El Gran Trono Blanco, Estrella Fugaz
Mexico, Baja California, Cañón del Tajo
On October 26 and 27, Iván Acosta, Sergio Acosta, Jesús Avalos, Phany Cano, Israel López, Carlos Sanchez, and I climbed Estrella Fugaz (420m, 5.10b A2) on El Gran Trono Blanco’s southwest face. Our route is now the first you encounter near the bottom of the descent gully that leads to the south face. It is to the left of The Millennium (Anderson-Smallwood, 1999).
The goal of this trip was to show my friends how to open a traditional multipitch route. In April, I climbed the first six pitches, but we abandoned our attempt and rappelled the route due to lack of time. I returned in October with the team of six friends.
This time I managed to open all nine pitches, following a crack system with a mixture of free climbing and aid. The rest of the team jugged behind. We spent a night bivouacking on a ledge on pitch four and the next day reached the summit around 9:30 a.m. It was a challenging descent as the walk back south was difficult to find. [This route was free climbed in late November at 5.10+. It has some protection bolts, and most anchors are bolted.]
—Luis Carlos García Ayala, Mexico