Fall On Rock — Inadequate Belay
Canada, Alberta, Bow Valley, Grassi Lakes
On August 26, an experienced, 38-year-old, male climber was leading an unknown sport route on Gardener’s Wall at Grassi Lakes. The climber fell about 40 feet to the ground after the belayer lost control of the rope. During the fall, the climber hit a ledge and sustained multiple injuries, including fractures of the 12th thoracic vertebra and pelvis, a dislocated ankle, and an open fracture of the lower leg. He was heli-slung from the scene to emergency medical services. It was reported that he was expected to recover in six months.
ANALYSIS
In a newspaper story, the injured climber was quoted as saying, “I had clipped the last bolt and I could see the anchor, but I was getting tired because of the routes we did just before. I was about six feet from the anchor and realized I wouldn’t make it. I called to [the belayer] below me to say that I was going to fall, so she could be prepared to help stop the fall. She didn’t hear me. I started to free fall, pulling the rope off her hand. She tried to grab the rope with her free hand, but I was heavier and it was more force on her.” The story said the belayer suffered third-degree burns on one hand.
This pair had climbed together “often,” and it is not known what caused the belayer to lose control of the rope, but a belayer must be prepared to catch a fall at any moment. (Sources: Matt Mueller, public safety specialist, and Kamsack Times.)