A party of three was climbing Grillmair Chimneys, an eight-pitch 5.6 route on Yamnuska, on May 24. When the leader fell on pitch three, the rope dragged over a rock rib separating two gullies and the sheath was cut, exposing the core. The leader broke one arm during the fall. When rescuers arrived, the three climbers were asked via text to rappel one pitch to a ledge that was easier for rescue crews to access. A rescue team member was dropped off by helicopter, and the injured climber was belayed to the rescuer’s location and then heli-slung to the base.

ANALYSIS

Further details on the leader’s fall were not available. It can be assumed the leader placed inadequate protection, and that this lengthened his fall. A report suggested that rope drag might have been an issue, and perhaps long slings could have miti- gated both the drag and the sheath damage. (Matt Mueller, public safety specialist, Alberta Parks.)