I didn’t expect to feel so elated and relieved as I scrambled up the final stretch of Mt. Index’s North Norwegian Buttress (NNB) for the first time on July 28. Although plenty of work lay ahead—days of cleaning, trundling, and bolting—the element ...
On June 4, Michael Telstad and I ventured up the southwest face of Concord Tower in the Liberty Bell group. Our route, which is now perhaps the closest to the Blue Lake trailhead on the west side of Washington Pass, starts in the gully between Con...
In late August, Sam Boyce and I took a three-day weekend to climb a new route on the west face of Bonanza Peak’s southwest summit (9,320’). The Cascadian Route (V 5.10+) gains over 2,000’ in 16 pitches and 2,800’ of climbing. Our route is looker’...
Photo by Victoria Kohner-Flanagan Prayer for a Friend, a striking line on the southwest face of Prusik Peak, had been waiting for a free ascent for 20 years, ever since Fitz Cahall opened the route at 5.12- C1 in 2003, along with Becca Cahall...
On July 3, Alex Perz and I set out to climb a new route on the east face of Cutthroat Peak (8,050’), near Washington Pass. We hiked two miles from Highway 20, then cut right into the large basin to the east of the peak. Alex, having never climbed ...
With world-class alpine climbing right out the back door, my enduring curiosity about the Lake Ann Buttress struck friends as lunacy. The comments included “The rock is choss” and “Beckey said it’s repulsive.” But after staring up at the 1,000’ bu...
Sister Spire, a detached gray tower protruding from the south shoulder of Girls Mountain (6,134’), rises to a modest 5,580’. However, the sheer, triangular east face towers about 1,000’ above the Worthington Glacier, near Thompson Pass. Steep head...
On July 3, Matt Callahan made a solo ascent of Thiel Peak (5,910’; 58°41’49.0”N, 134°45’31.8”W). Callahan approached from the north end of the Juneau road system via the Davies Creek drainage, reached the saddle between Thiel and Dean Peak (Peak 5...
The Shark’s Tooth (ca 5,700’, 58°43’4.45”N, 134°45’32.11”W) is a mountain that continues to lure me. Matt Callahan and I made its first ascent via the southeast ridge in 2018, and Evan Hartung, Mike Miller, Ben Still, and I opened the south rib in...
The southeast ridge of Seahpo Peak is one of the longest continuous ridges in the continental United States. Sprouting out of the Cascadian jungle, it rises more than 4,000’ over 1.5 miles of horizontal travel before reaching the summit of 7,441’ ...
On April 23, Mikiko Fischel, our camp cook Lucrecia Chambi, and I camped by the shores of Laguna Huallatani in the central part of the southern Quimsa Cruz. The following day, Mikiko and I skied the glacier northeast of the lake to reach Coricampa...
On August 24, Gregg Beisly and I climbed a short new route up the northeast face of the northern summit of Pico Milluni (ca 5,450m), following a prominent corner system (4 pitches, New Zealand 21). However, the main goal of my visit to Bolivia was...
On July 4, 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I climbed a new route on the south face of Mururata (5,871m). [Although always traditionally called the south face, this broad snow/ice wall faces more southwest.] We started near Guias AGMTB, the A...
At the start of June 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I decided to try one of the mixed routes on the southwest face of Huallomen (5,463m). Looking at the face from Condoriri Base Camp, we immediately saw the potential for a new line. We lef...
In February 2023, Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall opened another route on the east face of La Popa. El Visitante (7 pitches, 5.13c) is now the hardest route on the wall. The duo dedicated six weeks to exploring the remote desert and establishing the ...
Our expedition, jointly organized by the Himalayan Club and Chakram Hikers, uncovered a hidden treasure of unclimbed peaks in the Thangman Lungpa, located in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram. In August, Sudeep Barve, Mo...
In July, two teams attempted unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Batura Muztagh, north of the Hunza Valley. As with previous expeditions, they followed a prominent ridge that extends to the south from the Batura Wall. This was the route followe...
In June, Thomas Franchini made a solo attempt on the north face of Trivor (7,728m) in the Hispar Muztagh. He approached up the Momhil Valley, where he had climbed the previous year (AAJ 2023). Unfortunately, in June and July 2023 the conditions we...
On the north face of Kjerag, the 1,100m wall rising above the south shore of the Lysefjord, Jon Egil Auestad and Jan Eivind Danielsen (Norway) completed a new route on September 9 and 10. The two had explored the upper route earlier in the summer,...
(A) Peak 282 and (B) Peak 283 (Tuki Sar, 5,850m). The ascent of Tuki Sar was near the right skyline. The climbers then traversed to Peak 281 (AK Sar), hidden behind Peak 282. Photo by Jacob Dyer. In August, after over a year of planning, Will...