Camilla Reggio and I met on the Eagle Team of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and immediately became friends, connected by our huge passion for the mountains. We decided to plan our first expedition together and ended up in Kyrgyzstan, with the inte...
In July 2024, Anton Kashevnik and Ivan Temerev (both from Russia) completed a new route on the northwest face of Peak 4,810m. Graded Russian 6B (approx. ED+), the climb spans 1,300m of sustained technical difficulty, threading between the Sakharov...
The British quartet of Theo Elmer, Sam Harvie, Oliver Hill, and Patrick Hill trekked to the Ashat Valley from the Ak-su Valley after climbing several routes there, including the famed Perestroika Crack (800m, 5.12-) on Slesova Peak. After a five-d...
Japhy Dhungana and Rainbow Weinstock soloing the final ridge to the summit of the Miter after making the first ascent of The Pen is Miter than the Sword (600’, 5.10). Photo by Zach Lovell. From July 16 to 24, Japhy Dhungana, Rainbow Weins...
In June, Honz Mikhalek and I approached remote Mt. Hitchcock (13,186’) from Whitney Portal, hiking up and over the Sierra Crest to Guitar Lake basin, where we set up camp. The line of Shadow of a Doubt (8 pitches, 5.10) on Mt. Hitchcock. Pho...
For five packed seasons, from 2018 to 2022, my main mate, Chase Leary, and I established hard multipitch first ascents on some of the best climbing formations in the High Sierra. In the northern Sierra, we looted the Incredible Hulk, establishing ...
The east face of Mt. Hunter, showing the original Diamond Arête (yellow line, Donini-Tackle, 1985) and One Way Out (red line, Gardner-Hennessey-Smith, 2024). The 2024 climbers intended to continue straight up the rock wall to gain the upper arêt...
Cody Winckler climbing a sustained M7 crack to bypass a snow mushroom on the first day of his and Dane Steadman’s first attempt on In the Shadow of the Wall (1,200m, AI6 M7). Photo: Dane Steadman. The last 100m had been the wildest alpine cli...
Naseer Baig I (ca 6,100m, left) and II from the northeast with the first ascent routes. The climbers reached Naseer Baig II first (yellow line, mostly hidden), then traversed to the higher summit on the left after a bivouac in the col. Photo by ...
Genya Takenaka climbs through the First Rock Band on the Cassin Ridge, with the Kahiltna Peaks in the center background. Photo by Toranosuke Nagayama. The Cassin Ridge, the famed south buttress of Denali (Mt. McKinley), rises from Kahiltna No...
Mt. Russell from the southeast, rising above the Dall Glacier. (1) Drummond-Wilkinson (2017). (2) Hennessey-Westman (5,700’, 50° ice, 80°+ rime ice, 2024). (3) East face (Auble-Townsend, 1989). (4) Northeast ridge (Brown-Hauck-Jablonowski- Kensl...
The North Face Direct on Phole (6,652m, a.k.a. Pholesobi), seen from Merra Peak. The summit immediately left is Sobithongie. The summit of Jannu is out of picture to the left. Photo by Hidesuke Taneishi. The ridge extending west from Jannu cr...
The northeast face of Pandra. (1) Peine Plancher (2017). (2) A Piece of the Sun (2024). (3) Taniguchi-Wada attempt (2016). Photo by Suguru Takayanagi. “Mr. Hagiwara, what mountain is this?” The question was asked by Kei Taniguchi as she l...
The Sharphu Peaks from the east. (A) Sato Peak. (B) Sharphu III. (C) Sharphu V. (D) Sharphu I. (E) Sharphu II. (F) Sharphu VI. Photo by David Bacci. On October 30, a Korean expedition led by Jo Moon-yong, with three Sherpa climbers, claimed t...
Steep rock on the west face of Ama Dablam. Photo by Nikita Balabanov. In the autumn, Nikita Balabanov and I started a long-term project on Makalu, aiming to establish a new route in alpine style. Before departing for Nepal, we assessed the od...
Khangri Shar (6,792m, 28°1’10.86”N, 86°48’52.81”E), which lies on the Nepal-Tibet frontier between Pumori and Chombu, is a difficult peak with no recorded ascent. It was brought onto the permitted list in 2002 and has been attempted a handful of t...
Hungchi seen from the west, with the traverse (left to right) and bivouacs marked. The left skyline is the northwest ridge, and the summit on the left is Tharke Kang (6,710m), climbed in 2017 via its northwest ridge. The Japanese ascent of Hungc...
Kyajo Ri from the northeast. (1) Southeast ridge (5.9 AI3, Hobby-Kear, 2006). (2) Stealing Beauty (6b A3 M6, Belousov-Kopteva, 2013). (3) Butterfly Effect (2024). (4) Attempt on the northeast face (Fortune-Rowe, 2011). (5) Attempt ending on the ...
(A) Nangpai Gosum I. (B) Lungsampa. (C) Nangpai Gosum II. (D) Peak 7,488m. (1) Approximate line taken by the 2024 expedition to the plateau and up the south-southwest ridge of Cho Oyu. (2) The south-southwest pillar of Lungsampa, climbed many ti...
The north face of Langdak with Bande Organisée (left) and the original route, soloed by Andy Parkin in January 2011. Photo by Antoine Rolle. After travel complications caused by intense flooding in Nepal, Antoine Rolle, Mathieu Stephan, and I...