The northeast face of Pandra. (1) Peine Plancher (2017). (2) A Piece of the Sun (2024). (3) Taniguchi-Wada attempt (2016). Photo by Suguru Takayanagi. “Mr. Hagiwara, what mountain is this?” The question was asked by Kei Taniguchi as she l...
The Sharphu Peaks from the east. (A) Sato Peak. (B) Sharphu III. (C) Sharphu V. (D) Sharphu I. (E) Sharphu II. (F) Sharphu VI. Photo by David Bacci. On October 30, a Korean expedition led by Jo Moon-yong, with three Sherpa climbers, claimed t...
Steep rock on the west face of Ama Dablam. Photo by Nikita Balabanov. In the autumn, Nikita Balabanov and I started a long-term project on Makalu, aiming to establish a new route in alpine style. Before departing for Nepal, we assessed the od...
Khangri Shar (6,792m, 28°1’10.86”N, 86°48’52.81”E), which lies on the Nepal-Tibet frontier between Pumori and Chombu, is a difficult peak with no recorded ascent. It was brought onto the permitted list in 2002 and has been attempted a handful of t...
Hungchi seen from the west, with the traverse (left to right) and bivouacs marked. The left skyline is the northwest ridge, and the summit on the left is Tharke Kang (6,710m), climbed in 2017 via its northwest ridge. The Japanese ascent of Hungc...
Kyajo Ri from the northeast. (1) Southeast ridge (5.9 AI3, Hobby-Kear, 2006). (2) Stealing Beauty (6b A3 M6, Belousov-Kopteva, 2013). (3) Butterfly Effect (2024). (4) Attempt on the northeast face (Fortune-Rowe, 2011). (5) Attempt ending on the ...
(A) Nangpai Gosum I. (B) Lungsampa. (C) Nangpai Gosum II. (D) Peak 7,488m. (1) Approximate line taken by the 2024 expedition to the plateau and up the south-southwest ridge of Cho Oyu. (2) The south-southwest pillar of Lungsampa, climbed many ti...
The north face of Langdak with Bande Organisée (left) and the original route, soloed by Andy Parkin in January 2011. Photo by Antoine Rolle. After travel complications caused by intense flooding in Nepal, Antoine Rolle, Mathieu Stephan, and I...
The northeast face of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). (1) Nick Bullock’s descent route in 2003. (2) Sunshine Spring Roll (Gephart–Perry Johnson, 2024). (3) Love and Hate (Bullock, 2003) to east ridge. (H) Nick Bullock’s high point on the east ridge afte...
Jack Morris on the second bivouac (ca 6,400m) on the northwest face of Linkhu Chuli II. Behind are smaller peaks of the southern Rolwaling. Photo by Nathan White. After arriving in the Rolwaling in October, Connor Holdsworth, Jack Morris, Dav...
The upper section of the northeast pillar of Chobutse. The climbers gained the final ridge, facing the camera, by the snow and ice slope left of the rocky triangle in lower right. Photo by Wadim Jabłoński. In October 2023, Maciej Kimel and I ...
Damien Nicodemi navigating a fun but grainy crack on the fourth pitch of Felsic High Road on Mt. Langley. Photo: Emma Kluge. On August 25, Emma Kluge and I climbed a new route on Mt. Langley (14,026’) in the southern Sierra. For a couple of y...
Looking up Arctic Lake Wall. In August, Daniel Dunn, Rett English, and I visited Arctic Lake Wall and climbed a new route up the center, aiming for the left side of the wall’s largest roofs. We took a line to the left of Arctic Beast (700’...
Jake Terry leading pitch seven of the East Rib (1,500’, 5.10a), with some of the route visible above. Photo: Ian McEleney. I had long heard about the classic 1972 East Pillar route on Mt. Barnard’s east peak (ca 13,680’): It has a reputation...
The upper stretches of Home Run (650’, 6 pitches, 5.12a) on the south face of Homers Nose. Photo: Brian Prince. In late May 2024, Neal Harder, Josef Maier, Brandon Thau, and I established the first free route on the south face of Homers N...
Spring Roll (1,000’, III/IV 5.10). Photo: Thomas Sicilian. In early August 2024, Jack Schlinkert and I set out from Mineral King to hike in to Spring Lake Wall, intending to climb one of the established routes. As we set up camp, our attenti...
On November 2, Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and I embarked on a nearly 30-mile approach from Monache Meadows to the Kern River region to scout some intriguing formations. We camped at the natural bridge feature near Lava Falls on Golden Tr...
The Sage (1,060’, 10 pitches, 5.10c), seen here from the south, follows a series of corners, ramps, and chimneys up the southern aspect of the Fortress. Photo by Sam Fearer. In early August, under a full summer sun, Dave Meyer and I set out t...
David Stone just below the summit of Oyster Peak during the first ascent of Mother of Pearl Ridge. Photo: Daniel Jeffcoach. In mid-August, David Stone and I hiked 20-plus miles from the Rancheria trailhead on the east side of Wishon Reservoir...
Map of domes climbed in 2023 and 2024 to the east of Courtright Reservoir. Dave Nettle The many granite domes surrounding Courtright Reservoir have long been known for excellent rock and challenging friction and edging routes in a spectacula...