Patrick Tirler on the crack system of pitch 12 (VII-) on the northwest arête of Jamyang Ri. Photo by Mortiz Sigmund. The Rangtik Tokpo is surrounded by towering granite walls that can be reached in one to three hours walk from base camp. Mori...
Click here to download the comprehensive index for the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), indexing the key place names and people covered in every edition of the AAJ from 1929 to 2024. Some readers may find it helpful to scan or browse subjects in thi...
With its vertical, anvil-like shape, Stetind (1,392m) rises straight out of the ocean, about 80km southwest of Narvik, and for sailors it’s a well-known landmark. In 2002, Stetind was selected as Norway’s national mountain. Stetind has a climbing ...
Greg Boswell starting up The Horns of Segla on the north face of Segla, with the first-pitch offwidth above him. Photo by Hamish Frost. My wife and I visited Senja during a van tour around Norway in the summer of 2022, and I took a photo of t...
Approaching advanced base camp for White Sapphire (6,040m), the sharp peak in the center. The team had hoped to climb the big wall facing the camera, but an early winter storm prompted them to switch to the northwest couloir, left of the wall. F...
During the first modern survey of the Tatsienlu Massif, led by Arnold Heim in the 1930s, nine major peaks were named. Prior to 2023, seven had been summited, leaving only Yipingfeng (5,800m, 30°1’3.73”N, 102°2’27.81”E) and neighboring Erpingfeng (...
Pik 4,430 meters in center left. (The summit was measured at 4,431 meters with a GPS watch.) The scree-filled approach past Pik Ortutyubek (3,895m; 3,850m in the photo) took a day and a half. The climbers descended the far side of Pik 4,430. Pho...
Looking east at Makalu (left) and Cholatse, showing (1) northwest ridge (1988), (2) Just One Solution (2023), (3) West Rib (2023), and (4) Southwest ridge (1982). Photo by Zdeněk Hák. Radoslav Groh and I planned to climb a new route on the we...
Jan Kreisinger, Jakub Vlček, and I travelled to Nepal in the post-monsoon season, planning to climb a new route on the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m). Kreisinger and Karel Roudnicky had already attempted our proposed line in 2021 but descen...
Tilman’s Col seen from Peak 6,102m on the east side of the upper Langtang Glacier. Left of the col stands Chumsundo (6,581m, the summit lying on the Tibetan side of the border), while to the right is part of the southwest ridge of Langtang Ri. P...
Also known as Pangri Goldumba, Goldum (6,632m, 28°19’44.10”N, 85°43’25.08”E) is situated toward the head of the Langtang Glacier, on the border with Tibet, directly opposite Xixabangma. The only known prior attempt took place in 1962, when Lord Pa...
Our five-member Basque expedition to the Suru and Shafat valleys had eyes for the north face of Shafat Fortress, but on arrival at base camp, those same eyes were immediately drawn to a beautiful rock spire. This peak of about 5,760m is situated o...
In August, a Young Alpinist Group supported by the Czech Mountaineering Association reached base camp at 4,300m in the Nangma Valley six days after leaving Prague. We then split into pairs to attempt different projects. Jakub Kácha and I made th...
In May, Italians Davide Limongi, Enrico Mosetti, and Giovanni Zaccaria visited the Nangma Valley, where their target was the shapely Drifika (6,447m). The trio identified a new route on the right side of the south face. The temperature was low as...
Martin Sieberer (Austria) and I waited many months for our Pakistan visas, and they only arrived three weeks before departure. By this time, we had given up on the idea of going to Pakistan and were planning a European trip. Our goal was unclimbe...
Part of the Kharut Group seen from K2 base camp to the southwest. (A) Kharut I. (B) Kharut II. (C) Peak 6,455m. (D) Sella Pass. (E) Kharut Pyramid. (1) is the 2023 route of ascent and (2) the descent route. Photo by Koldo Zubimendi. Vicente B...
The view across Lago General Carrera to Monte San Valentín, prominent in left center, with the north spur, in profile on the right, climbing about 3,000 meters to the northeast summit. The climbers traversed two kilometers to tag the highest poi...
Aleksei Sukharev low on the main wall of the southwest face of Voennyh Topografov, above the initial 300-meter ice slope. Photo by Alexander Parfyonov. Voennyh Topografov (Peak of Military Topographers, 6,873m) is located near the border betw...
Kei Narita and I saw a truly beautiful photo of the north face of Nevado Ausangate (6,384m), and we thought, “This is the perfect objective to climb alpine style.” I didn’t know why this magnificent wall was still unclimbed. Maybe the rock was too...
Diamonds on the Soles of the Shoes, the first ascent of the west face of Kabru South. To the right is the line attempted by Serbian climbers in 2004. The peak to the right again is Rathong (6,682m). Photo by Peter Hamor. The Kabru group lies ...