Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Torssukatak Fjord, Å Dæven!; Peak 1,303m, Ægir Greenland, Cape Farewell

  Looking north from Peak 1,303m, showing the line of Å Dæven! Torssukatak Fjord and Pamiagdluk Island are to the right. In the middle distance on the left side of the fjord is the top of Maujit Qoqarsassia and its subsidiary summit, the Thumbn...

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| Published 2019 | Author Charlie Long


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Central Pillar, South Face, La Cura Greenland, Cape Farewell – Tasermiut Fjord

Nalumasortoq from the south-southwest, showing La Cura up the middle of the south face of the Central Pillar. For more routes on the various faces see AAJ 2004. Federica Mingolla Tasermiut is a paradise, not only for rock climbing but also be...

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| Published 2019 | Author Federica Mingolla


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Getu Valley, Great Arch, Valhalla China, Guizhou Province

Edu Marin dangles from the Great Arch, high above the Getu River. Half of Valhalla’s 14 pitches cross the roof, totaling 300 meters of climbing. Karel Downsbrough “I need to bolt a line there!” That was Edu Marin’s reaction after Dani Andrada...

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| Published 2019 | Author Karel Downsbrough


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
San Isidro Canyon, Gatos Wall, Separation Anxiety México, Nuevo León

San Isidro Canyon is located just west of El Salto, the limestone climbing paradise in northern Mexico. Five miles past the town of La Ciénega de González, the canyon boasts huge potential for multipitch routes. Over long weekends in September and...

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| Published 2019 | Author Clayton Reagan


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
El Salto, Ibiza Wall, The Ibiza Club Weapon México, Nuevo León

Sam Tucker working his way up a fin feature on the four pitch of the Ibiza Club Weapon (250m, 5.14b).  Edwin Teran  Google Maps shows an impressive blue line when displaying the route from Calgary, Alberta, to El Salto in La Ciénaga de Gonzál...

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| Published 2019 | Author Sam Tucker


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Huasteca, Cañón de la Sandía and Cañon de Guitarritas, New Routes Mexico, Nuevo León

The north-facing wall of Cañon de la Sandía, showing (1) Karma Bonfire (11 pitches, 5.12c) and (2) Vuelo de Fortuna (9 pitches, 5.13b). Jason Nelson At an elevation of 1,362m, Cañón de la Sandía is situated at the southeastern end of the larg...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alex Catlin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Gloria, Rezando México, Nuevo León, Sierra Madre Oriental

The south pillar of La Gloria (9,688 feet), west of El Salto, showing the 1,500-foot route Rezando (13 pitches, 5.12). Zach Clanton The first time I saw La Gloria, it was just a dreamy nameless pinnacle high above the ponderosa pine country ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Zach Clanton


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq, West Face, Qujanag Greenland, South Greenland

The 2018 Brazilian line Qujanag on the west face of Ulamertorssuaq. In the upper section the route more or less climbs the right edge of the great dihedral taken by Magic Tromblon, between that route and Moby Dick.  Marcos Vinicius Todero Aft...

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| Published 2018 | Author Marcos Vinicius Todero


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Stauning Alps, Bjørnsskulderfjell and Sugarlump Greenland, East Greenland

Looking northeast across the entrances of the three upper branches of the Gurreholm Dal. The 2014 first ascent of Peak 1,630m (labeled Mt. Doom by the 2018 expedition) followed the curving ridge in front of it, over the lower northern (left) top...

