Aerial overview of the upper south fork of the Fool’s River in the Ragged Range, looking south. The 2019 team’s base camp is marked (BC), with lower flanks of Die Eisspitze to the left. (A) Unnamed Peak, likely unclimbed. (B) Plymouth Peak, cl...
The east face of Howse Peak (3,295m), showing the line followed by Auer, Lama, and Roskelley. Their route started on M16, then traversed left to a bowl above Life By the Drop, continuing to the top with difficult mixed climbing. During their d...
The line of the North Spur (600m, IV) on Mt. Phillips (3,246m) in the Canadian Rockies. The high peak behind the left skyline is Whitehorn. Photo by John Scurlock Simon Richardson and I branched out to new-for-us ground when, in July, we turn...
The line of Eye of the Storm (700m, M6 WI5) on the lower north face of Storm Mountain. Photo by Maarten van Haeren After much discussion over Thanksgiving dinner at Jim Elzinga’s house (and some primo beta from Ian Welsted), Maarten van Haere...
The Russian route Unfinished Symphony on the east face of Jannu. The climbers descended the French route, behind the ridge to the left. Photo by Dmitry Golovchenko Jannu (Kumbhakarna, 7,711m) has four established routes, but the east face ...
The 950m west face of Kyajo Ri and the new Russian line, Way of the Dragon. Photo by Dmitry Rybalchenko From October 2 to 9, Russian climbers Ivan Osipov, Dmitry Rybalchenko, Vitaly Shipilov, and Andrey Vasiliev, on their first trip to N...
The unclimbed north pillar of Chamlang rising to Point 7,240m. The main summit, and the 2019 Czech route on the northwest face, are out of picture to the right. Photo by: Benjamin Védrines Chamlang has a certain aestheticism. Its shape prod...
Brakk Na Brakk from base camp to the southwest. The first ascent route climbed to the large snowfield below steep walls on the left, then moved up and around to the right onto the south face, where a couloir led to the summit. Photo by Tomeu R...
Matyushin Nikolai on the southeast face of Tangra Tower, with peaks on the south side of Khane Valley behind. Photo by: Konstantin Markevich In mid-July, the Russian team of Anton Ivanov, Konstantin Markevich, Nikolai Matyushin, Marina Popo...
The north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). (1) Approximate line of the 2006 John Furneaux–Matt Maddaloni attempt (5.11 A1 WI6 M8). (2) The 2019 Knuutilla-Roberts attempt (5.11 A3 M7), reaching 5,930m. (3) Part of Checkmate (1,700m, UIAA VI A0 M...
The first bivouac on the French-Swiss route on the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau. Below is the Drolambo Glacier and in the distance Likhu Chuli. Photo by Symon Welfringer Climbing the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau was my idea, but it soon became...
Matteo Della Bordella on the 60m traverse that was the key to climbing the west face of Bhagirathi IV. Bhagirathi II is visible behind. Despite the many attempts to climb the west face of Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), it was lack of good informatio...
On February 13, I was descending Mt. Hood with my friend Miha Šumi, 35, when he lost his footing and fell several hundred feet, sustaining injuries that ended his life. Miha and I were part of a group of four climbers from the Portland area. We m...
Tiphaine Duperier descending the southeast ridge of Spantik, looking east southeast over the Basin Glacier to peaks on the northern side of the Chogolungma Glacier. Photo by Boris Langenstein As with every trip, our month and a half of holida...
Heading down the upper section of the northeast face of Gasherbrum VII. Circled is Francesco Cassardo, who is still on the ascent. Photo by Cala Cimenti After my partial ski descent of Nanga Parbat in early July (see story here), I traveled t...
Thalo Zom from the west-northwest. Photo by Andrea Bollati The Mountain Wilderness organization strives not only to preserve the natural environment of the world's mountains and deserts, but also to maintain the quality of the experience for ...
Gasherbrum II from the south showing the line of Honeymoon (1,935 meters of climbing above the bergschrund). The normal route up the peak follows the spur coming directly toward the camera, traverses right under the rocky summit pyramid, and cli...
Nik Berry on the "Changing Chimneys" of pitch four on the American Way on Pik Slesova. Photo by Eric Bissell Pik Slesova (4,240m, a.k.a. Russian Tower) is an El Cap–size granite tower in the Ak-su Valley. Its southern aspect is home to one of...
Pik 4,240m West seen from Hidden Big Peak (Pik 4,485m), with Pik Lenin (7,134m) in the background. Photo: Mark Aitken The Zaalaysky Range, which includes Peak Lenin (7,134m), forms a border between Kyrgyzstan in the north and Tajikistan to th...
Peak 6,410m from the west-southwest. The two Chinese attempting the first ascent appear to have fallen from the horizontal rocky section of ridge facing the camera, before the final summit pyramid. Photo by: Pakistan Army Aviation High Altitude...