Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Chaltén, East Pillar, First Free Ascent Argentina, Southern Patagonia

Seán Villanueva O'Driscoll free climbing the crux traverse on pitch 22 of the east pillar of Cerro Chaltén. Photo by Tasio Martín The East Pillar marks the left side of the imposing east face of Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy). The route that climbs...

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| Published 2026 | Author Rolando Garibotti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
El Chaltén Summary, 2025-2026 Argentina, Southern Patagonia

In the Chaltén Massif, as has become customary, there were several major rockfall events in the 2025–26 season, some particularly large, including from Cerro Adela, El Mochito, the Filo del Hombre Sentado, Aguja de la Silla, the west side of Cerro...

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| Published 2026 | Author Rolando Garibotti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Central Tower of Paine, Paradigm Shift Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine

The Central (left) and North towers in the Paine group, with the line of Paradigm Shift. The route climbs 29 new pitches, then follows the 1963 Bonington-Whillans route to the summit. Photo by Trevor Anthes This project began in the Chilean s...

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| Published 2026 | Author Myles Moser


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Oreja, Vía de los Marpla Chile, Northern Patagonia, Turbio IV Valley

In 1999, Swiss climber Peter Luthi and Argentines Andy Casal, Marcelo Galghera, and Leo Viamonte spent two months exploring the Turbio IV Valley and started a route up the large wall of La Oreja, then unclimbed. Two years later, Casal returned wi...

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| Published 2026 | Author Marcelo Scanu


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cajón del Maipo, New Winter Routes Chile, Central Andes

In August and September, Joaco Cisternas and Nico Gutiérrez from Chile climbed two long ice and mixed routes in the Cajón del Maipo area. The first was on Cerro Punta Balcón (3,650m, -33.766485, -70.034874): Corredor Chaski (800m, WI4 M5 40°). The...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dougald MacDonald


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Hosco, First Ascent, via East Face Argentina, Central Andes

Between October 18 and 25, Lisandro Arelovich, Gervasio Fierro, and Glauco Muratti from Rosario, Argentina, made the first ascent of Cerro Hosco (5,109m, -32.9406, -69.6697), west of Mendoza. The group departed from Punta de Vacas (2,400m) and biv...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marcelo Scanu


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nevado de Chañi, South Face, El Vuelo del Pichón Argentina, Northern Andes

Nevado de Chañi (5,896m) and the line of El Vuelo del Pichón on the south face. Earlier routes are not shown. Argentines Emilio Arciènaga and Ulises Kusnezov and Venezuelan Bernardo Baena opened a new ice route in early June on Nevado de Chañ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marcelo Scanu


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chameleon Wall, Mercury Miners Madagascar, Tsaranoro Massif

Dakota Walz cruises the fifth pitch of Mercury Miners (220m, 6a+) a new line on the Chameleon Wall, with a great view of Tsaranoro Be and its neighbors across the valley. Photo by Bosco Bonilla After a month of big-walling in Mozambique, Bosc...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dakota Walz


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Livingston Island, Edinburgh Hill Antarctica, South Shetland Islands

Edinburgh Hill, rising nearly 600 feet above the Drake Passage, off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. The climbers ascended the orange basalt near the prow, followed by dangerous scrambling to the summit. Photo by Todd Swain In early Februa...

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| Published 2026 | Author Todd and Donette Swain


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Flatiron Butte, Two New Routes California, Sierra Nevada

Henry Feder on the fourth pitch of Endemic Species (1,200’, 5.11+) on Flatiron Butte. Photo by Mike Pond In July 2024, Henry Feder and I spent a week at Flatiron Butte in the Northern Sierra and established two new routes on the east face: Ph...

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| Published 2025 | Author Mike Pond


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Crocker, North Pillar, Giselle’s Big Advencha California, Sierra Nevada, McGee Creek

Derek Field on the face traverse at the top of pitch two (5.10) on Giselle’s Big Advencha. Photo by Vitaliy Musiyenko In the summer of 2025, on July 13, Derek Field and I completed the first ascent of Giselle’s Big Advencha (1,200’, 5.10+) on...

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| Published 2025 | Author Vitaliy Musiyenko


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Patterson Bluff, Wedding Wall/Altar, Tying the Knot California, Western Sierra

Daniel Jeffcoach casting off on pitch seven of (5.9) Tying the Knot (9 pitches, 5.12d). Photo by Brian Prince On February 28, Daniel Jeffcoach, Joe Maier, Brian Prince, Tristan Thau, and I completed Tying the Knot (9 pitches, 5.12d). The new ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Brandon Thau


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Grandstand, The Rainbow Bridge Wyoming, Teton Range

Leah Scott following the pitch two dihedral on The Rainbow Bridge. Photo by Zack Little In summer 2025, Noah Ronczkowski and I climbed a route on the northwest face of Mt. Owen established in 2020 by our dear friends Michael Hutchins and the ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Zack Little


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
THE MOUTH, HIGH PLAINS HOEDOWN AND THE EAST FACE Wyoming, Absaroka Range

Start of the East Face. Photo: Curtis Baird Collection In the autumn of 2021, along with Rachel and Gabe Skiera, I headed to Clarks Fork Canyon in the Absaroka Range to check out an area called the Mouth, about 25 miles north of Cody, where a...

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| Published 2025 | Author Curtis Baird


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cirque of the Moon, Holding Out for a Hero and Other Routes Wyoming Wind River Range

Devin Schneid following pitch four of Two Left Feet on Sumac Point. Photo by Stefanos Apostle  During the months of August and September, I spent a total of 24 days with four different partners in the Wind Rivers’ Cirque of the Moon (42.75610...

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| Published 2025 | Author Stefanos Apostle


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Wolf Mountain, Northeast Face, Petrified Songs Montana, Beartooth Mountains

Adrien Costa leading the fourth pitch of Petrified Songs on the northeast face of Wolf Mountain. Photo by Earl Lunceford On November 8, Adrien Costa and I parked our truck at the intersection of Lulu Pass and the Goose Lake 4x4 road. Nine mil...

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| Published 2025 | Author Earl Lunceford


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Salamander, Baring Point, and Cataract Mountain, New Routes Montana, Glacier National Park

Nick Sramek on the east prow of Baring Point in Glacier National Park. Photo by Seth Anderson Over the summer of 2025, I established three routes with various partners in Glacier National Park, an area known for its rotten rock, murky history...

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| Published 2025 | Author Seth Anderson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Monto II, III, and IV India, Ladakh, Rupshu Region

Monto II (6,030m) and the 2025 route of ascent via the northwest face and southwest ridge. Photo by Sonarpur Arohi Expedition In August and September 2023, an Indian expedition explored the Monto Group from the east, the first team known to d...

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| Published 2025 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Iris Peak, southwest face, Karma India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul and Spiti, Miyar Valley

Nadezhda Muzhikina not far from the summit of Iris Peak. Photo by Olga Paducheva For more than six months, we had prepared for our expedition, planning for every contingency, from border delays to bad weather. But life reminded us you cannot ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Oksana Kochubey


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
West Harsil Horn, Alpine-style second ascent India, Gangotri

Climbing on the west-southwest ridge of the Horn of Harsil. Photo by Ankit Mahato On June 10, Cyrus Wirls and I completed the second recorded ascent of the Horn of Harsil (4,823m; the peak has two summits, with the west horn being higher). Th...

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| Published 2025 | Author Ankit Mahato