Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall And Head Impact Vermont, Upper West Bolton

At approximately 1 p.m. on May 28, a 20-year-old male was leading the sport climb Peachy Canoodle (5.9) at Upper West Bolton. My partner, Ben Mirkin, and I were climbing out of sight, but within earshot. The climber fell after clipping the third o...

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| Published 2020 | Author Kel Rossiter, IFMGA mountain guide


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice — Collapsed Ice Curtain Vermont, Bone Mountain

We were climbing at a remote location in the hills of Bolton, in search of new ice lines. Bone Mountain is an obscure cliff that takes about an hour and a half to reach in summer and about two hours of skinning in the winter. I was very familiar w...

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| Published 2020 | Author Anonymous Climber


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error — Rope Too Short, No Stopper Knot Utah, Moab Area, Lower Dakota Crag

My climbing partner and I went to the Dakota Crags in the La Sal Mountains on October 21. It was a beautiful day for climbing, and we wanted to begin on some easy routes. We looked at the guidebook as well as a phone app to determine which routes ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Kimberly Kelly


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — incorrect Anchor, Stuck Rappel Ropes Utah, Castle Valley, Castleton Tower, West Face

Just after sunset on December 4, two male climbers (ages 32 and 36) called 911 to report they were stranded halfway down 400-foot Castleton Tower because their rappel ropes had become stuck. Starting near sunrise, the pair had climbed the Kor-Inga...

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| Published 2020 | Author The Climbers, Grand County SAR and the Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall Before First Bolt — Fatigue Utah, Moab Area, Potash Road, Mars Wall

On June 23, my friend and I went to Mars Wall to do a few after-work pitches. I had taught her how to lead belay and taken some short practice falls with her a few weeks earlier. I (female, 28) had not been climbing very much in the months leading...

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| Published 2020 | Author Kate Weigel


Accident Reports ANAM
Hit By Falling Ice Near Base Of Climb Utah, Wasatch Range, Provo Canyon

Around 10:30 a.m. on January 12, a group of three climbers arrived at the base of the Stairway to Heaven (WI5) in Provo Canyon. The first pitch of this long climb is about 190 feet long, with a ledge system that bisects the pitch a bit less than h...

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| Published 2020 | Author Derek DeBruin


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Dislodged Block, Inadequate Protection Utah, Wasatch Range, Pfeifferhorn, North Ridge

On November 6, my partner (male, 25) and I, John Sigmon (32), set out to attempt the north ridge of Pfeifferhorn before a storm came in and potentially snowed out the route. It was both of our first times on this climb, and we were aware of report...

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| Published 2020 | Author John Sigman


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Falls — Cams Pulled Out Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Salt Lake County Search and Rescue (SLCOSAR) was called out in the afternoon of October 19 for an injured climber in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The very experienced climber (male, 59) had been leading the first pitch of Crescent Crack (5.7 trad) wh...

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| Published 2020 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue and climber account


Accident Reports ANAM
Belayer Hit By Rockfall — Saved By Borrowed Helmet Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate Cliffs

On August 7, Avery Guest (female, 20) was climbing with her partner for the day, Jake Bowles (21), at Hellgate Cliffs, a limestone area high in Little Cottonwood. It was Avery’s second time climbing/belaying outdoors. Jake is an experienced climbe...

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| Published 2020 | Author Avery Guest


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Unable to Pull Ropes Utah, Wasatch Range, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Salt Lake County Search and Rescue was called out at 12:30 a.m. on July 16 for a pair of climbers (father and son) who had been stranded while trying to descend from a multi-pitch route near Steort’s Ridge. Their rappel rope had gotten stuck, and ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue and and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Loose Rock Severs Rope Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Whipple Fork

On April 8, Wade Joseph Meade, 29, an experienced climber, and his partner, Tyler Grundstrom, who has been climbing about 10 years and is also an EMT, had decided to explore the Whipple Fork area, high in Big Cottonwood Canyon, for first-ascent po...

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| Published 2020 | Author Tyler Grundstrom, Rock and Ice, Salt Lake City Search and Rescue


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Vampire Peak, Southeast Face, Single and Searching New Zealand, Southern Alps

Step, step, swing. A serpent of white ice slithers down a bullying headwall above, forcefully compelling, drawing me: gravity’s inverse. Down here, though, the portal to the unknown is but scraps and slivers of ice. Engaging. Fatigue from last ni...

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| Published 2020 | Author Ruari Macfarlane


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock — Inadequate Belay, Inexperience Oregon, Smith Rocks State Park

On December 27, 2019, I took a long fall while attempting a sport climb at the southern tip of the Smith Rock Group, belayed by my father, who had no outdoor climbing experience. My parents were visiting me in Bend for the holidays, and we had gon...

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| Published 2020 | Author Tom Bussell


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Uneven Rope, Inadequate Backup Oregon, Smith Rocks State Park

A group of three was climbing Wherever I May Roam (5.9), a popular multi-pitch sport route, on the afternoon of August 8, and they decided to rappel before completing the climb. The team reportedly did not find the middle of their rope and tied a ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Deschutes County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow / Ice Oregon, Mt. Jefferson

On July 25, an experienced climber from Kennewick, Washington, slipped and fell to his death while traversing a glacier high on the slopes of 10,495-foot Mt. Jefferson (likely on the Whitewater Glacier route). David Freepons, 68, who had decades o...

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| Published 2020 | Author Jefferson County Sheriff's Office and news reports


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into Hidden Fumarole Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On December 4, a climber,  Caroline  Sundbaum, 32, of Portland, fell 15 feet into a fumarole on Mt. Hood, injuring her shoulder. Sundbaum, whose two climbing partners had continued up the mountain ahead of her, had sat on her pack to rest at the t...

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| Published 2020 | Author Clackamas County Sheriff's Office and Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall into Crevasse — Climbing Alone Oregon, Mt. Hood, Eliot Glacier

The body of Austin Mishler, 27, an experienced climber and wilderness guide, was found October 29 in a crevasse at about 9,400 feet on Mt. Hood’s north side. The Bend resident likely fell while soloing in technical terrain, and he ended up in a cr...

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| Published 2020 | Author Christopher Van Tilburg, Hood River Crag Rats and news reports


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice — Insufficient Footwear Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

At 9:42 a.m. on Sunday, July 26, the Clackamas County Sheriff’s Office was notified of an accident on Mt. Hood. A married couple (both in their early 30s) had fallen about 700 feet (initially reported as 1,000 feet) and had suffered injuries. Oth...

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| Published 2020 | Author Clackamas County Sheriff's Office and Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Skiing Fall into Fumarole Oregon, Mt Hood, South Side

On June 18, Scott Miller, a 25-year-old skier from Utah, missed a turn while descending from the summit and took a long fall that ended in a fumarole below. He had planned to ski Mt. Hood and Mt. Shasta en route to a job posting in Northern Califo...

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| Published 2020 | Author Scott Miller and Win Van Pelt


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche Oregon, Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir

On May 23 at approximately 12:30 p.m., search and rescue coordinators were notified of an injured climber who had been in an avalanche. In the early morning hours of May 23, Danielle (23) and Shelby (28) set out to climb the Leuthold Couloir, on t...

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| Published 2020 | Author Clackamas County Sheriff's Office and News Reports