Charles Gauvin and son Marc Gauvin) made the first west-to-east s...

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| Published 2023 | Author Philippe Gauthier and Charles Gauvin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chanrasrik Ri, Spark Traverse, and Other Ascents India, Ladakh, Zanskar, Rangtik Tokpo

From July 9 to August 15, our team of three ventured to Ladakh. After a three-day journey, we reached the small village of Tungri in the Zanskar Valley, where we were warmly welcomed. With the help of local porters, we ascended to a base camp at 4...

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| Published 2024 | Author Lea Goldberger, Elias Hangweyrer and David Schneider


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Vajrayogni, Northeast Face and Northwest Ridge India, Ladakh, Zanskar, Rangtik Tokpo

After the great fire of 64 A.D., the Emperor Nero built a vast complex on the Oppian Hill in Rome. The Domus Aurea (Golden House) was based on the architecture of an Egyptian temple and magnificently decorated with birds, animals, and flowers. Ind...

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| Published 2024 | Author Yuri Koshelenko


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Starikatchan, First Ascent, via West Face and South Ridge India, Ladakh, Zanskar

Tess Smith on the south ridge of Starikatchan during the 2022 attempt, when the climbers got within about 100 meters of the summit.  Photo: Alan Goldbetter. The last bit of light in the sky faded quickly as we arrived on the summit of Starika...

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| Published 2024 | Author Alan Goldbetter