Khangri Shar (6,792m, 28°1’10.86”N, 86°48’52.81”E), which lies on the Nepal-Tibet frontier between Pumori and Chombu, is a difficult peak with no recorded ascent. It was brought onto the permitted list in 2002 and has been attempted a handful of times. The south face is steep and predominantly rocky. To the right, complex glacial terrain and a couloir lead to a 6,459m col that marks the lowest point on the ridge connecting Khangri Shar and Pumori. Climbers have also remarked on an elegant southeast spur rising directly to the summit—this would give a difficult route.

In 2003, a Japanese team tried the couloir but were stopped by an impassable crevasse at 6,300m. A British team in 2004 did not get above 6,100m due to complex ground. In 2018, a multi-national team climbed the right side of the south face and reached 6,660m, before constant rockfall forced them down. In the same year, an American-Swedish team decided the mountain was too dangerous and never set foot on it, while in 2023 a Swiss woman and two Sherpas climbed to 6,400m. Generally, these teams used fixed rope and were thwarted by dangerous conditions. However, in the fall of 1990, the couloir had been climbed to the col by a team of Americans who were attempting the west ridge of Pumori.

In April 2024, An Chi-young, who has completed many ascents in the Himalaya, and Woo Seok-ju spent three days climbing the southeast face to the 6,459m col. The two negotiated a brittle rocky face of about 500m and then complex glacial terrain with numerous crevasses, often climbing unroped. In late afternoon on April 14, they reached the col and camped. From there, they could see that the east ridge had a 200m section of rocky pinnacles followed by 800m of sharp corniced arête.

Unfortunately, Seok-ju was tired and unwell, so the two decided to descend to base camp for a rest. This took two days, and when Seok-ju’s condition worsened, they abandoned further attempts.   

           —Oh Young-hoon, Korea