Prakash Sherpa, Riten Sherpa (both IFMGA guides), Luigi Santini (Italy), and I attempted the unclimbed northwest ridge of Melanphulan (6,573m) in early November. With porter assistance, we established a high camp at 5,100m on the moraine north of ...
Iker Madoz, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza from Spain planned to climb a new route on Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637m), a remote border peak that has only seen one ascent. In the spring of 1982, a 19-member joint Nepalese-Japanese team, led by Ichiro Yas...
Nepalese guides and brothers Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Pemba Dorje Sherpa, along with their nephew Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa (grandson of Ang Rita Sherpa and currently living in the USA), led two clients, Jaime Salinas (Mexico) and the Nepalese singer S...
In the spring, an eight-member Japanese expedition led by Daijo Saito attempted unclimbed Jarkya (6,473m, the highest point of the remote Jarkya Himal on the HMG-Finn map). Situated at 28°44'30.56"N, 84°31'28.72"E on the Nepal-Tibet border, about ...
Maud Vanpoulle, Bastien Levy, and Damien Coelho-Mandèd during the descent of the west-southwest ridge of Ratna Chuli. (A) Seto Chuli, (B) Peak 6,662m, and (C) Hulang Go. Photo by Aurélia Lanoe. The project was born one year earlier after Bast...
Sarah Allard, Maria Dixon, Richard Goodey, and I spent three days trekking to Nar, with support from the excellent Nepal Nirvana Trails trekking agency. We picked up further supplies and donkeys to help carry the loads, and set off for the Labse K...
In the autumn, I led an expedition to the Hidden Valley, north of Dhaulagiri, to attempt the standard route up the north ridge of 6,920m Tukuche. However, very low temperatures and wind at altitude forced us to abandon our ascent. On the opposite ...
On my seventh expedition to Queen Maud Land, I and the experienced New Zealand mountain guide Mike Roberts climbed a new, short, and relatively safe route up the eastern flank of Ritschergipfel (2,791m, 71°24’21”S, 13°20’52”E). From Novo Airbase, ...
Alex Brough, Ryan Burke, and Will Reno (USA), with ALE guide Eli Potter, made a number of ascents on the ridge between the Splettstoesser and Gowan glaciers in the northern Heritage Range, east of the Founders Peaks. After an initial attempt to re...
Oscar’s Ridge (left line) on Peak 830m, Apusiajik Island, north of Kulusuk. The descent to the west and then back north is marked. Photo by Josh Alcorn. Over ten days in August, Ben Kincaid, Kennon Kincaid, Scott Lockhart, and I explored the ...
The Equipo Femenino de Alpinismo (Women’s Alpine Team) from the Spanish Mountaineering Federation arrived in Kulusuk on August 4 and stayed in Greenland for one month. The group comprised Ángela Altaba, Julia Casanovas, Ruth Fornós, Uxue Loizu, ...
An AAJ 2018 report about an ascent of Grundtvigskirken in Renland mistakenly reported that an earlier name for this 1,977m formation—Penguin Tower—was proposed by a 1985 expedition. In fact, it was given this name by the 1987 team that visited thi...
In 2021, during a traverse of the Trident Range (AAJ 2022), Maarten van Haeren noticed the big, steep northeast face of Oldhorn Mountain (ca 3,000m) to the south. It had about 600m of quartzite (the good stuff in the Rockies). Although it was hard...
Sara Lilley and Isobel Phoebus had been to the Valhallas the prior summer, making an ascent of the complete north ridge of Little Dag (Lussier-Senecal, 2015). The south face of Gladsheim Peak (2,830m), the highest summit of the Valhallas, caught t...
Our hopes of taking my 4WD up Kwoiek Creek Forest Service Road were squashed by an impassable slide only a couple of hundred meters up the road. Seb Gulka and I were heading to the long alpine ridgeline that leads westward over four peaks (informa...
Mt. Habrich (1,792m) is located high above Squamish and is accessible either via the Sea to Sky Gondola, followed by a hike of about two hours on the Sky Pilot Valley Trail, or by hiking the Sea to Sky Trail to the upper gondola station, adding 90...
Italian climbers Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jerome Perruquet, and Francesco Ratti arrived at base camp at about 4,000m in the Miyar Valley during the middle of a high-pressure system in September. This was an opportunity not to be missed,...
The sprawling south face of Cerro Nora Oeste. Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of the westernmost summit via a 900-meter route up the west ridge (near the left skyline). Photo: Paolo Marazzi. In November, Luca Schiera and...
In early November, Andres Bosch, Lucia Guichot, Nico Tapia, and I climbed the obvious gully in the middle of the southwest face of Punta Miller (1,930m, 46°25’46.3”S, 72°34’05.4”W), at the head of the Miller Valley. We drove from Puerto Sánchez a...