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| Published 2019 | Author Matthew Hay


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Schweizerland, Sermiligaaq Fjord, Various Ascents Greenland, East Greenland

Looking west from the mountain the 2019 team called Dromedary Peak. The conspicuous sharp summit on the ridge at the far side of the valley is Peak 1,569m. “Castle Peak,” climbed by the 2019 expedition, is the next main (pyramid-shaped) peak on ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Brian Jackson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Renland, Five First Ascents Greenland, East Greenland

The unclimbed east face of Northern Sun Spire (e). The upper section of A Grand Day Out, which climbs the west face, is marked. The mountain marked (a) is Peak 1,881m, climbed by the west ridge. Tom Harding In a year when the rapid melting of...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tom Harding


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Huasteca, Cañon de Guitarritas, La Pared del Ombligo del Mundo Mexico, Nuevo León

When I first came to La Huasteca to open the route Nayeri (500m, 12b, AAJ 2010) and later Pau (550m, 5.13b, AAJ 2016), both on the Tatewari Wall, I saw a beautiful black, north-facing wall across the valley. It was begging to be climbed. La Pared...

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| Published 2019 | Author Oriol Anglada


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Sumidero Canyon, Xibalbá Uprising México, Chiapas

Martin Siller on pitch 11 of Xibalbá Uprising (850m, 5.12a/b) in Cañon del Sumidero. Photo: Jan Hoebeeck For millions of years, the Grijalva River carved the Cañon del Sumidero, and it is now one of the most important tourist attractions ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Martin Siller and Carsten Thess


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Grosvenor, West Face, Tcheu c'te Panthère China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan

  Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m) from the northwest. (1) Tcheu c'te Panthère (2019). (2) Central Couloir (2010). (3) Black Wolves and Blue Poppies (2011). (4) Approximate location of past French and Slovenian attempts. (5) Southwest ridge (2003). Photo...

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| Published 2019 | Author Etienne Journet


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bogda V (5,216m), Northwest Face China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan, Bogda Ola Range

The 2019 route on the northwest face of Bogda V. The final difficult ridge to the top is not visible. Photo: Li Zongli Dili Xiati and Li Zongli made their first attempt on the northwest face of Bogda V in 2010. [Bogda V is here defined as the...

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| Published 2019 | Author Li Zongli


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Abi, West Face, New Route China, Sichuan / Qionglai Shan – Siguniang National Park

The west face of Abi in the northwest Siguniang Range. (1) Chen-Hua-Tong Route (2019). (2) Shivering (Yan-Zhao, 2010). Until 2019 there was only one route on the west face of Abi (5,694m): Shivering (5.7 M3 AI2, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). Chen Chuju...

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| Published 2019 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Abi, South Face and Southeast Ridge, Breakthrough China, Sichuan / Qionglai Shan / Siguniang National Park

Abi from the southeast. (1) West face and southwest ridge (Shivering, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). (2) Breakthrough (Wang-Xiang, 2019). (3) Graduation Exam (Liu, 2014). On the original ascent of Abi, in 2004, French climbers continued up this large snow ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Xia Zhongming


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chugimago, West Face, Via del Tronko and Tragedy Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

In mid-October, David Suela and Felipe "Tronko" Valverde from Spain climbed a hard new ice and mixed line on the west face of Chugimago (Chukyima Go, 6,258m), between the 2014 Hennesse-Kastelic line (the original route on the west face) and the 20...

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| Published 2019 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ama Dablam–Ombigaichen Ridge, Northeast Couloir Nepal, Mahalangur Himal, Khumbu Section

While acclimatizing before unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Nuptse and south face of Lhotse Shar in the spring, Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tozas (Spain) climbed a steep ice couloir on the northeast flank of Ama Dablam's southeast ridge. T...

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| Published 2019 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Goksøyra, West Face, Winter in Norway like Summer in Tatry and No Wet, No Fun; Snovasskjerdingan Centraltind, Southwest Face, Tordenruta; Grotterruta Norway, Møre og Romsdal

The west face of Goksøyra and the lines of (1) Midnattsol, (2) Winter in Norway like SummerT in Tatry, (3) Ice Forest, (4) Vertical Garden, and (5) No Wet, No Fun.  Kacper Telieki Goksøyra (1,330m, 62°38'33.31"N, 8°8'41.59"E) lies close to th...

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| Published 2019 | Author Kacper Tekieli