American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26689 Records

Title Publication Year
Jebel Kawr, North Face, Vacanze (R)omane
THIS TRIP to Oman was a bit like an unexpected gift: It arrived at the last moment, and I had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Far Out: The First Ascent of a Gigantic Sea Cliff
OVER THREE WEEKS in July and August 2017, Yuji Hirayama (Japan), Cedar Wright (USA), and I traveled to the Faroe Islands ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Foula, Nebbifjeld, Ultima Thule
FOULA is the most remote inhabited island off the coast ofBritain, and in Roman times was known as Ultima ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Stortinden and Brettviktinden, New Routes
THERE ARE MOMENTS in life when one simply knows something special is happening . There’s a tug at the heartstrings, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Gudvangen Valley, The Kraken and Other Routes
Philippe Batoux, Aymeric Clouet, and Michel Coranotte spent 10 days of February in Sognefjord, staying in the centrally situated Flam . The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Snakebite
On October 6, a 25-year-old female was climbing a route at Bruise Brothers wall in Muir Valley. Approximately 15 feet up the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Recon: Nepal's Wild, Wild West
FAR NORTHWESTERN NEPAL has, until recently, been the area of the country—and indeed of the Himalaya in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Milestones
The climbs featured in the AAJ don’t happen in a vacuum—they are part of the broader evolution ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
The Andes: The Complete History of Mountaineering in South America
THE ANDES: THE COMPLETE HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING IN SOUTH AMERICA .  Evelio A. Echevarria. Joseph Reidhead & Co., 2018. Paperback, 840 pages, $64.50. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Chasing Denali: The Sourdoughs, Cheechakos, and Frauds Behind the Most Unbelievable Feat in Mountaineering
CHASING DENALI: THE SOURDOUGHS, CHEECHAKOS, AND FRAUDS BEHIND THE MOST UNBELIEVABLE FEAT IN MOUNTAINEERING  Jonathan Waterman. Lyons Press, 2018. Hardcover, 184 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Inner Ranges: An Anthology of Mountain Thoughts and Mountain People
INNER RANGES: AN ANTHOLOGY OF MOUNTAIN THOUGHTS AND MOUNTAIN PEOPLE  Geoff Powter. Rocky Mountain Books, 2018. Paperback, 330 pages, $22 Canadian . In ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Kyajo Ri, Lapse of Reason
FOLLOWING A TIP from Czech mountaineer Martin Otta, Marek Holecěk and Jan Smolen attempted Kyajo Ri (6,151m) from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Langdung, Southeast Ridge, Bihana
IN OCTOBER 2017, Jesus Ibarz and Pablo Ruiz were part of a Spanish Alpine Team expedition to the Rolwaling, led ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lobuche East, Southwest Pillar, Le Quatuor à Cordes; Arakam Tse, East Face (Not to Summit), Pray for Porters
In October, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot, Aurélien Vaissière, and I arrived in the Khumbu for a month's ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pumori, Southeast Face, Le Voyage du Petit Prince
THE IDEA of a new line on the southeast face of Pumori (7,161m) had been in my mind since 2015, when ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Solo in the Kanti Himal: The First Ascents of Three 6,000-meter Peaks
Looking east-northeast from Churau to (A) Rongla Kangri, (B) Rongla south top, (C) Peak 6,265m, and (D) Koji La. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Robert M. Failing, M.D., 1928 – 2018
Robert “Bob” Mayo Failing was born in Ann Arbor, Michigan, the son of Joseph Henry Failing, M.D., and Virginia ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Roberts French, 1935 – 2018
On November 26, 2018, Roberts (Bob) Walker French died at his home in Santa Fe, New Mexico . He was a scholar, teacher, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Bruce Renwick Gilbert, 1931 – 2017
As the fifth and youngest child of Curtiss Gilbert and Anne Seely from Yakima, Washington, Bruce grew up learning the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Donald MacPherson Wallace Jr., 1934 – 2018
Donald MacPherson Wallace Jr., of Northfield, Vermont, passed away on Sunday, Nov. 18, 2018, after a short illness . His daughters Beth and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Cerro Vallecitos, Recent Routes
Located west of Mendoza, the Cordón del Plata offers easy access for climbers and a great training ground for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chañi Massif, Recent Developments
Chañi massif from the east. (A) Nevado Chañi (5,949m). (B) Morro Von Rosen. (C) Pico Nordenskiöld. (D) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pico Nordenskiöld, Escudo de la Puna, and Other Routes
INSPIRED BY PHOTOS from my friend Martin López Abad, John Price, Quentin Lindfield Roberts, Will Stanhope, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chinese Puzzle Wall, Manchu Wok
In 2008, Squamish hardman Dan Tetzlaff and I made a comical botched attempt on the virgin Chinese Puzzle Wall, high on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2020
Sahale Peak, West Spur, Klone Kalitan
THE CONVOLUTED west spur of Sahale Mountain (8,681’) in North Cascades National Park is plainly visible in profile from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2020
Notable Recent Climbs (late 2017 and 2018)
SUMMER in New Zealand’s high alpine was highlighted by several periods of warm, calm weather, resulting in dry ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mysterium
MYSTERIUM.  Susan Froderberg. Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2018. Hardcover, 271 pages, $26 . “There are climbers who climb primarily to enter a deepening ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
My Life in Climbing
MY LIFE IN CLIMBING   Ueli Steck. Mountaineers Books, 2018. Paperback, 224 pages, $21.95 . My Life in Climbing is a terse and passionate ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
New Books in Brief – 2018
The Eight Mountains , by Paolo Cognetti (Atria Books, $24), a novel of a friendship in the mountains, was the grand-prize winner ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2019
Welcome to the Thunderdome
Editor's note : This story will be posted soon. In the meantime,  click here to download Scott Coldiron's mini-guide to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Charles Cole, 1955 – 2018
In 1975, as a sophomore engineering student at the University of Southern California, Charles Cole saw The Eiger Sanction, a Clint ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Huntley Ingalls, 1928 – 2018
“IN THE EARLY ’60s the speed limits were high and gasoline cheap. We thought nothing of running over to Moab ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Marc-André Leclerc, 1992 – 2018
FOR MOST EVERYONE who reads this—be it now or in the distant future—Marc-André Leclerc will be ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Jeff Lowe, 1950 – 2018
Editor’s Note : In 2017, Jeff Lowe received a Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, only the second American (after John ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Takphu 2018: British Expedition Climbs Seven Peaks
THE TAKPHU HIMAL in Nepal’s extreme far west is only 15 kilometers south of Gurla Mandhata (7,694 meters), which towers over ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Rangtik Valley, Chareze Ri North, East-Northeast Ridge
FOR ABOUT a month starting in mid-August 2018, our Italian group explored the Rangtik Valley, inspired by the extremely useful report ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2020
Khushrui Sar and Peak 6,099m, Attempts
Bas Visscher and friends from the Netherlands visited the Virjerab Glacier in August 2016, and though warm weather thwarted their attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2020
Alpine Roulette
IN MY MEMORY'S EYE, I can easily see the mistake. As I scampered up a granite wall on the Swiss ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2019
Lobuche East, East Face, The Golden Friends
During the 1990s, the French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (FFME) developed a training program for groups of elite young ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2020