Base camp for the 2023 expedition: The formation climbed by Faffin in Baffin is on the right, and Angijuqqaaq is in back. Photo: Ky Hart Collection. One hundred and fifty kilometers southeast of Iqaluit is the broad ice cap of the Grinnell Gl...
The 2023–2024 season in the Chaltén Massif was statistically “average” for weather, meaning there were few windows and conditions were challenging. For a change, and thankfully, there were no fatalities in the massif. There were only two serious ...
The Cordillera Emperador Guillermo is located north of Coyhaique and a few kilometers west of the town of Villa Ortega. Despite the proximity to town, the range emanates a great deal of mystery and solitude. Spanning about five kilometers from sou...
(A) Shkhara’s main summit (5,203m) from the south. The six-day traverse began with the Beknu-Khergiani Route (1), continued along the ridge to the west summit (B), and descended the Rolleston-Longstaff Route (2), passing over the south summit (C...
In 2020, while attempting to summit Cerro Aparejo, a friend and I noticed an attractive summit visible from the road through the Aparejo Valley in Chile’s Cajon de Maipo, two hours from Santiago. We analyzed possible routes on the peak’s south fac...
In May, Tiphaine Dupérier and Nouria Newman (both from France) made a nearly complete ski descent of the North Peak of Ushba via the north ridge and northwest face. Ushba’s North Peak (4,690m) was first skied in 2017 by Miroslav Pet’o (Slovakia),...
On August 29, Temo Qurdiani and I drove in a 4WD vehicle from Mestia to the remote village of Adishi. (This road still does not appear on Google Maps.) Our idea was to climb the iconic Tetnuldi (4,858m) by an impressive and “forgotten” face. Adis...
Taki Miyamoto on pitch five of Kuche Kuche, a 45-meter 5.10d. Photo by Mark Richey. Across the African plateau, rising smoke from slash-and-burn agriculture gave an orange haze to the setting Malawian sun. One by one, electric lights illumina...
On December 4, Dominique Lalot and Raphael Thomé (France) completed the upper South Pillar of Adad Medni in the western Anti-Atlas. This line, which begins partway up the 1,000m south face and is accessed by a traverse from the east, had been att...
Nathan Cahill working on the route Dez Mangas (5.11c) at Serra da Leba, Angola. Photo by Diogo Rebelo. In the sunbaked land of Angola, the Huíla Plateau rises majestically above the Namib, a coastal desert in southwest Africa. The plateau pr...
Looking northwest toward Ratiruni Tibba (5,570m, left) and unclimbed Peak 5,655m. Ratiruni Tibba was climbed by its right skyline ridge. Photo by Gerry Galligan. In July, Hugh Reynolds and I (Ireland) visited the Debsa Valley in Spiti. Our ai...
A report in AAJ 2005 about a British expedition's climbs in the Daxue Shan area mistakenly described the team attempting “Xiao Pangwa” and neighboring “Da Pangwa,” which in fact were Melcyr Shan and Peak 5,630m. (Neither of the names used by the B...
The Jiesi Valley is a little to the west of the Siguniang Range, and at the head of one of the upper branches stands Peak 5,300m (31°22’10.69”N, 102°41’4.25”E). The southeast ridge is characterized by a large hole through the mountain, giving the ...
Arriba Quemando el Sol (650m, 5.11-) goes up the long, shaded pillar on the left side of the west face of Cuerno Principal. The climbers summited via the peak’s original route (Chilean, 1968), which climbs black metamorphic rock around the corne...
When Luka Lindič and I stood on top of Aguja St. Exupery after climbing our new route Mir on its south face (AAJ 2020), the view to the north was of the imposing south face of Aguja Poincenot (3,002m). We knew about some unclimbed terrain on that...
Peaks of the Jiptik Valley from the north. (A) Schurovsky (5,490m). (B) Muz Tok (5,066m); two attempts have been made on the aspect facing the camera. (C) Yuzhny. (D) Zemleprohodtsev (5,050m); arrow marks the 2023 attempt. (E) Khergiani. (F) Tur...
On May 4, the team of Giovanni Fortunato, Anna Fridlyanskaya, Leo Fridlyanskaya, Wyatt Jobe, Lillian Llacer, and Luke Smithwick established a base camp at about 3,350m (32.60496, 77.29053), near the mouth of the Mulkila Valley. From here the team ...
In the fall, Takahiro Ishikawa, Takahiro Kaneko, and Saki Terada made a spirited attempt on unclimbed Sharphu VI (6,076m) in the Ohmi Kangri Himal. The team approached up the Nupchu Khola from Kangbachen and then climbed southwest to reach the gla...
In October, I led a small international team to the Lhonak Glacier, northwest of Kangchenjunga. Kyabura (6,466m), listed as an unclimbed peak by the Ministry of Tourism, is the smaller half of a border massif shared with Dzanye (6,581m), which was...
After acclimatizing with a trek to Everest Base Camp, Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer (Austria) drove by jeep from Kathamandu to Num, via Tumlingtar. They arrived on April 14 and then trekked to a base camp at 4,564m to the south of the southernmost...