Cerro Tres Negros, South Face Attempt, and Other Ascents

Argentina, Northern Patagonia, Turbio IV Valley
Author: The Editors. Climb Year: 2023. Publication Year: 2025.

In January 2023, an international team visited the Turbio IV Valley and made several ascents. John Collis, Mike Coyle, and Gareth Leah climbed most of a south-facing wall beneath Cerro Tres Negros, finding many flared and mostly unprotectable cracks. Out of time, they stopped about 100’ below the top, calling their incomplete route Soft Hammer (1,000’, 9 pitches, 5.11d A1). Meanwhile, Vianney Lhoumeau and Belén Prados put up a shorter route on the left side of the same formation, Devorame Otra Vez (150m, 7b+), and Jose Luis Hartman and various teammates added two pitches to an area classic, El Palito (580m, 6c+) on the north-facing Pared de La Oreja, which Hartman and friends had put up in 2008.    

            —Information from Gareth Leah and PeakPatagonia.com

Soft Hammer

30m, cracks, 5.8
60m, offwidth, 5.9
20m, shorty to roof, 5.10
35m, roof traverse to arching crack to large ledge, 5.11d.
30m, traverse ledge to the right
30m, broken cracks to face climbing, 5.11b
30m, traverse the wooded ledge, 5.8
25m, corner, 5.11c
25m, hard corner, aid
30m, hard corner, aid



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