A report in AAJ 2005 about a British expedition's climbs in the Daxue Shan area mistakenly described the team attempting “Xiao Pangwa” and neighboring “Da Pangwa,” which in fact were Melcyr Shan and Peak 5,630m. (Neither of the names used by the B...
The Jiesi Valley is a little to the west of the Siguniang Range, and at the head of one of the upper branches stands Peak 5,300m (31°22’10.69”N, 102°41’4.25”E). The southeast ridge is characterized by a large hole through the mountain, giving the ...
Arriba Quemando el Sol (650m, 5.11-) goes up the long, shaded pillar on the left side of the west face of Cuerno Principal. The climbers summited via the peak’s original route (Chilean, 1968), which climbs black metamorphic rock around the corne...
When Luka Lindič and I stood on top of Aguja St. Exupery after climbing our new route Mir on its south face (AAJ 2020), the view to the north was of the imposing south face of Aguja Poincenot (3,002m). We knew about some unclimbed terrain on that...
Peaks of the Jiptik Valley from the north. (A) Schurovsky (5,490m). (B) Muz Tok (5,066m); two attempts have been made on the aspect facing the camera. (C) Yuzhny. (D) Zemleprohodtsev (5,050m); arrow marks the 2023 attempt. (E) Khergiani. (F) Tur...
On May 4, the team of Giovanni Fortunato, Anna Fridlyanskaya, Leo Fridlyanskaya, Wyatt Jobe, Lillian Llacer, and Luke Smithwick established a base camp at about 3,350m (32.60496, 77.29053), near the mouth of the Mulkila Valley. From here the team ...
In the fall, Takahiro Ishikawa, Takahiro Kaneko, and Saki Terada made a spirited attempt on unclimbed Sharphu VI (6,076m) in the Ohmi Kangri Himal. The team approached up the Nupchu Khola from Kangbachen and then climbed southwest to reach the gla...
In October, I led a small international team to the Lhonak Glacier, northwest of Kangchenjunga. Kyabura (6,466m), listed as an unclimbed peak by the Ministry of Tourism, is the smaller half of a border massif shared with Dzanye (6,581m), which was...
After acclimatizing with a trek to Everest Base Camp, Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer (Austria) drove by jeep from Kathamandu to Num, via Tumlingtar. They arrived on April 14 and then trekked to a base camp at 4,564m to the south of the southernmost...
Prakash Sherpa, Riten Sherpa (both IFMGA guides), Luigi Santini (Italy), and I attempted the unclimbed northwest ridge of Melanphulan (6,573m) in early November. With porter assistance, we established a high camp at 5,100m on the moraine north of ...
Iker Madoz, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza from Spain planned to climb a new route on Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637m), a remote border peak that has only seen one ascent. In the spring of 1982, a 19-member joint Nepalese-Japanese team, led by Ichiro Yas...
Nepalese guides and brothers Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Pemba Dorje Sherpa, along with their nephew Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa (grandson of Ang Rita Sherpa and currently living in the USA), led two clients, Jaime Salinas (Mexico) and the Nepalese singer S...
In the spring, an eight-member Japanese expedition led by Daijo Saito attempted unclimbed Jarkya (6,473m, the highest point of the remote Jarkya Himal on the HMG-Finn map). Situated at 28°44'30.56"N, 84°31'28.72"E on the Nepal-Tibet border, about ...
Maud Vanpoulle, Bastien Levy, and Damien Coelho-Mandèd during the descent of the west-southwest ridge of Ratna Chuli. (A) Seto Chuli, (B) Peak 6,662m, and (C) Hulang Go. Photo by Aurélia Lanoe. The project was born one year earlier after Bast...
Sarah Allard, Maria Dixon, Richard Goodey, and I spent three days trekking to Nar, with support from the excellent Nepal Nirvana Trails trekking agency. We picked up further supplies and donkeys to help carry the loads, and set off for the Labse K...
In the autumn, I led an expedition to the Hidden Valley, north of Dhaulagiri, to attempt the standard route up the north ridge of 6,920m Tukuche. However, very low temperatures and wind at altitude forced us to abandon our ascent. On the opposite ...
On my seventh expedition to Queen Maud Land, I and the experienced New Zealand mountain guide Mike Roberts climbed a new, short, and relatively safe route up the eastern flank of Ritschergipfel (2,791m, 71°24’21”S, 13°20’52”E). From Novo Airbase, ...
Alex Brough, Ryan Burke, and Will Reno (USA), with ALE guide Eli Potter, made a number of ascents on the ridge between the Splettstoesser and Gowan glaciers in the northern Heritage Range, east of the Founders Peaks. After an initial attempt to re...
Oscar’s Ridge (left line) on Peak 830m, Apusiajik Island, north of Kulusuk. The descent to the west and then back north is marked. Photo by Josh Alcorn. Over ten days in August, Ben Kincaid, Kennon Kincaid, Scott Lockhart, and I explored the ...
The Equipo Femenino de Alpinismo (Women’s Alpine Team) from the Spanish Mountaineering Federation arrived in Kulusuk on August 4 and stayed in Greenland for one month. The group comprised Ángela Altaba, Julia Casanovas, Ruth Fornós, Uxue Loizu, ...