View southeast from the summit of Okheree Sar, over the upper Shim Dur Glacier, to Shim Dur Sar and other unclimbed peaks of the Insgaiti Mountains. Photo by Justyna Markiewicz The Shim Dur (a.k.a. Shahim-i-Dur) Valley lies in the little-know...
Karsten Delap on the black ice of Frozen Diesel (HWI 6+). Photo by Austin Schmitz Karsten Delap and I spent the first two weeks of January 2019 ice climbing in the Indian Himalaya, just outside the village of Kaza in the Spiti Valley. The Sp...
Nico Gutiérrez on the delicate slab climbing of pitch five (5.10d) on Mango Trango, Base Camp Slabs, Trango Base Camp. Photo by Diego Saez Chileans Nico Gutiérrez, Sebastián Rojas, Diego Saez, and Diego Señoret spent July at Trango Base C...
Making full use of the remaining daylight, I traversed 40 meters to the left to a small snow-covered platform below the Exit Cracks. I looked up and was staggered to see not a cascade of ice but a large, completely vertical groove of polished rock...
The 800-meter route on the west face of Pic Mechta (Dream Peak, 2,590m). Photo: Evgeny Glazunov The South Muysky Ridge (also spelled Muiski) is a range of granite peaks in the Bauntovsky region of Buryatia. The highest point, Muysky Giant...
The northeast face of Zvezdniy. (1) Kosinusoyda (2015, 5B). (2) Temereva (2013, 6A). (3) Hvostenko (2001, 6A). (4) Balezin (1997, 5B). (5) Balezin (2001, 5B). (6) Zhigalov (2019, 6A). Photo by: Alexander Zhigalov In early December 2015, Nico...
Alexander Zaidler (July 15, 1931 - August 8, 2018) was an honorary member of the UIAA Youth Commission, and in August 2019, a team of alpine veterans led by Alexander Turtukov named a previously unclimbed rocky summit of 3,772m in the Central Cauc...
The southwest face of Dragon Tooth and the nine existing routes. Water Route (2019) is in yellow. Nearly all are in the Russian 5B category. Photo by Alexander Zhigalov There are now nine routes on the broad southwest face of Dragon Tooth (2,...
“True Peak 5,822m” (unclimbed) seen from high on the north lateral moraine of the South Lachama Glacier. Photo by Mike Fletcher Following a suggestion from Julian Freeman-Attwood, Drew Cook, Lorna Earl, Mike Fletcher, Nick King, Stephen Hump...
Moving toward the 6,100m col below the unclimbed north ridge of Drangnag Ri (6,757m, foreground left). In the background is Takargo Ri (6,771m), with part of Chobutse (6,686m) to the right. Photo by Will Rowland During November, a British ex...
In November 1996, Kili Sherpa and I climbed a line on the far left side of the west face of Parchamo (6,273m) to reach the shoulder on the north ridge at around 5,950m. From our camp at approximately 5,485m on the Drolambo (Drolambau) Glacier, we ...
Lugula from the southwest showing the partially climbed west ridge as the left skyline and the elegant unclimbed south ridge in the center. Photo by Sergio di Léo Lugula (6,899m) is a beautiful summit located on the Nepal-Tibet border bet...
The Czech line on the northwest face of Chamlang (7,321 meters). The climb and descent took seven nights away from base camp; the seventh bivy site is hidden. (H) marks the high point of the 2019 French attempt on Chamlang’s north pillar. The ph...
(A) Changi Tower. (B) K6 Main. (C) Link Sar (7,041m) from the southeast, showing the line of the 2019 ascent, advanced base camp, and bivouacs. Stocking ABC at 4,700 meters (1,000 meters above base camp) with weeks of supplies was a crucial stra...
The rounded summit of Peak 6,130m seen from the northwest on the high glacier below the south face of Langshisha Ri. The French team climbed the right skyline. Photo by Pierre Rizzardo Taking a permit for Langshisha Ri (6,412m), the Fren...
Unclimbed Gyaekochen (6,107m) from the northwest. Photo by Paolo Grobel Dolpo is considered a land for trekkers, not a destination for mountaineers. However, there are beautiful peaks: not necessarily all that high, but wild and remote. ...
Ardang (6,034m) from the north, showing the Canadian first ascent (with two camps) in red and the British attempt on the northeast ridge in blue. Photo by Emily Ward In late autumn, two teams attempted unclimbed Ardang (6,034m) in the Limi re...
Seen from the east: (A) Amotsang, (B) Jomson Peak, and (C) Margot Peak. The solo first ascent of Amotsang was by the south ridge, beyond the left skyline. Photo by Paulo Grobel Amotsang (6,393m, 28°50'5.76"N, 84°10'13.19"E) was brought onto t...
Our planned objective for 2019 was a new route on Tirich Mir, the highest peak in the Hindu Kush. However, by the time we arrived in Pakistan, Kazuya Hiraide and I still had not received a permit, and so we went to Gilgit to reconnoiter another ob...
The route line for Luka Lindič, Ines Papert, and Brette Harrington's The Sound of Silence (1,100m, M8 WI5) on the east face of Mt. Fay. The original route (1985) finished up and right from the snowfield at two-thirds height. Sans Blitz (2000) cl...