Jon Griffin, Thomas Huber, and I had visited the Choktoi Glacier in 2024, our goals the west summit of Suma Brakk and the southeast pillar of Latok III. Initially, the weather was stunning, but as our preparation was beginning to pay off, we were ...
The German Alpine Club organizes a three-year program—DAV Expedition Teams—to encourage young alpinists to explore unclimbed routes. At the end of the 2007–2009 program, an eight-member team traveled to the Hunza Valley for a six-week trip. The hi...
Hunza Peak (6,270m) had been our goal in 2024 as part of the acclimatization plan before the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (AAJ 2025). Some illness meant we only had time to concentrate on the main target, but our desire to climb Hunza remained. ...
I first saw a photo of the stunning north buttress of unclimbed Dansam (a.k.a. K13, 6,666m, 35°12'12.24"N, 76°45'36.47"E) in 2021. At the time, it felt like a distant dream, but it became my compass and helped guide the direction of my climbing fo...
The upper west face of Tirich Mir (7,708m). (1) The normal route (1967); several different lines have been followed above the 7,200-meter col. (2) The approximate line climbed in 2025. The year 2025 marked the seventy-fifth anniversary of the...
The south face of Chumik Kangri, showing the route of the first ascent (red line) and the descent along the west ridge. Photo by Wadim Jabłoński From September 12 to 14, Wadim Jabłoński (Poland), Adam Kaniak (Slovakia), and I made the first ...
In July, Denis Urubko (Russia) and I completed a new line on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat (8,125m), climbing in alpine style, with no fixed ropes during the ascent and no assistance from other climbers. We reached the summit on July 10, our fif...
We (Andrew Attfield and James O’Sullivan) flew to the town of Simikot in western Nepal in early September. From there, we headed east, then north, up the Dojam Valley, eventually branching left into the Nin Khola. On reaching a spot known as Sumna...
Numbur (6,958m, 27°45’17.57”N, 86°34’20.65”E) is a shapely pyramid south of Tengkangpoche that was first climbed in 1963 by a Japanese expedition, via the southwest ridge. Prior to 2025, in addition to repeats of the southwest ridge, there had bee...
Summit ridge of Manaslu, 8,150 meters, October 22. Sergei Kondrashkin leading, Kirill Eizeman on belay. Photo by Andrey Vasilyev In 1972, a Tyrolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz completed the third ascent of Manaslu (8,163m) by a new rout...
François Cazzanelli on the south-southeast ridge of Kimshung, with Langtang Lirung behind. Photo by Damiano Levati Lukas Waldner and I arrived in Kathmandu on October 5, and after one night there continued by jeep on flooded roads to Syabrube...
Nives Meroi and Peter Hamor descending the north ridge of Kabru, with the Kangchenjunga massif in the background. (A) Yalung Peak (7,590m). (B) Kangbachen (7,902m). (C) Yalung Kang (8,505m). (D) Kangchenjunga Main (8,586m), (E) Central (8,473m),...
Over a 31-day period from September 3 to October 4, 2025, Spanish ultrarunner and mountaineer Kilian Jornet, age 37 at the time, completed a gargantuan running, cycling, and climbing project that he dubbed “States of Elevation.” Jornet traveled ac...
Peak 5,710’, a sandstone butte rising from the floor of Knowles Canyon, in the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness west of Grand Junction, has been a long-standing challenge for a few Colorado climbers, partly due to its location in a remote, beautiful...
With various partners, Tal Wanish developed the first route up the north face of Baby Helen’s Dome in the Sheeprock massif, starting in April and concluding in late October with a team-free ascent, on which both Steve DeWitt (leading) and Wanish f...
Jesse Huey mixed climbing—as in a mix of ice tools and rock shoes—on D7 (6 pitches plus approach and exit climbing, 5.11c in summer) on the Diamond wall of Longs Peak. Photo: Jon Glassberg The Diamond on the northeast face of Longs Peak is on...
Mosquito Pass Wall, with the arrow marking the start of Unikkiga Akłunaaq. Photo by Kara Beer Unikkiga Akłunaaq (260m, 5.8) is the first known rock route to ascend the Mosquito Pass Wall (64.920139, -165.489944) in the Kigluaik Mountains, abo...
Tim Stephens leading across a rock tower on the south ridge of the Tusk. Photo by Ryan Hokanson The Tusk (6,825’, 61.01692, -145.54298) is a prominent rock spire approximately ten miles southeast of Thompson Pass in the central Chugach Mount...
The Raven-Wolf Route on the east ridge of the Trickster. Photo by Zach Clanton During the summer of 2024 in Haines, Alaska, three separate people told me I needed to climb with Zach Clanton. Zach reminds me of a modern-day Indiana Jones. He ...
Rafael Alfaro on the east face of South Mile High Peak during the first ascent of Blood and Sand. Photo by Wyatt Jobe On February 11, 2025, Rafael Alfaro and I completed the probable first ascent of a line on the east face of South Mile High ...